In the heartlands of India, amidst the lush greenery and vibrant culture of its indigenous communities, lies a hidden gem of tradition and flavour – Handia. This indigenous brew, crafted by tribal artisans for centuries, holds a significant place in the cultural tapestry of India. Let’s delve into the rich history, unique brewing process, and cultural significance of Handia. The word ‘Handia’ probably owes its origin to Handi, a deep, wide-mouthed cooking vessel used in Indian cooking. 

Handia, also known as Hadia, is a traditional rice beer that traces its roots back thousands of years in the tribal regions of India, particularly in states like Odisha, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Bihar, and Madhya Pradesh. Its origins can be found in the rituals, festivals, and everyday life of tribal communities, where it holds both ceremonial and social significance.

Fermented foods and beverages have been very popular since ancient times all over the world. Historically the fermentation technique was used as a way of preserving foods and drinks long before the days of refrigeration. During the process of fermentation, microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast or fungi convert organic compounds — such as sugars and starch — into alcohol or acids.

Fermented milk products, alcoholic beverages from fruits and cereal grains, and leavened bread were very popular among the early civilisation in the Indus Valley and in the Middle East and later among the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. It is presumed that fermented foods probably originated during 7,000–8,000 BCE in the areas of the Indus Valley. It is evident from the annals of the Harappan civilisation (Vedic period) that people used different clay pots for preparing fermented foods and drinks.

Fermented food preparation, as mentioned in literary texts, is more than 3,000 years old in India. The Rigveda (ca. 1,500 BCE) shows that fermentation technology took its first step in connection with the preparation of Soma juice (alcoholic beverage). There is also another drink, known as sura (wine/beer), prepared by fermentation of boiled rice/barley. It is known from different sources that during the post-Vedic period (600 BCE to 100 CE) many beverages like medaka (spiced rice beer), prasanna (spiced barley or wheat beer), asava (sugarcane beer), etc., were some of the most popular drinks.

Alcohol has played a central role in almost all human cultures since Neolithic times (circa 4000 BCE). All societies, without exception, make use of intoxicating substances, alcohol being by far the most common. Handia is accepted as a most sacred drink in the Munda and Santhal tribes. Both Munda and Santhal claim to be the inventor of it.

The origin of the traditional drink Handia among Santals is very much connected with their creation story. It is the most sacred and indispensable drink of the Santals. Santals believe in one “supreme being” whom they call Thạkur Jiu (Life Giver) or Marangburu (Great Mountain) who is considered to be the “supreme” among all the “religious beings”.  According to a myth, the Supreme deity, ‘Maran Buru’, taught the first human pair of Pilchu Haram and Pilchu Budhi to prepare Handia. Maran Buru brought the Soma to be with the man; the first parents then made a bowl of green leaves and offered a drink to ‘Maran Buru’. It is, therefore, a very sacred drink to them.

Rice beer is probably the oldest manufactured drink in the world. Many ancient civilizations have Gods assigned specifically to the task of brewing beer. Over the years, beer has grown into types and styles; Indian rice beer is one such type of beer. It is known as saki in Japan, lao-chao in China, tape ketan in Indonesia, khao-mak in Thailand.

Crafting Handia is an art passed down through generations. The process involves utilizing ranu tablets, which are essentially composed of a blend of approximately 20-25 herbs, like turmeric, ginger, and various medicinal roots and function as a fermenting agent. These ranu tablets aid in the production of various other beverages too.

Afterwards, the ranu tablets are combined with boiled rice and allowed to ferment in earthen pots. Typically, the beverage is ready within a week. It is served chilled and possesses a lower alcohol content compared to other Indian country liquors.

The fermentation process is crucial as it not only imbues Handia with its characteristic tangy taste but also allows for the development of beneficial probiotics, making it not just a beverage but also a functional food with potential health benefits.

It’s important to maintain cleanliness and hygiene throughout the preparation process to ensure the quality and safety of the Handia.

Fermented foods are rich in probiotic bacteria so by consuming fermented foods you are adding beneficial bacteria and enzymes to your overall intestinal flora, increasing the health of your gut microbiome and digestive system and enhancing the immune system.

The health-beneficial effects of fermented food were first advocated as far back as 76 CE by the Roman historian Pliny, who mentioned the use of fermented milk for treating gastrointestinal infections.

On the Indian subcontinent, fermented foods and beverages are an integral part of cultural heritage, even today. These have been developed throughout the history of human civilisation for sustained nutrition and food preservation. The consumption of foods and drinks that have undergone fermentation contain health benefits that stretch beyond food preservation. The transformation of sugars and starches enhances the natural, beneficial bacteria in food.

Handia is deeply ingrained in the cultural fabric of tribal communities. It serves as an integral part of various rituals, festivals, and social gatherings. In many tribal societies, offering Handia to guests is a gesture of hospitality and goodwill.

Handia is often prepared for festivals, weddings, rituals and other occasions, and is enjoyed by people of all ages and genders. It is usually consumed during festivals, ceremonies, and social gatherings.

Tribal women play a key role in the preparation and sale of Handia. It also generates significant income for the household. By promoting Handia preparation and sale, the tribal women have been able to make economic gains.

Handia has a milky white colour and a sour taste. It can be consumed fresh or stored for later use. It is usually served in small bamboo cups or bowls. It can be mixed with water, sugar, or fruit juice to adjust the taste and alcohol content.

Handia’s appeal lies not only in its unique flavour but also in its cultural heritage and connection to the land. As consumers seek authenticity and a deeper connection to the foods and beverages they consume, Handia stands out as a symbol of cultural pride and culinary diversity.

Handia is more than just a beverage; it’s a testament to the rich cultural heritage and traditions of India’s tribal communities. Its journey from ancient rituals to modern tables reflects a story of resilience, adaptation, and preservation.

Handia is a symbol of hospitality, friendship, and celebration. It is also a source of income for many rural households who sell Handia in local markets or roadside stalls. Handia is a drink that connects people with their roots and their history.

In a rapidly changing world, where traditional knowledge often faces the threat of being forgotten, Handia serves as a reminder of the importance of preserving indigenous practices and celebrating cultural diversity.