The Ambubachi Mela: A Journey of Faith and Unforeseen Obstacles

Today marks the beginning of the Ambubachi Mela at the Kamakhya Temple, a significant event for Hindu devotees. Held annually in Guwahati, Assam, this festival celebrates the divine feminine during the monsoon season. The 2024 Ambubachi Mela is set to take place from today, June 22 to June 26 this year. During these days, the Kamakhya Temple will be closed from June 22 to June 25 to mark the Goddess Kamakhya’s menstrual cycle. No devotee is allowed inside the temple until 9:08 PM on June 25. This tradition draws countless devotees to the Kamakhya Temple every year.

Kamakhya, also known as Kameshvari, is revered as the goddess of desire. Her shrine is nestled in the Nilachal Hills of Guwahati, and the festival is often referred to as the “Mahakumbh of the East.” The temple’s history is rich and ancient, initially built by Kama Deva, the god of love, in honour of Sati. The current structure was reconstructed by Nara Narayana in the early 16th century after the original was destroyed.

In the late 1980s, while working as the Loans and Foreign Exchange Officer at a bank in Aligarh, I decided to fulfil my mother’s long-held wish to visit the Kamakhya Temple. Despite the widespread civil unrest in Assam at the time, we booked our tickets on the Tinsukia Express from Aligarh to Guwahati.

Our journey began smoothly, but as we reached Malda in West Bengal, rumours of disturbances started circulating. Despite some delays, the train continued until it stopped at a small, rural station around 9 PM. Hungry and tired, the passengers relied on the villagers’ homemade food, parathas, and omelettes, which were sold quickly.

At around 11 PM, we decided to sleep, hoping the train would resume its journey. Early the next morning, I woke up to find we had arrived at New Jalpaiguri Junction (NJP). The Travelling Ticket Examiner (TTE) informed us that due to blasts by Bodos on the railway tracks, the train could not proceed. We received an official railway memo for a refund of the fare from NJP to Guwahati. When I showed the memo at the ticket counter, I received the refund immediately. It seemed to be a common occurrence, and the staff were well-prepared for such situations.

Our journey ended there, and we couldn’t reach the Kamakhya Temple. There is a saying that one can only visit a deity when they are called. Our incomplete journey seemed to affirm this belief. My mother never got to visit the Kamakhya Temple, and I, too, have yet to make the pilgrimage. I am still waiting for the divine call to complete this spiritual journey.


The saying “one can only visit a deity when they are called” reflects the belief that spiritual experiences and connections with the divine are not solely within human control. It suggests that a higher power, or the deity themselves, initiates these encounters, guiding individuals towards these sacred moments when the time is right. This perspective emphasizes humility and patience, recognizing that spiritual enlightenment or divine intervention happens according to a greater plan rather than personal desire. It reminds us that while seeking spiritual growth is important, being open and receptive to the divine’s timing is equally crucial.

4 thoughts on “The Ambubachi Mela: A Journey of Faith and Unforeseen Obstacles

  1. Sanchita Ghosh

    The saying “one can only visit a deity when they are called” holds true. In my personal experiences, I’ve found that despite careful planning, we were unable to go on a pilgrimage. Your story is particularly extreme, as you were actually traveling, only for it to be abruptly cut short by a terror incident.

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