Siddhesvara Dham, Namchi

My mother has come to see me on the occasion of Holi. In this holy day of Holi, we decided to go for pilgrimage to Chardham in Namchi, which is at a distance of circa 75 km from Gangtok. Namchi is the headquarters of the South Sikkim district. Namchi means Sky (Nam) High (Chi) in Bhutia. Namchi is situated at an altitude of 1,675 m (5,500 feet) above mean sea level.

We hired a cab and started from our hotel soon after our breakfast. We had tea on the way near a beautiful tea garden.

Tea Garden

Char Dham is a popular pilgrimage destination of Sikkim, which also has some interesting history connected to it. The principle deity here is Lord Shiva. It is believed that during the Kurukshetra war between the Kauravas and Pandavas, this place was where Arjuna worshipped Lord Shiva. It is also believed that Lord Shiva, pleased with Arjuna, appeared before him as a hunter and blessed him which helped Pandavas in winning the war.

In Hindu mythology, it is believed that Lord Shiva, after losing Sati in Agnikund, had gone into seclusion and became a hunter in the forests of Sikkim. There is also a famous Kirateshwar Mahadev Temple at Legship, in West Sikkim along the banks of River Rangeet.

Chardham is a unique pilgrim centre with a 108 feet tall statue of Lord Shiva , this pilgrim centre also has replicas of the twelve Jyotirlingas to offer one platform for Shiva devotees. The four most revered Dhams of the Hindus – Jagannath, Dwarika, Rameshawaram, Badrinath have been replicated in this fantastic complex to benefit the devotees visiting this place.

Chardham temples

The temple complex is divided into 4 parts – the statue of Lord Shiva along with 12 jyothirlingas, four dhams, a Sai Baba Mandir and the Kirateshwar Statue besides the Nandi bull.

Lord Kirateshwar

The world’s largest statue (~118 feet) of the Buddhist Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, the patron saint of Sikkim, is situated on the Samdruptse hill, opposite Namchi. It is also said that the Samdruptse hill is actually a Dormant Volcano. Myths say that the buddhist monks have been going on top of the hill and offering prayers to the volcano to keep it calm.

Guru Rinpoche

After visiting the temples, we returned back to Gangtok. It’s a nice trip and we enjoyed a lot.

Maha Kumbh Mela in Allahabad

Maha Kumbh mela is considered as the biggest festival of Hindus in the entire world. This was amply proved by observing a sea of more than 30 million Hindu devotees gathered at the confluence of 3 rivers (Triveni Sangam) at Allahabad (Prayagraj) on 10 February. The tithi (Auspicious day) of Mauni Amavasya began from 3.15 p.m. on 9 February. Since then, a sea of devotees had gathered on the 22 ghats (banks) of river Ganga and confluence to take a Holy bath.

People going for bath and also coming out of Kumbh mela

Mauni Amavasya is considered the holiest of the 56-day festival. Millions of Hindu holy men and pilgrims descend at the Kumbh mela site for a bracing plunge in Ganges to what they feel will wash away sins; many of them walked miles before they reached the river bank.

Devotees waiting for their free food being organized by many camps and bhandaras.

According to ancient religious scriptures, Mauni Amavasya is the day on which Manu sage appeared in this world, millions of years ago. It is believed to be the day when the universe was created. On this day, the Sun and the Moon enters into the Capricorn sign.

Millions going for bath

Practising austerities is believed to purify an individual’s existence and observing the vow of silence is apparently the simplest way to do so.

The day holds extreme religious importance and taking bath on this day in the holy waters is deemed significant and auspicious.

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A sadhu doing satsang for his followers and other visitors. There are many such satsang camps in the mela area

Besides the bath, meeting so many sages and sanyasis in one place is a great experience. One can listen to so many satsangs being organized at different camps and akharas.

Sadhus seeking bhiksha

An auspicious coincidence occurring after 147 years

On this Mauni Amavasya, the planets Shani (Saturn) and Rahu have come together. This is a rare occurrence and happened after the lapse of 147 years. During this period, the sun and the moon will travel together in their orbit. It last happened in 1865. Therefore, this period is considered as very beneficial for taking a bath, donation, and shraddha (Special rituals performed for the departed ancestors). This special occasion also caused the rush of devotees in an increased proportion.

