A Corkscrew into Baghdad: My First Descent into Iraq

In August 2007, I embarked on my first flight into Baghdad, experiencing a nerve-wracking corkscrew descent designed for safety amidst conflict. Arriving in a war-torn city, I was there to help transform the Trade Bank of Iraq's digital landscape. Supported by a local colleague, I navigated security and customs, witnessing Baghdad's scars of war alongside its resilience. This journey signified a significant beginning in my professional life.

Architects of a Forgotten Age: Unraveling the Mystery of the Ubaid Lizard Figurines

The Ubaid culture, existing in southern Mesopotamia around 5000 to 4000 BCE, laid the groundwork for Sumerian civilization. Notably, the Lizard Figurines, with their unique reptilian features, suggest complex societal beliefs, including possible connections to shamanism and fertility. These artifacts highlight Ubaid advancements in art, agriculture, and spirituality.

A Tea Lover’s Journey at Machko Chai Khana in Erbil

Erbil, the capital of Kurdistan, hosts the Erbil Citadel, one of the oldest inhabited sites globally. Inside its ancient walls, Machko Chai Khana tea house offers a cozy atmosphere and traditional Iraqi chai, rich in spices and history. The tea house embodies Iraqi hospitality, fostering connections among locals and travelers. A visit to Machko is essential for those seeking cultural and culinary experiences in Erbil.

Skewers, Stories, & the Soul of Erbil: A Night at Yasin Restaurant

In Erbil, Kurdistan, Yasin Restaurant is renowned for its succulent kebabs, drawing locals and travelers. The warm ambience and diverse menu create an unforgettable dining experience. We, a group of friends, enjoyed a feast, savoring traditional Kurdish flavors and the company of each other. The evening concluded with traditional Kurdish tea, leaving hearts full and memories cherished. Yasin Restaurant is a must-visit for a delightful culinary adventure.

Adhamiya’s Fried Catfish: A Culinary Pilgrimage in the Heart of Baghdad

In the heart of Baghdad's Adhamiya district, the search for fried catfish led to an unforgettable culinary adventure. Amidst vibrant streets and the aroma of spices, the dish was a sensory delight. With its rich flavours and cultural significance, the meal served as a connection to Baghdad's history and traditions. This experience was more than just a meal; it was a heartfelt connection to the city and its people.

Chapli Kebabs & the Taste of Goodbye: A Farewell Etched in Spice

Erbil, the vibrant heart of Kurdistan, reveals its stories through food, particularly the Chapli Kebabs made by my neighbor Arbab. Our friendship blossomed over shared meals and laughter, with each kebab offering a journey through time and culture. Arbab’s cooking, full of love and tradition, connected us deeply. The flavors and aromas of his kitchen embody cherished memories, making food a lasting expression of friendship and heritage.

Castles of Kurdistan: Stones that Speak

The medieval period evokes vivid images of knights and castles in European history, but the Middle East has a rich medieval tapestry as well, particularly in the Kurdish emirates. A recent exploration of Dere, Dwin, and Khanzad castles in Erbil revealed their historical significance. Dere Castle, dating back to the 19th century, stood witness to the region's past, while Dwin Castle's connection to Kurdish hero Salahuddin and Khanzad Castle's defensive role underscored Kurdistan's enduring heritage and resilience.

Kushim: The Accountant Who Started History

The first person in recorded history, known through ancient writings, is Kushim, an accountant from Mesopotamia. His name, etched on a clay tablet dating back to 3200 BCE, reflects a significant yet humble role in documenting economic transactions and the emergence of writing. This discovery highlights the vital contribution of ordinary individuals to civilization, reminding us that history is shaped by both extraordinary figures and everyday people like Kushim.