It was during a contemplative visit to the Bhadrakali temple in Itkhori, that I first heard whispers of another sacred site — the Ugratara Temple, nestled deep within the Latehar district of Jharkhand. The name lingered in my thoughts like a half-remembered melody. Maa Ugratara. Fierce, ancient, maternal. I knew then that I would seek her out.

The opportunity came on our return journey from Betla National Park. Instead of retracing our steps to Ranchi, we chose a detour — a quiet divergence from Chandwa, steering left toward Balumath. The road, flanked by rail lines near Tori station, curved gently through the landscape until a modest gate appeared on our left, guiding us toward the temple. Along the way, we passed wedding processions — a reminder that this temple is not just a place of worship, but a living witness to life’s milestones.

A Temple Rooted in Centuries

The Ugratara Temple stands approximately 90 kilometers from Ranchi, its origin tracing back to the 15th century. It is said to be a Shakti Peeth, and the air around it hums with a quiet reverence. The temple’s architecture is modest, but its spirit is immense. During Ramnavmi and Durga Puja, the temple pulses with life, drawing pilgrims from Jharkhand and neighboring states — West Bengal, Odisha, Chhattisgarh, Bihar, and Madhya Pradesh.

But what sets this temple apart is its unique celebration of Navratri — not the usual nine days, but sixteen. A tradition born of royal devotion, it is said that a king once worshipped the Mother for sixteen days, and that this practice has been upheld for centuries by the royal families of Jharkhand.

The Rituals of the Sixteen-Day Navratri

Navratri here begins not with the first day of Ashwin, but with the second day of Jitiya Parva — Ashwin Krishna Paksha Navami. The Kalash is installed, and Ashtabhuji Mata is worshipped. The rituals culminate on Ashwin Shukla Paksha Dashami, weaving a spiritual arc that spans sixteen days. The temple becomes a vibrant confluence of devotion, music, and cultural performances.

What moved me most was the temple’s adherence to a 500-year-old handwritten book — a sacred manuscript that guides every ritual. Its pages, astonishingly preserved, shimmer with ink that has defied time. The book even contains instructions on how to replicate itself, detailing the preparation of ink and the method of transcription. It is not just a manual; it is a living archive of devotion.

The Visarjan That Waits for Permission

Durga Visarjan at Ugratara Temple is unlike any other. On Vijayadashami, devotees offer paan (betel leaves) to the Goddess. The leaves are placed on her seat, and the community waits — sometimes for 10 to 12 hours — for the leaves to fall. Only then does the immersion ceremony begin. If the paan does not descend, the immersion is postponed. This act, simple yet profound, is seen as the Goddess’s signal — her permission to conclude the worship. It is a ritual that demands patience, faith, and surrender.

A Temple of Harmony

Behind the temple lies the tomb of Madar Shah, a Muslim devotee of Bhagawati. During Vijayadashami, five flags are raised at the temple, and a sixth — a white flag — is sent to be hoisted over Madar Shah’s tomb. The drums played during temple rituals are organized by the Muslim community. This interweaving of traditions, this quiet coexistence, is perhaps the temple’s most powerful offering — a reminder that faith, when rooted in respect, transcends boundaries.

A Royal Connection

Legend has it that centuries ago, a king journeyed through the Mankeiri Jungle — now Latehar — and paused by a pond to drink. As he cupped the water, an idol appeared in his hands. That night, the Goddess visited him in a dream, asking to be enshrined in his palace. Thus, the temple was born. Even Queen Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore, on her way to Bengal, was drawn to this temple’s aura. She performed a grand puja here, and the villagers still recount her visit with pride.

Daily Offerings for Devotees

One of the temple’s unique traditions is offering rice and lentils as prasad every single day of the year, ensuring devotees experience the divine grace of the Goddess throughout. Devotees are served with this prasad, a testament to the temple’s hospitality and spirituality.

A Quiet Encounter

When we arrived, the temple was serene — no crowds, no chaos. The sanctum had been freshly cleaned, and preparations for the bhog prasad were underway. I sat in quiet prayer, absorbing the stillness. Soon, the Pujari called us forward and handed us dal and rice bhog in sal leaf containers. It was simple, nourishing, and sacred. That moment — receiving prasad not as a ritual, but as a gesture of grace — stayed with me.

We left the temple with hearts full and spirits quieted. The road back felt lighter, as if the weight of the world had been momentarily lifted. The Ugratara Temple is not just a destination — it is a pause in time, a place where history, faith, and humanity converge.

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