Book Markets of Baghdad and Kolkata

Books are ocean of knowledge, books are a companion for life. A famous quote by Charles William Eliot says —

Books are the quietest and most constant of friends; they are the most accessible and wisest of counsellors, and the most patient of teachers.


Statue of Al Mutanabbi on the bank of river Tigris

Name the book you’re looking for and it’s said that you will find it in one of the tens of bookstores lining this fa­mous cultural avenue in the heart of Baghdad. For many Iraqis, this street — named after Abu al-Tayyib Al-Mu­tanabbi, a 10th century poet from the Abbasid Caliphate period, who was regarded as one of the greatest poets in the Arabic language — of­fers a glimpse of hope that Iraq is still home to the Arab intellect.

This ancient street is referred to as the heart and soul of the Baghdad literary and intellectual community as it has been a refuge for writers of all faiths since at least the 10th century. The national library is about a mile away from Mutanabbi Street.

During the weekends, especial­ly on Fridays, Mutanabbi street throbs with pedestrians, includ­ing women and children.

The Archgate at Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad
The Archgate at Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad

Professor Muhsin al-Musawi of Columbia University says that when the Abbassid Caliphate took over Baghdad in the 8th century, the district surrounding Mutanabbi Street was already full of scribes’ markets and booksellers’ stalls and shops. There is an old Arab saying:

Cairo writes, Beirut publishes, Baghdad reads.

Poets and book readers throng Mutanabbi, a nar­row pedestrian street lined with bookstores, publishing and printing houses and even street vendors selling books on everything from the Marxist So­viet Union to cooking. The books are in Arabic language. You can hardly find a few books in English. Traditional teashops are also there and on side streets.

There is an Ottoman castle on Mutanabbi Street. The Ottoman Castle of Baghdad was built in the nineteenth century. The castle is known as “Qishla,” meaning fortified site, or more accurately, a military defense building. Having been half destroyed, the Iraqi government has progressed with the structure’s restoration. The initial planning concept incorporated restoration of the clock tower, now visible from many points within the old city. Later restoration efforts in the surrounding area included its gardens, antique markets and significant cultural events.

Book reading in the garden of the Ottoman castle a.k.a. Qisla

Garden at the Ottoman Castle

Old horse cart at Qisla, Baghdad
An old horse cart at the Ottoman castle (Qisla)
Antique center at Qisla, Baghdad
Antique market at Qisla
An artist drawing at a corner in the Qisla

Mutanabbi Street has always been a hotbed of dissent. Under the long leadership of Saddam Hussein, anti-government cells published and sold illegal copies of their tracts here under fake names.

shahbandar cafe
Century-old Shabandar Cafe at Mutanabbi Street in Baghdad

Shabandar Cafe was opened in 1917, at the beginning of the British occupation of Baghdad. From British rule to modern-day Iraq, The cafe has lived through the birth of a nation, the toppling of its monarchy, decades of domination by Saddam Hussein, the drama of the US-led invasion and the bloody chaos that followed.


College Street is an eminent center of Kolkata’s literary crowd. Its name derives from the presence of many colleges and educational institutions, including Presidency University (established in 1817), University of Calcutta (established in 1857), Medical College & Hospital (established in 1857), Sanskrit College (established in 1824). This book market is regarded as the Mecca of students who are either in search for a lost edition of an academic bestseller or want a new book that has just released. It’s hard to come out of the market empty-handed.


The College Street is most famous for its small and big bookstores, which gives it the nickname বই পাড়া (Boi Para) or “Neighbourhood of Books”. The street is also dotted with countless very small book kiosks which sell new and old books. An article in the journal Smithsonian described College Street as:

…a half-mile of bookshops and bookstalls spilling over onto the pavement, carrying first editions, pamphlets, paperbacks in every Indian language, with more than a fair smattering of books in and out of print from France, Germany, Russia and England.

According to Wikipedia, it is the largest second-hand book market in the world and largest book market in India and collectively boasts of a collection of almost any title ever sold at Kolkata.

Kolkata Boi-Para
Kolkata Boi Para

In 2007, College Street featured among the famous landmarks of India which have made it to Time Magazine’s “Best of Asia” list. The magazine has mentioned:

Thriving beside the rusted tram tracks of College Street in north Kolkata is the boi para, or “neighborhood of books,” offering the largest mass of secondhand volumes in Asia. Generations of Kolkata’s famous writers and revolutionaries have come of age amid its chaos.

Bookstalls at College Street in Kolkata
Bookstalls at College Street in Kolkata

The Indian Coffee House, popularly known as Coffee House, on the College Street is a favourite hang-out places among the students, youth, scholars, editors, artists and writers. It has been the rendezvous place of many illustrious and notable personalities like Rabindranath Tagore, Subhas Chandra Bose, Satyajit Ray, Manna Dey, Amartya Sen, Mrinal Sen, Shashi Kapoor, Aparna Sen, and the list goes on. Many talented geniuses have penned down pieces of lyrics, poems, story scripts or exchanged brimming ideas related to the world of art and culture in this cafeteria.


In 1883, the first session of the Indian National Conference was held at the prestigious Albert Hall of College Street that led to the founding of the Indian National Congress in Bombay in 1885. College Street has been the hub of Political meetings since 1930’s and is witness to many historical political congregations led by iconic Indian leaders like Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. College Street has also witnessed the beginning of the Naxalite Movement in West Bengal.

Bookstalls at College Street in Kolkata
Bookstalls at College Street in Kolkata

Although far apart, Mutanabbi Street and College Street have striking similarities — some crowd bookstalls on the street; others watch poets reciting to their friends as they sip tea in a coffeehouse.

20 thoughts on “Book Markets of Baghdad and Kolkata

  1. Far apart, but Mutanaabi and College street share similar vibes. The name ‘Baghdad’ somehow reminds me of Arabian Nights… ছোটবেলায় পড়া সেই আরব্য রজনীর গল্প আর সেই বাগ্‌দাদের খলিফা… 😀

    Liked by 1 person

    1. সেই শৈশবের শোনা কতো রূপকথা,
      উপকথা ভেবে যখন এলাম বাগদাদ শহরে
      মন যেন খুঁজছিল আলিবাবা, মর্জিনা,
      সিন্দবাদকে মানুষের ভিড়ে।
      হারুন রশিদের রাজসভা ধুলোয়ে মিশে গেছে,
      তার পরিবর্তে আছে সাদ্দামের মহল।
      সাদ্দাম তখন নেই, তার স্বৈরাচারী রাজত্ব শেষ,
      তার মহলে তখন মার্কিনের কবল।
      স্বপ্নে ঘেরা, কল্পনায় ভরা সেই বাগদাদ শহর
      আর নেই, তছনছ করে দিয়েছে উগ্রবাদী লস্কর।

      Liked by 1 person

  2. The rich Egyptian civilization is evident in the streets of Baghdad. Kolkata has always been a book paradise and we have a street called Avenue street here in Bengaluru that sells all kinds of books!!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Great to read a description of Baghdad that is so different from the common, conflict-driven images created in our minds. We often forget that Baghdad is also populated by ordinary people with ordinary dreams and ambitions like most of us.

    Liked by 1 person

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