The Beginning of the Journey

Our journey began in the bustling city of Ranchi, as my wife, T, and I prepared to board the Hyderabad-Raxaul Express. Anticipation and excitement filled the air as we arrived at the Ranchi Railway Station at 10:30 PM, ready to embark on our adventure. However, our excitement was met with the news of a delay—our train was running 2 hours and 45 minutes late and was now scheduled to arrive around 1:30 AM. Undeterred, we decided to return home for a brief rest.

My parents, ever supportive, drove us back to the station when the time came. The platform was still alive with the energy of travellers, despite the late hour. As the train finally arrived, we boarded the 2AC coach. The compartment was comfortable enough, though we were slightly disappointed by the condition of the toilet. Nevertheless, the prospect of our journey overshadowed this minor inconvenience.

The Journey to Raxaul

The train chugged along the tracks, and despite the initial delay, it managed to make up some time along the way. We arrived in Raxaul with just a 15-minute delay, a small victory considering the earlier setback. I was travelling to Raxaul for a one-week training program on Family Medicine being conducted by the Christian Medical College, Vellore at the Duncan Hospital there.

Arrival at Raxaul and the Journey to Birgunj

The institution advised me to book accommodations in the neighbouring town of Birgunj, across the border, as Raxaul lacks good hotels. Consequently, we booked our stay at the Annapurna Hotel in Birgunj, Nepal.

Birgunj is a metropolitan city located in the Parsa District of Madhes Pradesh in southern Nepal, 135 km south of the capital, Kathmandu. Bordering the Indian state of Bihar to the north, it is connected to Raxaul. Known as the “Gateway of Nepal” due to its role as an entry point from Bihar, India, Birgunj is also referred to as the “Commercial Capital of Nepal.” Its economic significance is substantial, as the majority of Nepal’s trade with India passes through Birgunj and Raxaul. The city is linked to Kathmandu via the Tribhuvan Highway.

As we exited the Raxaul station, the lively chaos of the border town greeted us. The narrow, crowded streets were filled with a mixture of vehicles and pedestrians. We quickly learned that autorickshaws and totos could only take us to the international border; to reach Birgunj, we needed to hire a horse-drawn carriage, known locally as a tanga. Tangas have historically been the mode of transport for the Madheshi people. Today it survives as a popular vehicle between Birgunj and its sister city Raxaul.

The tanga ride was a unique experience, winding through the labyrinthine streets of Raxaul. The rhythmic clatter of the horse’s hooves created a soothing backdrop as we navigated the town. Soon, we reached the Indo-Nepal gate, marking our first visit to Nepal.

The Shankaracharya Gate

The Indo-Nepal Gate, also known as the Shankaracharya Gate, was constructed in the early 20th century during the reign of King Prithvi Narayan Shah of Nepal. This gate symbolizes the close cultural and economic ties between Nepal and India, with Birgunj historically serving as a crucial trading and transit point between the two nations. Designed in a blend of Mughal and Neoclassical architectural styles, the gate reflects the multicultural influences of the region.

Strategically located at the Nepal-India border, the gate has long functioned as a major checkpoint and entry point for travelers and goods moving between the countries. Over the years, it has witnessed numerous significant historical events and ceremonies, including political rallies, cultural festivals, and state visits by leaders from both Nepal and India.

In recent years, the Shankaracharya Gate has undergone renovations and conservation efforts to preserve its historical significance and architectural heritage. Today, it stands as an important landmark, symbolizing the deep-rooted connections between Nepal and India in the Birgunj region.

The Ride to Nepal

It was our first visit to Nepal, and the thrill of crossing the border added a layer of excitement to our journey. The tanga driver expertly navigated the labyrinthine streets, and soon we found ourselves in Birgunj.

Arrival at Annapurna Hotel

Our destination was the Annapurna Hotel, a place my father had thoughtfully booked for us in advance. By the time we arrived, it was already evening. Exhausted from the 17-hour journey, we decided to rest for the night and explore Birgunj the next day. The hotel room was a welcome sight, offering a much-needed respite from our travels.

Concluding Thoughts

Our journey from Ranchi to Raxaul and onward to Birgunj was a mix of delays, unexpected challenges, and new experiences. Despite the hiccups along the way, the adventure of travelling through a new country and the anticipation of my training at the Duncan Hospital in Raxaul made it all worthwhile. As we settled into our hotel room, we looked forward to discovering what Birgunj had to offer and making the most of our time in this border town.