There are places where history is etched into every stone, whispered by the sea breeze, and reflected in the rhythm of daily life. Byblos, an ancient port city on the Mediterranean coast of Lebanon, is one such place. My travels have taken me to many corners of the world, but my time in Beirut allowed me the luxury of visiting Byblos multiple times. Each visit felt like peeling back layers of history, revealing stories that transcended time.

The Echoes of Antiquity

Byblos is not just another historic site; it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Known locally as Jubayl, the city dates back to at least 8800 BCE, with continuous habitation since 5000 BCE. It was here that the Phoenicians, the master traders and seafarers of the ancient world, established their first city. As I walked through the ruins, I could almost hear the hum of ancient markets, the clang of shipbuilders at work, and the murmur of scholars crafting an alphabet that would shape written communication for generations to come.

Historian Will Durant noted, “Byblos thought itself the oldest of all cities; the god El had founded it at the beginning of time.” The Greeks named it Byblos, derived from its booming papyrus trade. That same word, “biblos,” would later lend itself to the name of the Bible, reinforcing Byblos’ influence on written history.

A Living Museum

Byblos’ history is not confined to dusty books or museum plaques—it is embedded in its very streets. As I strolled through the city’s ancient port, I was struck by the seamless blend of past and present. The old harbour, once bustling with Phoenician trade ships laden with cedar wood, is now home to yachts and fishing boats. The Crusader citadel, with its limestone walls and remnants of Roman structures, stands as a silent witness to the rise and fall of empires.

The story of Byblos begins between 8800 and 7000 BCE, with evidence suggesting that it has been continuously inhabited since 5000 BCE. This ancient city was a melting pot of cultures, including Egyptian, Phoenician, Assyrian, Persian, Hellenistic, Roman, Genoese, Mamluk, and Ottoman. Each of these cultures left an indelible mark on the city, contributing to its rich tapestry of history. 

The Alphabet & Beyond

One of Byblos’ greatest contributions to civilization was the Phoenician alphabet, the precursor to Greek, Latin, and most modern Western scripts. Standing before the Phoenician inscriptions at the ruins, I felt an overwhelming sense of awe. This city had not only witnessed history; it had written it.

As I meandered through the ruins, I imagined the scholars and scribes of Byblos carving letters that would go on to shape human expression. The thought that an alphabet developed here was the foundation for my own written words filled me with profound appreciation.

Byblos distinguished itself as a pioneering centre for ship-building, a craft in which its artisans excelled. The mastery of Byblos’ shipwrights played a pivotal role in solidifying the Phoenicians’ renown as mariners and earned them the epithet “princes of the sea,” as immortalized in the biblical book of Ezekiel. The city’s remarkable wealth was largely derived from its flourishing trade relations with Egypt, underscoring Byblos’ pivotal role as a hub of maritime commerce.

Originating as a modest fishing village known as Gebal (Jbeil in Arabic), the city burgeoned into prosperity against the backdrop of the coastal region, referred to by the Greeks as Phoenicia, and by its inhabitants as Canaan. By the year 3000 BCE, this once diminutive settlement had flourished into a thriving urban centre, fueled by extensive trade networks. Renowned for its coveted cedars, Lebanon’s timber held great value for neighbouring lands, particularly in construction endeavours. Byblos emerged as the preeminent port for timber shipments, serving as a vital conduit for trade routes, notably to Egypt and beyond.

Between 1100 and 725 BCE Byblos declined in importance as her sister city, Tyre, grew. After the conquest of the region by Alexander the Great, and the destruction of Tyre in 332 BCE, Byblos again prospered and adopted Greek culture, dress, and language. During the Hellenistic period (330-64 BCE) Byblos became most famous for the production of papyrus which would give it its Greek name.

The Crusaders’ Legacy

In Byblos stands a castle, erected by the Crusaders during the 12th century, utilizing local limestone and repurposing remnants of Roman edifices. Encircled by a protective moat upon completion, this fortress bore witness to the ebb and flow of conquests.

In 1188, Saladin, the inaugural sultan of Egypt and Syria and the progenitor of the Ayyubid dynasty seized control of both the town and the castle, ordering the dismantling of its walls in 1190. However, Byblos was later reclaimed by the Crusaders, who reconstructed the castle’s defences in 1197, marking a chapter of enduring resilience amid the tumult of history.

The Fossil Museum

One of the most fascinating places in Byblos is the Byblos Fossil Museum, a hidden gem in the old souk. It showcases fossils dating back over 100 million years, unearthed from nearby quarries.

Within the bustling souk of Byblos lies a hidden gem: the Byblos Fossil Museum, also known as the “Memory of Time.” This unique establishment showcases an impressive array of fossil specimens, including sharks, eels, shrimps, squids, rays, coelacanths, and flying fish. The majority of these fossils originate from the neighbouring villages of Haqel-Byblos, Hjula, and Ennammoura, which have garnered global recognition for their quarries teeming with remarkable marine fossils, spanning fish, crustaceans, starfish, and more. Some of these fossils boast ages exceeding 100 million years, offering visitors a captivating glimpse into the ancient history of the region.

Driven by enthusiasm and captivated by the opportunity to own a piece of ancient history, I eagerly acquired a couple of fossils from the Byblos Fossil Museum for my personal collection and as cherished mementoes of my journey.

The Old Souk

Byblos captivates as a mesmerizing tourist destination, showcasing an ancient port and traces of Phoenician, Roman, and Crusader legacies. Enhanced by sandy beaches and picturesque mountain vistas, its natural beauty beckons visitors. The old souk, permeated with the essence of history, imbues the atmosphere with charm, rendering Byblos an enchanting haven for travellers seeking a blend of culture, heritage, and scenic splendour.

A Cultural Melting Pot 

Byblos’ cultural landscape is as diverse as its history. The city hosts music festivals, art exhibitions, and culinary events that showcase the best of Lebanese culture. It’s a place where the past is always present, where every stone tells a story, and where history lives in the hearts of its people. 

A Feast for the Senses

No visit to Byblos is complete without indulging in its culinary treasures. The old souk, a labyrinth of cobblestone streets, is alive with the scent of freshly baked manakish, a traditional Lebanese flatbread topped with cheese or za’atar. Street vendors offer an array of vibrant spices, artisanal crafts, and, of course, warm Lebanese hospitality.

We then walked along the old harbour, which is lined with fishing boats and restaurants.

One of my fondest memories is dining at a seafood restaurant by the harbour. With the salty sea breeze in the air, I feasted on grilled octopus and fresh fish, paired with a crisp Lebanese white wine. The meal was not just about flavours—it was an experience, a moment in time where history, culture, and nature converged.

A City That Breathes History

Byblos is more than just a place; it is an experience. It is a city where history is not confined to museums but woven into the very fabric of daily life. It is a place where the past is never truly past, where the waves that lap against the harbour carry echoes of Phoenician traders, Egyptian scribes, Roman governors, and medieval knights.

Each visit to Byblos left me with a deeper appreciation for human ingenuity, resilience, and the passage of time. Whether through the silent grandeur of its ruins, the vibrant energy of its souks, or the flavours of its cuisine, Byblos remains a timeless testament to civilization’s unbreakable spirit.

As I left the city, the sun dipping below the horizon, I knew I was carrying a piece of Byblos with me—not just in the form of fossils or souvenirs, but in the stories, experiences, and the indelible mark it had left on my soul.