A road trip through the serene landscapes of North Sikkim is nothing short of magical. Our journey from Gangtok to Lachen was not just a commute, but an exploration through a land of mesmerizing beauty, charming villages, and untamed wilderness. Let me take you along on this unforgettable journey, from the bustling streets of Gangtok to the tranquil heights of Lachen, with the ever-majestic Teesta River flowing beside us, and the distant peaks of the Eastern Himalayas watching over us.

Lachen, nestled in the northern reaches of Sikkim, beckons travellers with its serene beauty and proximity to the stunning Gurudongmar Lake. Our journey began early in the morning from Gangtok, allowing us ample time to soak in the beauty of the route ahead.

The Perfect Timing for a Road Trip

My son Judhajit, having completed his MBBS and internship in Gangtok, was all set to pack up and move. Jagrata and I had come to help him with the process, but we decided to make the most of our trip with a 3-day, 2-night excursion into North Sikkim. While we enjoyed the scenic beauty and the thrill of the journey, it wasn’t without its challenges. Jagrata, who tends to feel travel sickness on winding roads, kept her medicines handy but never let it stop her from joining the adventure. It’s fair to say, all three of us love to travel, and Sikkim’s rugged, circular roads wouldn’t hold us back!

Essential Permits

Before starting the journey, we made sure all the necessary permits were in order. Given the proximity to the Indo-Tibet border, permits are mandatory to access this region. Thanks to Judhajit’s meticulous planning, all paperwork was taken care of in advance. It was a relief not having to waste time on formalities, and with copies of our IDs ready, we were good to go.

On the Road to Lachen

We left Gangtok early, around 9:45 AM, aiming for a leisurely journey that would take us roughly seven hours. The route was scenic and rich with life—each turn revealed new vistas, from cascading waterfalls to quaint villages and dense forests. Along the way, we followed the Teesta River, its emerald waters rushing beside us, adding to the trip’s charm.

Though the roads were sometimes narrow, they were never overwhelmingly bumpy, allowing us to enjoy the journey without feeling rushed. The beauty of Sikkim unfolds gradually, with each village offering glimpses into the daily lives of its residents. The hills, alive with greenery, seemed to welcome us into their embrace.

The road is not in the best condition, but also not in the worst. It doesn’t really feel bumpy for most parts of the journey and the speed with which you travel gives you ample time to absorb in the beauty outside.

The Cascading Waterfalls of Sikkim

One of Sikkim’s signature features is its waterfalls, many of which are snow-fed and cascade down the cliffs, creating a misty veil over the roads. The Dzongu area between Lachung and Mangan, in particular, is blessed with an abundance of waterfalls, making this stretch of road even more picturesque. We stopped to admire a few, letting the cool mist settle on our skin, each waterfall a perfect piece of nature’s art.

The Dzongu area and the road between Lachung and Mangan in North Sikkim are blessed with the maximum numbers of waterfalls in Sikkim. Numerous waterfalls astride the main road make the trip to North Sikkim extremely picturesque.

North Sikkim is close to international borders with China and therefore the movement in this area is monitored by the Indian army.

The Historic Kabi Lungchok

Our first significant stop was at Kabi Lungchok, a place steeped in history. It was here that the Bhutia and Lepcha tribes signed the ‘Treaty of Blood Brotherhood’ in the 13th century, uniting in peace under the watchful eyes of Mount Kangchenjunga. The site has life-sized statues of the two tribesmen, immortalizing this historic moment. It’s hard not to feel connected to the land when standing in a place so rich in heritage.

A Refreshing Stop at Seven Sisters Waterfall

Continuing north, we reached the Seven Sisters Waterfall near Kabi Lungchok. As the name suggests, the waterfall has seven distinct tiers, creating a mesmerizing cascade. This is a serene waterfall seen in three distinct tiers. From the road, all the waterfalls are not visible. There is a rack of steps which can be taken to view it a bit more closely. We climbed a few steps to get closer to the water, which was crystal clear, with some areas shallow enough to touch. A mini cave-like structure near the waterfall added an element of mystery. The Tourism Department has set up a lovely shed here, perfect for relaxing and enjoying a warm cup of tea. After our break, we pressed on.

A Delicious Pitstop at Phodong

There was another check-post at Rongong near Phodong. After crossing the Rongong post, we stopped for a hearty lunch at the Green Valley restaurant near Phodong. A simple but comforting Sikkimese meal gave us the energy to continue our journey. Our driver handled the roads with skill, and by 1:00 PM, we were back on the winding path northward.

A Small Setback

As is often the case with mountain roads, our journey wasn’t without its challenges. Just before Mangan, a heavy truck carrying a cement mixer got stuck in the wet mud. Our driver, thinking he could overtake the truck, got our Innova stuck as well. But the Sikkimese spirit of camaraderie shone through when a few fellow travelers and vehicles stopped to help. Together, with a rope and a lot of pushing, we managed to free the vehicle. It was a brief hiccup, but it was heartwarming to see how people come together in the mountains.