One yogi sadhu practising his tapasya with one hand lifted upward!

I along with my wife, Jaya and son, Babai have come to Allahabad for taking bath in river Ganga on the auspicious occasion of Mauni Amabasya. We reached Allahabad by train via Kolkata on 6 February. It was Kumbh flavor everywhere – from Howrah station to the train journey. There were some women singing kirtans. Jaya also joined them briefly.

A Naga sanyasi with his followers

Our Guruji also reached Allahabad on the nights of 8 February from Varanasi for the bath with us. He had to walk around 16kms to reach our home due to stoppage of traffic in the city. In fact, we were privileged to have bath with our Guruji. We started our journey for the bath from the home of Jaya’s parents at 11.30am of 9 February. We joined the sea of humanity walking slowly towards the Triveni sangam. We reached the ghat at around 2.30am of 10 February. At first, Jaya, Boudi, Guttu and I took our dips with Guruji, while Babai & Prasanta was guarding the clothes. Then Guruji and I took them to the ghat for their bath. It was quite a cold night with temperature dropping below 8°C. But the sheer excitement of the event did not make us feel that the night and the water were so cold! We jumped into the river Ganga in search of “Amrit” at the Amrit Muhurt of Mauni Amabasya 10 February 2013.

Millions have assembled at the mela area for days

We walked back to home with huge mass of people around on every road and corner. People were coming in and moving out. The police was doing a good job there and I found them very polite, to my surprise! We reached home at around 5am.

Huge crowd on Mauni Amabasya day seen outside Gaudiya Math

It was a really out of the world, divine experience. It can just be experienced and not be defined by any logic or knowledge based explanation. Clearly, the world’s biggest religious gathering happens when faith meets the collective.

Har Har Gangay! Har Har Mahadev!

Journey to Allahabad for Kumbh mela

We have been planning for attending the Maha Kumbh Mela this year. It’s of great religious importance for the Hindus. Tens of millions of people from India and abroad attends this festival. The Maha Kumbh festival is held at Triveni Sangam, in Allahabad. It’s the confluence of three great rivers of India – Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati.

Luckily my 3rd semester finished on 31 January followed by 2-week holidays before commencement of the 4th semester. Dad also managed to get his 2-week holidays during the same period. Dad had planned and booked the journey more than 2 months before, in anticipation. It’s needed as there is a huge rush for the mela.

To avoid any travail during travel, Dad booked the tickets via Kolkata. We left Ranchi for Kolkata on 5 February by air and then for Allahabad by Poorva Express on the morning of 6 February 2013.

Our coach

We were booked in AC First class coach. We arrived at Howrah station in the morning at around 7am. There was quite a rush for people boarding the train. Also, there was a huge queue of people for boarding the general compartments as they did not manage to get the reservation.

Passengers queued up to board the general unreserved compartments

The train left on schedule. We took our break fasts that we carried with us. Also we ordered some light snacks from Railway pantry car. Poorva Express is one of the prestigious trains in India and is hence well served by pantry car. We were getting regular supply of drinks and foods inside the coach.

Our train stopped at Koderma station

The train was only stopping at important stations on the way. It was running on schedule. I bought a small Ludo game at Howrah railway station. We also played a few Ludo games to pass the time on the train.

I am playing Ludo with Mom

In another coach nearby some women were signing kirtans and bhajans. They were also going to Allahabad for Kumbh mela. Mom also joined them briefly. We were all in holy kumbh mood!

Mom joining the kirtan group singing “Hare Rama! Hare Krishna!”

The train reached Allahabad station with a small delay. My grandpa and cousin were at the platform to receive us.

Maha Kumbh Mela

Kumbh Mela is the greatest pilgrimage and festival in the Hindu religion. The event is a religious and cultural spectacle which occurs once in 12 years attracting participants from around the globe to take a dip in the holy waters of Ganga, Yamuna and the mystical Saraswati.

