The Kurdistan Region of Iraq refers to the Kurdish-populated part of northern Iraq. It is considered one of the four parts of “Kurdistan” in West Asia, which also includes parts of southeastern Turkey, northern Syria, and northwestern Iran. The concept of Kurdistan represents the historical and cultural homeland of the Kurdish people, who are an ethnic group with their own language and distinct cultural identity.
On a chilly winter day in Erbil, nothing warms the soul like a smoky, juicy kebab. From the legendary Yasin’s beneath the Citadel to Farooq Jaafar’s famed skewers on Iskan Street, Erbil’s kebabs are culinary ritual and cultural heritage. Wrapped in fresh naan, topped with sumac onions, and sipped with chilled Mastaw, each bite is a taste of Kurdish warmth.
In the heart of Erbil, where modern life hums around an ancient hill, history still breathes through stone. The Erbil Citadel — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places — rises above the city like a memory that refuses to fade. Beneath it, the Old Bazaar buzzes with life: men sip tea and smoke shisha under the autumn sun, children feed pigeons, and the aroma of kebabs drifts through narrow lanes once walked by traders and conquerors alike. Watching people enjoy these simple pleasures, time seems to dissolve — and you realize that in Erbil, the past and present are forever entwined.
The experience of dining on Iskender Döner at BayDöner in Erbil's Family Mall transcended mere consumption; it became a vivid memory. This iconic Turkish dish, rich in flavors and prepared traditionally, transported me through culinary history while also reflecting Erbil's diverse culture, blending Turkish culinary heritage with local life.
At Erbil's Grand Majidi Mall, I met up with my friend Arbab for a memorable dinner at Mandi Al-Hattab. The cosy atmosphere of the restaurant provided the perfect setting for enjoying a traditional Mandi meal. The dish, known for its deep flavours and cultural importance, offered both delight and a meaningful link to heritage, making the experience truly memorable.
Erbil is a city that combines a rich historical background with contemporary living, exemplified by Qazuan Restaurant, famous for its genuine Kurdish dishes. An impromptu lunch with coworkers turned into a delightful culinary journey featuring tasty meals and a welcoming environment. The traditional ambience added to the experience, enabling a stronger cultural connection. After a short wait, the food exceeded expectations, reflecting Kurdish hospitality. The gathering promoted friendship, creating lasting memories and emphasising the strong ties that food fosters within cultures.
In Iraq, I discovered that tea is far more than a mere beverage; it's a profound ritual, a sanctuary, and a quiet testament to resilience, much as it is in India. From the timeless charm of Baghdad’s Shabandar Café to the sun-drenched benches near Erbil’s citadel, each sip of tea tells a story. It's a reminder that many of life's deepest lessons, like a perfectly steeped glass, are infused slowly, revealing their wisdom gradually.
In Erbil, I enjoyed Koshary, Egypt's national dish, blending lentils, rice, pasta, chickpeas, and spicy tomato sauce, with roots tracing back to India's khichri. This iconic vegetarian dish reflects cultural fusion and has become a staple in diverse culinary landscapes. Its affordability, filling nature, and universal appeal make it popular among locals and visitors, symbolizing food's power to connect cultures through shared heritage.
Sibaram Das reflects on his visit to Lalish, the holiest site of the Yazidis in Iraq, exploring the interconnectedness of history, migration, and spirituality. He draws parallels between Yazidism and Hinduism, observing shared rituals and beliefs, such as reverence for sacred elements and the cyclical nature of time. His journey raises questions about the origins of faith and the universality of human experiences, leaving him with thoughts on migration and resilience.
On June 5, 2025, I visited Erbil's Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with anticipation to explore its rich history. However, upon arrival, I learned the Citadel was closed for renovations. Despite the disappointment, I found joy capturing views of the Citadel from outside, enjoying the nearby bustling Qaysari Bazaar, and sharing a moment with a small bird at a café. I left with a promise to return and explore its ancient treasures.
Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region in Iraq, boasts a rich culinary scene, particularly at Kebab Farouq Jaafar in Iskan, renowned for its delectable kebabs. During a memorable lunch with colleagues, a variety of grilled meats and traditional dishes showcased the restaurant's authenticity. The meal culminated with fragrant Iraqi chai, reinforcing the joy of shared experiences amidst vibrant local culture, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts.