Mangan – The Cardamom Capital

Passing through Mangan, the largest town in North Sikkim, we learned that it is known as the “Large Cardamom Capital of the World.”  Sikkim is one of the leading producers of cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) globally, with many local farmers involved in its cultivation alongside other agricultural activities.

Located at 4,000 feet above sea level, it’s the gateway for travelers heading to Lachung, Lachen, and other popular destinations in the region. It was a small but bustling town, and we could see the vast fields of cardamom stretching across the surrounding hills

The Majestic Naga Waterfalls

Further on, we passed many lesser-known waterfalls, with Naga Waterfalls being one of the most stunning. The drizzle added a mystical charm, and the cold wind made the experience even more refreshing. Stopping by a roadside tea stall, we had hot tea to warm up before continuing our journey.

Chungthang – The Confluence of Rivers

Situated at 5,870 feet, Chungthang is a crucial junction where the Lachen and Lachung rivers unite, giving rise to the Teesta River. Its strategic location is complemented by its deep cultural roots, as it is believed to have been blessed by Guru Padmasambhava, drawing pilgrims to this historically rich town.

There is another checkpoint here. After the formalities were done by the driver, we moved ahead for Chungthang. From here, we took the left fork towards Lachen, which was only 26 km away, but felt much farther due to the winding, narrow roads that climbed higher and higher into the hills. The temperature was dropping, and the air was growing thinner as we ascended.

Lachen – A Peaceful Gateway to Gurudongmar Lake

The last rays of a sun, painted gold against the jagged Himalayan peaks, heralded our arrival in Lachen. At 9,022 feet, the air thinned, and time seemed to slow, almost to a standstill. “Big Pass,” the Tibetan meaning, felt apt. This wasn’t just a village; it was a sanctuary, home to 250 Lachenpa families, living a life seemingly untouched by the frenetic pulse of the modern world.

Their unique self-governance, the “Dzumsa,” where disputes are settled with a quiet, democratic dignity, spoke volumes of a community deeply rooted in tradition. Buddhist chants echoed softly in the crisp air, a constant, comforting rhythm. Lachen’s charm lay in its simplicity. Rustic homes huddled together, a few shops doubling as havens against the biting cold, and the serene Lachen Monastery, perched like a silent guardian above, whispered tales of Guru Padmasambhava and the Nyingma tradition. This wasn’t a curated tourist experience; it was a raw, unfiltered glimpse into a way of life.

Our refuge, the “Holiday Hotel,” offered a warm welcome against the encroaching night. A sudden power outage, a blown transformer, plunged the village into darkness, a stark reminder of our remote location. Candlelight flickered, casting long shadows as we huddled together, the generator’s hum a temporary solace. A simple, nourishing meal warmed our bodies, a testament to the resilience of the mountain folk.

The next morning, a different kind of magic beckoned – the promise of Gurudongmar Lake. At 17,800 feet, one of the world’s highest and holiest lakes, it was a pilgrimage for both Buddhists and Sikhs, a place where Guru Padmasambhava and Guru Nanak Dev Ji were believed to have walked. Lachen, with its lack of further accommodations, served as the essential overnight stop, the gateway to this sacred journey.

A stroll through Lachen revealed its unassuming character. A single main road, barely half a kilometer long, was lined with more guesthouses and a few ration shops. Interestingly, every ration shop also stocked a variety of rum, a testament to the region’s biting cold. There was a quiet dignity, a sense of self-sufficiency, that permeated the air

The Lachen Monastery, a beacon of serenity, stood atop the village, offering panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. Built in 1858 and later expanded, it was a place where time seemed to fold in on itself. The silence was profound, broken only by the fluttering of prayer flags and the whisper of the wind. The Nyingma tradition, the oldest school of Tibetan Buddhism, founded by Guru Padmasambhava, permeated every corner of the monastery. It was a tangible connection to centuries of spiritual practice.

The journey to Lachen, from the verdant valleys of Gangtok, was more than just a road trip; it was an immersion into the very soul of Sikkim. From the cascading waterfalls to the charming villages, the ancient history to the warm hospitality of the people, it was a journey that left an indelible mark on my heart. And while Lachen may be a quiet, unassuming village, it serves as the threshold to some of the most breathtaking natural wonders, including Gurudongmar Lake and Chopta Valley, a tapestry of wildflowers in spring and a snow-covered wonderland in winter. It’s a must-visit destination for anyone seeking to experience the raw, untamed beauty of North Sikkim, a place where time slows, and the spirit soars.

If you’re planning your own journey through Sikkim, make sure to include Lachen in your itinerary. Trust me, it will be a trip you’ll never forget.

Until the next adventure, thanks for reading! Don’t forget to subscribe for more travel tales and tips!