As per the legend, in the mythological times, during a waging war between the demigods and demons for the possession of elixir of eternal life, a few drops of it had fallen on to four places that are today known as Prayag, Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nasik. It is believed that these drops gave mystical powers to these places. It is to make oneself gain on those powers that Kumbh Mela has been celebrated in each of the four places since long as one can remember. The normal Kumbh Mela is held every 3 years, the Ardh (half) Kumbh Mela is held every six years at Haridwar and Allahabad (Prayag) while the Purna (complete) Kumbh mela takes place every twelve years, at four places Prayag (Allahabad), Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nashik, based on planetary movements. The Maha Kumbh Mela is celebrated at Prayag after 144 years (after 12 ‘Purna Kumbh Melas’).

Depending on what position the Sun, Moon, and Jupiter hold in that period in different zodiac signs, the venue for Kumbh Mela is decided. The next Maha Kumbh Mela is set to be held in the city of Allahabad (Prayag) in the year 2013. It will commence from 27 January 2013 and will continue till 25 February 2013.

The Kumbh Mela is a life changing experience where a person can fill the spiritual void he or she experiences in the humdrum of busy urban life. Kumbh Mela is a platform where ordinary men can interact with saints and priests and imbibe the knowledge possessed by the latter. It is an opportunity for everyone to dissolve the worldly stresses and flow in the cultural and religious effervescence of the festival. Visiting the Kumbh Mela to take a dip in the holy waters and cleaning the sins committed in a lifetime is, in fact, a very superficial motive to attend the Kumbh Mela.

Maha Kumbh Mela 2013 is speculated to be one of the biggest congregations in the history of civilization. Last Kumbh Mela witnessed the participation of 70 million people. After visiting Kumbh Mela in 1895, Mark Twain wrote:

It is wonderful, the power of a faith like that, that can make multitudes upon multitudes of the old and weak and the young and frail enter without hesitation or complaint upon such incredible journeys and endure the resultant miseries without repining. It is done in love, or it is done in fear; I do not know which it is. No matter what the impulse is, the act born of it is beyond imagination, marvelous to our kind of people, the cold whites.

I am also planning to attend the Maha Kumbh Mela with my wife and son this time in February 2013. Also, Jaya’s parents stay in the holy city of Allahabad. So, we can visit them while attending the Maha Kumbh Mela.

Shirdi Sai Baba temple

Shirdi Sai temple is a beautiful shrine that was built over the Samadhi of Shri Sai Baba. Shirdi is the famous temple of Shri Sai Baba. It was established in 1922 to carry out the services of Shri Sai Baba.

At age of 16 years Shri Saibaba arrived at the village of Shirdi in Ahmednagar district of Maharashtra and remained there till his death. Saibaba found shelter in Khandoba temple, where a villager Mahalsapathi in the temple addressed him as Sai or Saint Sai Baba.

Shri Saibaba of Shirdi lived between 1838 and 1918, whose real name, birthplace and date of birth are not known. An Indian spiritual guru and a fakir, Shri Shirdi Saibaba in Shirdi was regarded with great reverence by both Hindu and Muslim followers. Lord Sai lived in a mosque and after death his body was cremated in a temple.

Sri Shirdi Sai philosophy ingrained ‘Shraddha’ meaning faith and ‘Saburi’ meaning compassion. According to Lord Sai, Shraddha and Saburi were the supreme attributes to reach the state of godliness.

Yesterday evening, we walked from our hotel to the temple. It’s about 1 km in distance. We watched the aarti and prayed at the temple.

This morning, we walked down to the temple to offer our prayers. There was a big queue of devotees standing in great patience to have a glimpse of the Baba and to offer prayers at his feet. There is a nice system and everybody is following the discipline and peace at the temple. After a few hours of waiting, we also got our chance. The atmosphere there was tranquil and devotion, bhakti was in the air.

I liked the atmosphere, the temple, surroundings. Anybody can feel the presence of Baba there. I wish to visit Shirdi again. We will return tomorrow. I wish dad was also with us in this trip. He is coming home on Thursday, the 16th August, 2012.

