Under the Citadel’s Shadow: Savouring Erbil’s Soul

In the heart of Erbil, where modern life hums around an ancient hill, history still breathes through stone. The Erbil Citadel — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places — rises above the city like a memory that refuses to fade. Beneath it, the Old Bazaar buzzes with life: men sip tea and smoke shisha under the autumn sun, children feed pigeons, and the aroma of kebabs drifts through narrow lanes once walked by traders and conquerors alike. Watching people enjoy these simple pleasures, time seems to dissolve — and you realize that in Erbil, the past and present are forever entwined.

Of Steam, Soul, & Sips: My Journey Through Iraq’s Chai Culture

In Iraq, I discovered that tea is far more than a mere beverage; it's a profound ritual, a sanctuary, and a quiet testament to resilience, much as it is in India. From the timeless charm of Baghdad’s Shabandar Café to the sun-drenched benches near Erbil’s citadel, each sip of tea tells a story. It's a reminder that many of life's deepest lessons, like a perfectly steeped glass, are infused slowly, revealing their wisdom gradually.

A Tea Lover’s Journey at Machko Chai Khana in Erbil

Erbil, the capital of Kurdistan, hosts the Erbil Citadel, one of the oldest inhabited sites globally. Inside its ancient walls, Machko Chai Khana tea house offers a cozy atmosphere and traditional Iraqi chai, rich in spices and history. The tea house embodies Iraqi hospitality, fostering connections among locals and travelers. A visit to Machko is essential for those seeking cultural and culinary experiences in Erbil.

Shahbandar Café & the Soul of Baghdad

Today, we explored Baghdad's historic streets, focusing on Rashid and Mutanabbi streets. Despite the extreme heat, we visited the Shahbandar Café, known for its rich history and traditional Baghdadi lemon tea. The café has been pivotal to Baghdad's intellectual life since 1917, serving as a hub for discussions among poets and thinkers. Shahbandar symbolizes the city's resilience and offers visitors a glimpse into Baghdad's vibrant culture and history.