The Hot Kebabs of Erbil: A Winter Ode from Kurdistan’s Beating Heart

On a chilly winter day in Erbil, nothing warms the soul like a smoky, juicy kebab. From the legendary Yasin’s beneath the Citadel to Farooq Jaafar’s famed skewers on Iskan Street, Erbil’s kebabs are culinary ritual and cultural heritage. Wrapped in fresh naan, topped with sumac onions, and sipped with chilled Mastaw, each bite is a taste of Kurdish warmth.

Under the Citadel’s Shadow: Savouring Erbil’s Soul

In the heart of Erbil, where modern life hums around an ancient hill, history still breathes through stone. The Erbil Citadel — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places — rises above the city like a memory that refuses to fade. Beneath it, the Old Bazaar buzzes with life: men sip tea and smoke shisha under the autumn sun, children feed pigeons, and the aroma of kebabs drifts through narrow lanes once walked by traders and conquerors alike. Watching people enjoy these simple pleasures, time seems to dissolve — and you realize that in Erbil, the past and present are forever entwined.

A Golden Saturday in Erbil: Kebab, Companionship, & the Kurdish Soul

Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region in Iraq, boasts a rich culinary scene, particularly at Kebab Farouq Jaafar in Iskan, renowned for its delectable kebabs. During a memorable lunch with colleagues, a variety of grilled meats and traditional dishes showcased the restaurant's authenticity. The meal culminated with fragrant Iraqi chai, reinforcing the joy of shared experiences amidst vibrant local culture, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts.

From Baghdad to Ranchi: Shawarma’s Global Adventure

Shawarma evokes memories of aromatic, succulent meat slowly roasted to perfection. Beginning in Baghdad’s vibrant streets, where street vendors skillfully carved tender chicken or lamb, it transformed into a cherished culinary experience. Recently, in Ranchi, a roadside vendor reignited that magic for me. While it lacked Baghdad's authenticity, the warm, comforting flavours evoked nostalgia, binding past and present and highlighting food’s power to connect us to cherished memories and moments.

Skewers, Stories, & the Soul of Erbil: A Night at Yasin Restaurant

In Erbil, Kurdistan, Yasin Restaurant is renowned for its succulent kebabs, drawing locals and travelers. The warm ambience and diverse menu create an unforgettable dining experience. We, a group of friends, enjoyed a feast, savoring traditional Kurdish flavors and the company of each other. The evening concluded with traditional Kurdish tea, leaving hearts full and memories cherished. Yasin Restaurant is a must-visit for a delightful culinary adventure.

Rain, Nostalgia, & the Golden Bloom: Kumro Phool Bhaja

Pumpkin flower pakodas, or kumro phool bhaja, are a cherished Bengali delicacy with deep roots in the region's agrarian traditions, where every part of the plant was utilized. In Ranchi, I recently found these vibrant flowers in the market and brought them home, where my wife, Jagrata, expertly transformed them into crispy, golden fritters. The delicate blend of spices and the tender sweetness of the flower made each bite a nostalgic journey, connecting us to our heritage. This simple yet flavorful dish is a family favorite, especially loved by our son, Judhajit, and serves as a reminder of the enduring power of tradition and the joy of sharing it with the next generation.

Adhamiya’s Fried Catfish: A Culinary Pilgrimage in the Heart of Baghdad

In the heart of Baghdad's Adhamiya district, the search for fried catfish led to an unforgettable culinary adventure. Amidst vibrant streets and the aroma of spices, the dish was a sensory delight. With its rich flavours and cultural significance, the meal served as a connection to Baghdad's history and traditions. This experience was more than just a meal; it was a heartfelt connection to the city and its people.