Shani Shringanapur

Shringanapur is famous for the the shrine of Lord Shani. It is believed that Lord Shani is staying here since centuries.

Shingnapur is also famous for the fact that no house in the village has doors, only door frames. Despite this, no theft is reported in the village. Villagers never keep their valuables under lock and key. Villagers believe that the temple is a “jagrut devasthan” (lit. “alive temple”), meaning that the god here is very powerful. They believe that god Shani punishes anyone attempting theft. Such strong is the faith that there has not yet been an incident of theft as told by the local people. Also, a Kolkata based nationalized bank – UCO Bank has opened a branch here with no locks!

The shrine for Shani consists of a five and a half feet high black rock installed on an open-air platform, which symbolizes the god Shani. A Trishula (trident) is placed along the side of the image and a Nandi (bull) image is on the south side. In front are the small images of Shiva and Hanuman.

About 350 years ago, there was heavy rain in this area, and in the rain water this huge black slab (5 1/2 feet high and 1 1/2 feet wide) came floating. As the water flowed, the stone got stuck in the roots of a large berry tree. Once the water drained, some cattle grazers saw the stone, When they tried to dislodge it from the roots by prodding the stone, blood started oozing from it. The shocked cattle grazers ran away. That night Shanidev appeared in the dream of a villager and told him that he had decided to stay in that form in Shinganapur and that he could only be lifted out by those who were uncle and nephew in relation and carried in a bullock cart with black bullocks. When the villagers tried to get the stone idol out, they could not carry it any further and so decided to install it, where it stood.

My mother and I prayed at the Shani temple and then moved towards Shirdi. We had our lunch on our way.

Holy Rishikesh-Haridwar

Jaya was after me for long to take her to Rishikesh (Hrishikesh). She wanted to see the famous Ganga Aarti there. So, we planned this time to visit Hrishikesh during my holidays to India.

We reached New Delhi from Ranchi on Sunday and checked in at The Metropolitan Hotel, New Delhi. I had already booked a cab for the New Delhi-Hrishikesh-New Delhi trip through Carzonrent.

On Monday morning, we left for Hrishikesh from our hotel after taking breakfast. It was a Mahindra Xylo and the driver – Mr. Devender Singh is a nice guy. Hrishikesh is about 240km from New Delhi. The morning traffic in New Delhi took some time. Then we rushed towards Hrishikesh.

It was around 2pm in the afternoon, when we reached Roorkee. We stopped at a road side food joint – Green restaurant for our lunch. After lunch followed by tea, we again started our journey towards Hrishikesh. It is about 100km from here.

Ganga bridge at Haridwar with Lord Shiva overlooking

On the way, we passed by the famous Patanjali Ashram of Ramdev Baba, Kankhal & Haridwar. We crossed the holy river Ganga at Haridwar. It was a magnificent site.

Hrishikesh

We reached Hrishikesh and then to our hotel – The Great Ganga at around 4.00pm. It is quite a good hotel. Our room had a nice view of the holy river Ganga. We had a small balcony too to have unhindered view.

Our room with grand view

Located in the foothills of the Himalayas in northern India, it is known as ‘The Gateway to the Himalayas’. Hrishikesh is a name of Lord Vishnu that means ‘lord of the senses’. Rishikesh has been a part of the legendary ‘Kedarkhand’ (the present day Garhwal).

Legends state that Lord Rama did penance here for killing Ravana, the demon king of Lanka; and Lakshmana, his younger brother, crossed the river Ganga, at a point, where the present ‘Lakshman Jhula’ bridge stands today, using a jute rope bridge.

Lakshman Jhoola

The sacred river Ganga flows through Rishikesh. It is here that the river leaves the Shivalik mountains in the Himalayas and flows out into the plains of northern India.

After having a hot refreshing tea at the hotel, we decided to go to the river as we could not wait to miss the Ganga Aarti. We walked down towards the Ram Jhoola. It’s about 10 minute walk from our hotel. As it was getting close to the Aarti time, so we decided to cross the river by a boat.

