As the joyous celebrations of Diwali and Kali Puja echoed through the air, my mother and I embarked on a spiritual expedition to Maihar, a town nestled in the heart of India’s spiritual tapestry. Our destination held a profound significance—the revered Sharda Devi Temple perched atop the Trikuta hill, awaited our humble presence. Maihar is known for the temple of revered mother goddess Sharda (ca. 502 CE), situated in the Satna district of Madhya Pradesh. This temple is known for the 1063 steps to the top.

Legend intertwines seamlessly with reality in Maihar, where tales of valour and divine intervention echo through the ages. One such legend tells of the indomitable warriors Alha and Udal, devout followers of Sharda Devi, whose unwavering faith led them to this sacred abode. It’s said that their souls still grace the temple precincts in the early hours, paying homage to the Divine Mother.

According to the local legends, when Prithviraj Chauhan defeated King Parmal then in anger Aalha took out his sword to kill the army of Prithviraj Chauhan but goddess Sharda caught his hands and stopped him. It is said that they are the first ones to visit the goddess in this remote forest. They called the mother goddess by the name ‘Sharda Mai’, and henceforth she became popular as ‘Mata Sharda Mai’. Alha worshipped for 12 years and got the amaratva with the blessings of Sharda Devi. It’s believed that their souls visit the temple in the early hours to pay their respect to the Mother. The temple remains closed during that time.

The legend, which is believed to be the origin story of the temple, begins with Devi Sati and Lord Shiva marrying against the wishes of the Goddess’s father, Daksha. Disheartened by the marriage, Daksha arranged a grand Yagna purposely excluding Lord Shiva, intending to insult Him. This act enraged the Goddess, leading her to sacrifice herself in the holy fire. Learning of Her demise, Lord Shiva, consumed by grief and anger, began to destroy everything in his path, carrying the lifeless body of the Goddess on his back. To halt his rampage, Lord Vishnu intervened, slicing the Goddess’s body into 52 pieces that fell across different parts of India, where 52 Shakti Peethas (shrines) were established. Maihar isn’t among these 52 shrines but is revered as one of the necklaces (‘har’ in Hindi) of the Goddess (‘Mai’ meaning Mother) where it is believed a piece of her body fell. Sharda is just one of Her many names.

The journey to Maihar from Allahabad, though fraught with the challenges of rough terrain, was a testament to our determination. The anticipation grew as we approached the gateway to the temple, where pilgrims eagerly awaited the opening of the sanctum sanctorum. Despite the closure of the ropeway for maintenance, our resolve remained steadfast, and we embarked on a scenic ascent up the hill in a Maruti van.

Upon reaching the temple’s summit, a sense of serenity enveloped us as we stood in awe of the majestic Sharda Devi Temple. Surrounded by statues of revered deities and the perpetual glow of the Akhand Jyoti, the sanctity of the place transcended time itself. Behind the temple, Alha Pond glistened in the sunlight, a poignant reminder of the legends that breathe life into Maihar’s rich tapestry.

As we immersed ourselves in prayer and reflection, the allure of Maihar extended beyond its spiritual realm. The town’s cultural heritage, exemplified by the illustrious Maihar gharana of Hindustani classical music, captivated our senses. From legendary maestros like Ravi Shankar and Ali Akbar Khan to the melodious strains that reverberate through its streets, Maihar’s musical legacy resonates far and wide.

The famous historian A. Cunningham has done a detailed Study of this temple. He dates the stone inscription to 9th or 10th century CE.

Behind the temple and downhill is Alha Pond. At a distance of 2 km from this pond is situated an ‘akhara’ (wrestling ring) where Alha and Udal used to practice kushti (wrestling). The people of Maihar believe that Alha is still alive and comes at 4 am in the morning to worship the Goddess Sharda.

There is a nice narrow wandering stream flowing below the temple hill. The hills nearby are surprisingly flat, barren tops!

After our worship at the temple, we had our lunch at a restaurant in the market near the temple.

After lunch, we returned home.

Our journey culminated with a sumptuous meal in the bustling market near the temple, where the flavours of the region tantalized our taste buds. With hearts full of reverence and memories etched in our minds, we bid farewell to Maihar, knowing that its mystical allure would forever remain ingrained in our souls.