Erbil, also called Hawler, is the capital and most populated city in the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. The city is in the Erbil Governorate. Human settlement at Erbil may be dated back to the 5th millennium BCE.
A quiet walk brought me to an empty Chinese tearoom in Erbil, where Ba Bao Cha—Eight Treasure Tea—slowly unfurled in a glass vessel, blending time and tranquility. Gentle sweetness, floral whispers, and stillness combined in a cup, transforming an unplanned pause into a lasting memory.
On a cool December evening in Erbil, I walked without a set direction, letting the festive lights inspire my thoughts. I paused unexpectedly at the Vinery Café, savoring an affogato—a mix of hot espresso and cold ice cream. In this simple combination, I found a reflection of life: opposites like bitter and sweet, hot and cold, liquid and solid coming together to create something unexpectedly complete.
On a chilly winter day in Erbil, nothing warms the soul like a smoky, juicy kebab. From the legendary Yasin’s beneath the Citadel to Farooq Jaafar’s famed skewers on Iskan Street, Erbil’s kebabs are culinary ritual and cultural heritage. Wrapped in fresh naan, topped with sumac onions, and sipped with chilled Mastaw, each bite is a taste of Kurdish warmth.
In the heart of Erbil, where modern life hums around an ancient hill, history still breathes through stone. The Erbil Citadel — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places — rises above the city like a memory that refuses to fade. Beneath it, the Old Bazaar buzzes with life: men sip tea and smoke shisha under the autumn sun, children feed pigeons, and the aroma of kebabs drifts through narrow lanes once walked by traders and conquerors alike. Watching people enjoy these simple pleasures, time seems to dissolve — and you realize that in Erbil, the past and present are forever entwined.
The experience of dining on Iskender Döner at BayDöner in Erbil's Family Mall transcended mere consumption; it became a vivid memory. This iconic Turkish dish, rich in flavors and prepared traditionally, transported me through culinary history while also reflecting Erbil's diverse culture, blending Turkish culinary heritage with local life.
At Erbil's Grand Majidi Mall, I met up with my friend Arbab for a memorable dinner at Mandi Al-Hattab. The cosy atmosphere of the restaurant provided the perfect setting for enjoying a traditional Mandi meal. The dish, known for its deep flavours and cultural importance, offered both delight and a meaningful link to heritage, making the experience truly memorable.
Erbil is a city that combines a rich historical background with contemporary living, exemplified by Qazuan Restaurant, famous for its genuine Kurdish dishes. An impromptu lunch with coworkers turned into a delightful culinary journey featuring tasty meals and a welcoming environment. The traditional ambience added to the experience, enabling a stronger cultural connection. After a short wait, the food exceeded expectations, reflecting Kurdish hospitality. The gathering promoted friendship, creating lasting memories and emphasising the strong ties that food fosters within cultures.
On a hot summer evening in Erbil, I sought shelter in a cool café and ordered an Iced Matcha Latte, intrigued by its unique appeal. The drink, made from ground green tea and milk over ice, offered a refreshing and intricate flavour. This beverage, steeped in history, represented a moment of tranquillity in the heat, highlighting the value of enjoying life's simple pleasures and finding peace amid the chaos.
In Iraq, I discovered that tea is far more than a mere beverage; it's a profound ritual, a sanctuary, and a quiet testament to resilience, much as it is in India. From the timeless charm of Baghdad’s Shabandar Café to the sun-drenched benches near Erbil’s citadel, each sip of tea tells a story. It's a reminder that many of life's deepest lessons, like a perfectly steeped glass, are infused slowly, revealing their wisdom gradually.
In Erbil, I enjoyed Koshary, Egypt's national dish, blending lentils, rice, pasta, chickpeas, and spicy tomato sauce, with roots tracing back to India's khichri. This iconic vegetarian dish reflects cultural fusion and has become a staple in diverse culinary landscapes. Its affordability, filling nature, and universal appeal make it popular among locals and visitors, symbolizing food's power to connect cultures through shared heritage.
