Baghdad is the capital city of Iraq, located in the central part of the country along the Tigris River. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and has a rich history dating back thousands of years.
In Iraq, I discovered that tea is far more than a mere beverage; it's a profound ritual, a sanctuary, and a quiet testament to resilience, much as it is in India. From the timeless charm of Baghdad’s Shabandar Café to the sun-drenched benches near Erbil’s citadel, each sip of tea tells a story. It's a reminder that many of life's deepest lessons, like a perfectly steeped glass, are infused slowly, revealing their wisdom gradually.
In August 2007, I embarked on my first flight into Baghdad, experiencing a nerve-wracking corkscrew descent designed for safety amidst conflict. Arriving in a war-torn city, I was there to help transform the Trade Bank of Iraq's digital landscape. Supported by a local colleague, I navigated security and customs, witnessing Baghdad's scars of war alongside its resilience. This journey signified a significant beginning in my professional life.
Shawarma evokes memories of aromatic, succulent meat slowly roasted to perfection. Beginning in Baghdad’s vibrant streets, where street vendors skillfully carved tender chicken or lamb, it transformed into a cherished culinary experience. Recently, in Ranchi, a roadside vendor reignited that magic for me. While it lacked Baghdad's authenticity, the warm, comforting flavours evoked nostalgia, binding past and present and highlighting food’s power to connect us to cherished memories and moments.
In the heart of Baghdad's Adhamiya district, the search for fried catfish led to an unforgettable culinary adventure. Amidst vibrant streets and the aroma of spices, the dish was a sensory delight. With its rich flavours and cultural significance, the meal served as a connection to Baghdad's history and traditions. This experience was more than just a meal; it was a heartfelt connection to the city and its people.
In 2007 Baghdad, amidst ongoing conflict, travel became a chaotic ordeal with limited options, relying on Jupiter Airlines. The experience at the airport was a stark contrast to modern standards, marked by disorganization and chaos. Boarding was a frenzied push for space, while flights felt more like overcrowded village buses. Despite the absurdity, this journey mirrored the unpredictability of life in Baghdad, embodying the resilience and determination of its people amidst hardship.
On International Museum Day, I recall my moving visit to the Iraq Museum. Amidst the ancient artifacts, the remains of Neanderthal "Nandy" from the Shanidar Cave, dating back to 60,000-45,000 BCE, left a profound impact. His injuries and intentional burial challenge stereotypes, offering insights into Neanderthal society and our shared human history.
Kahi, the national breakfast of Iraq, consists of buttery, flaky pastry layers served with rich geymar, a thick clotted cream made from water buffalo milk. This breakfast dish is typically accompanied by honey, date molasses, or syrup, creating a decadent experience. The combination of crunchy Kahi and creamy geymar offers a luxurious flavor profile, representing a cherished aspect of Iraqi culinary tradition that's truly satisfying and unforgettable.
Four years ago, in the National Museum of Iraq, I encountered the mythic creature Mushussu, a hybrid of serpent, lion, and eagle in Mesopotamian mythology. Its name, stemming from Akkadian, connects to divine power and protection associated with Marduk, Babylon's chief god. Mushussu embodied attributes of vitality and guardianship, prominently featured on the Ishtar Gate. Today, its legacy persists in museums and digital platforms, bridging ancient mythology with modern cultural imagination.
The Mask of Warka, dating to 3100 BCE, is a pivotal archaeological find from Uruk in ancient Mesopotamia. Likely representing the goddess Inanna, its striking naturalism showcases early sculptural artistry and religious symbolism. The mask reflects the civilization’s complex beliefs and artistic evolution, bridging the divine and human realms in ancient culture.
The financial year-end in Iraq is on December 31st, and this year was no exception. After closing the books, colleagues Ali and the author marked the new year with savory shawarma and a visit to Al Halawany Sweets for Kunafeh and Halawet el-jibn. Halawet el-jibn, a cheese dessert, impressed with its sweet semolina and cheese dough, clotted cream, and pistachio topping. Kunafeh, a crispy and gooey Middle Eastern favorite, also stood out. They savored these treats with aromatic coffee, contemplating the dessert's origins and hidden gem status. The visit left a sweet start to 2023, highlighting the joy of shared food experiences.