Crossing Ganga river by boat from Muni-ki-reti to Swargashram

Ganga Aarti

After crossing the river, we rushed towards the Parmarth Niketan Ashram Ghat for the aarti.

Entrance to the ghat of Parmarth Niketan for Ganga Aarti

Instead of being performed by pandits, the Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan is organized and performed by ashram residents, particularly the children who are studying the Vedas there.

Havan before the aarti

The ceremony commences with the singing of bhajans (devotional songs), prayers, and a havan (a purifying and sacred ritual that takes place around a fire, with the offerings made to Agni, the fire god).

The lamps are lit and the aarti occurs as the final part of the ceremony.

The Ganga Aarti

The children sing along with the spiritual head of the ashram, in sweet, haunting voices.

A huge statue of Lord Shiva overlooks the proceedings.

It’s a nice divine experience with everybody participating in the bhajans and aarti. Many foreigners were also there joining the Hindu devotees.

Geeta Bhawan

After the aarti, we just walked around the Ashram and Geeta Bhavan. Then crossed the river walking over the Ram Jhoola bridge to reach the hotel.

Ram Jhoola

Neelkanth Mahadev

Next day, we planned to visit the famous Neelkanth temple. The temple is situated at a height of 1,330m and is located about 32km from Hrishikesh. The Temple is one of the most revered holy shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva and is a prominent Hindu pilgrimage site. It is surrounded by dense forests within Rajaji National Park and is adjacent to the mountain ranges of Nar-Narayan.

It is enveloped between the valleys of Manikoot, Brahmakoot and Vishnukoot and is located at the confluence of the rivers Pankaja and Madhumati.

According to Hindu mythology, the place where the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple currently stands is the sacred location where Lord Shiva consumed the poison Halahala that originated from the sea when Devas (Gods) and Asuras (Demons) churned the sea in order to obtain Amrit.

The poison emanated during the Samudramanthan (churning of ocean) made his throat blue in color. Thus, Lord Shiva is also known as Neelkanth, literally meaning The Blue Throated One.

We worshiped at the temple and then stopped at a food joint for some light refreshments.

After foods, we started our journey back through the forests of Rajaji National Park.

The water streams on the ways are carrying crystal clear water to the river. These are yet to be touched by the pollutions of the modern life.

Lakshman Jhoola

We then stopped near Swargashram. We walked down towards Lakshman Jhoola.

There is a multi-storied Shiva temple on the bank of the river Ganga just across the Lakshman Jhoola bridge.

Multi-storied Shiva temple near Lakshman Jhoola

We walked over the bridge to cross the river and then walked back enjoying the pristine beauty of the sacred river Ganga.

View from Lakshman Jhoola

It is quite hot afternoon. We opted for ‘shikanji’ a local made lemonade drink to quench thirst at Swargashram and for some cool respite in the hot afternoon.

A traditional Indian soda lemonade (Shikanji) vendor at Rishikesh (Uttarakhand) near Lakshman Jhoola bridge.

Then, we walked up to the car park. We started our journey towards Haridwar. It is about 25km distance through the Rajaji National Park.

Haridwar

We stopped at the Chandi devi temple on the way. It is dedicated to Goddess Chandi Devi in the holy city of Haridwar in the Uttarakhand state of India. The temple is situated atop the Neel Parvat on the Eastern summit of the Sivalik Hills, the southernmost mountain chain of the Himalayas. Chandi Devi Temple is highly revered by devotees as a Siddh Peetha which is a place of worship where desires get fulfilled.

As we are having short time and it is a hot afternoon, so we preferred to go up the hill by ropeway. The same ropeway company also runs the ropeway for Mansa Devi temple. So, we bought joint ticket for both the temples. We waited for our turn and then went up to the temple. We prayed at the temple and then returned back for going towards Har ki pauri in Haridwar, which is about 5 km from there.

It is a famous ghat on the banks of the Ganga in Haridwar. This revered place is the major landmark of the holy city of Haridwar. Literally, “Har” means “Lord Shiva” who is the god according to shaivite school of Hindu theology , “ki” means “of” and “pauri” means “steps”. Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu are believed to have visited the Brahmakund in Har ki Paudi in the Vedic times.

