Between Drones & Dawn: Life in Erbil

Erbil currently experiences an unusual, heavy calm. You get used to sleeping through the distant sounds of drones, but find true comfort in the morning commute. Observing the city begin its day with 'business as usual' is the daily habit that keeps us steady. While the skies above remain watchful and weary, the city below refuses to blink. Every car on the road and every open shop door is a small, steady pulse of resilience. It is a daily triumph of routine over chaos; a reminder that as long as the wheels are turning, the spirit of the people remains unbroken. Beneath the tension, the simple act of starting the day is our most powerful proof of faith.

The Hot Kebabs of Erbil: A Winter Ode from Kurdistan’s Beating Heart

On a chilly winter day in Erbil, nothing warms the soul like a smoky, juicy kebab. From the legendary Yasin’s beneath the Citadel to Farooq Jaafar’s famed skewers on Iskan Street, Erbil’s kebabs are culinary ritual and cultural heritage. Wrapped in fresh naan, topped with sumac onions, and sipped with chilled Mastaw, each bite is a taste of Kurdish warmth.

Under the Citadel’s Shadow: Savouring Erbil’s Soul

In the heart of Erbil, where modern life hums around an ancient hill, history still breathes through stone. The Erbil Citadel — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places — rises above the city like a memory that refuses to fade. Beneath it, the Old Bazaar buzzes with life: men sip tea and smoke shisha under the autumn sun, children feed pigeons, and the aroma of kebabs drifts through narrow lanes once walked by traders and conquerors alike. Watching people enjoy these simple pleasures, time seems to dissolve — and you realize that in Erbil, the past and present are forever entwined.

Qazuan Restaurant: A Kurdish Dastarkhan in the Heart of Erbil

Erbil is a city that combines a rich historical background with contemporary living, exemplified by Qazuan Restaurant, famous for its genuine Kurdish dishes. An impromptu lunch with coworkers turned into a delightful culinary journey featuring tasty meals and a welcoming environment. The traditional ambience added to the experience, enabling a stronger cultural connection. After a short wait, the food exceeded expectations, reflecting Kurdish hospitality. The gathering promoted friendship, creating lasting memories and emphasising the strong ties that food fosters within cultures.

Of Steam, Soul, & Sips: My Journey Through Iraq’s Chai Culture

In Iraq, I discovered that tea is far more than a mere beverage; it's a profound ritual, a sanctuary, and a quiet testament to resilience, much as it is in India. From the timeless charm of Baghdad’s Shabandar Café to the sun-drenched benches near Erbil’s citadel, each sip of tea tells a story. It's a reminder that many of life's deepest lessons, like a perfectly steeped glass, are infused slowly, revealing their wisdom gradually.

From the Ganges to the Nile: Tracing Koshary’s Indian Roots to Erbil’s Culinary Scene

In Erbil, I enjoyed Koshary, Egypt's national dish, blending lentils, rice, pasta, chickpeas, and spicy tomato sauce, with roots tracing back to India's khichri. This iconic vegetarian dish reflects cultural fusion and has become a staple in diverse culinary landscapes. Its affordability, filling nature, and universal appeal make it popular among locals and visitors, symbolizing food's power to connect cultures through shared heritage.

Tracing the Echoes of History: Yazidism & Indian Spirituality

Sibaram Das reflects on his visit to Lalish, the holiest site of the Yazidis in Iraq, exploring the interconnectedness of history, migration, and spirituality. He draws parallels between Yazidism and Hinduism, observing shared rituals and beliefs, such as reverence for sacred elements and the cyclical nature of time. His journey raises questions about the origins of faith and the universality of human experiences, leaving him with thoughts on migration and resilience.