Near Har-ki-pauri

King Vikramaditya is said to have built it in 1st century BC in the memory of his brother, Bhatrihari who had come to meditate here on the bank of the Ganga. An area within Har ki Pauri, where the evening Ganga Aarti takes places and which is considered most sacred is known as Brahamakund. It is considered to be the spot where the drops of Amrit fell over from the sky, while being carried in a pitcher by the celestial bird, Garuda after the Samudramanthan.

Har ki pauri

We walked on the banks of Ganga at Har Ki Pauri. It was lovely walk with the river passing by from both the sides. Then went to Brahmakund and sprinkled water on our body. Then we went for tea at a nearby joint.

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Ganga Aarti at Brahmakund, Haridwar

After tea and samosa, we walked towards the starting point of ropeway to Mansa Devi temple.

Statue of Maa Ganga

The temple is located atop the Bilwa Parvat on the Sivalik range of Himalayas. It is dedicated to Mansa Devi. The temple is known for being the holy abode of Mansa, a form of Shakti and is said to have emerged from the mind of the sage Kashyapa. Mansa is regarded as the sister of the Nāga (serpent) Vasuki. The term Mansa means wish and it is believed that the goddess fulfils all the wishes of a sincere devotee. Mansa Devi Temple is also a Siddh Peetha, which are the places of worship where desires get fulfilled.

We reached at the base of the hill – the starting point of the ropeway to carry us up. Ufff, when we reached there, we found a huge crowd of about 500 pilgrims waiting for their turns on the ropeway.

We waited at the waiting hall for our turn. On reaching the temple, we prayed at the temple and also performed our evening prayers there as it was already quite dark by then. Then we started for returning back. Also, there was a big queue for getting down the ropeway!

A statue of an Indian sadhu at the hotel lobby

After getting down, we again headed for tea. Also, we had jalebis and samosas with it. Then we again started walking on the banks of the river in the evening towards the car park, with the waters gurgling down and cool breeze blowing. Lovely, memorable experience!

We reached the car and then straightaway headed for our hotel at Hrishikesh.

Tomorrow morning, we will return back to New Delhi. It is an excellent, but short pilgrimage for us and we enjoyed every bit of it. May be we will return here again!

Sab teertha bar-bar, Gangasagar ekbar!

Gangasagar is a charming tourist destination, which attracts both pilgrims and adventure lovers. Located on an island in the Sunderbans, Gangasagar offers the charms of an un-spoilt beach on the estuary of the river Ganges. Gangasagar has acres of silver sand and clear blue sky, and the calm sea to spend the time in tranquillity. Gangasagar is about 135 km away from Kolkata.

The pristine holy beach where the Ganga river meets Bay of Bengal

The island of Gangasagar is one of the most famous Hindu pilgrimage centers in India. Every year on Makar Sankranti (mid-January), pilgrims from all over India, gather at Gangasagar for a holy dip at the confluence of the river Ganga and the Bay of Bengal. On the occasion of Makar Sankranti, Gangasagar Mela is organized in this island, which is one of the biggest fairs in West Bengal. Gangasagar finds mention in many tales of Hindu mythology and in ancient Indian literature like the Ramayana, the Mahabharata.

Having jhalnuri while traveling by a steamer to reach the Sagardwip

To avoid the rush, my friend Rina, his son Soumya and I went to Gangasagar in December. We went there in a steamer after reaching the ferry point by car. We had some jhal-muri on the ferry.

On reaching Gangasagar, also known as Sagardwip, we went to the estuary where the holy Ganga River meets the sea – Bay of Bengal.

We dipped in the water and enjoyed at the beach.

After taking bath at Gangasagar with Rina and Somu

Then we went to the temple of Kapil muni. After worshiping at the temple we moved to return to our home by ferry and then by our car. It was a lovely trip and we enjoyed it a lot.

Kapil Muni temple

Now, I am planning to visit here again with my husband.