For years, the name Itkhori lingered in the quiet corridors of my mind — a place half-remembered, half-dreamed, whispering of ancient gods and lost civilizations. The Bhadrakali Temple, nestled deep within the undulating heart of Jharkhand, held an inexplicable pull — as if the very soil there remembered something eternal. My son, Judhajit, shared that curiosity, though we rarely spoke of it aloud. It was a silent pact — a pilgrimage deferred by circumstance and a lingering unease about a region once shadowed by Maoist unrest.

But time, like the river Mahane that flows beside Itkhori, reshapes even the hardest stones. The combined efforts of the government and the indomitable spirit of Jharkhand’s people have transformed this once-forgotten region into a beacon of peace and spiritual resurgence. And so, on a softly drizzling morning in Ranchi, our long-cherished plan finally took form.

A Rain-Kissed Beginning

A fine drizzle followed us as we left Ranchi, the monsoon mist painting the highway in shades of grey and green. The rhythmic patter on the windshield mirrored the quiet uncertainty in our hearts. Would the weather turn us back?

But as we made the crucial turn off National Highway 20 — the old NH-33 — just beyond Hazaribagh, the clouds seemed to part as if in divine benediction. A sudden burst of golden sunlight flooded the valley, and both Judhajit and I exchanged a knowing smile. This journey, it seemed, was meant to be.

Arrival at the Sacred Confluence

The drive of roughly 150 kilometers felt shorter than expected, perhaps because anticipation lent a rhythm to the road. Itkhori lies cradled in the Chatra district, at the sacred confluence of the Mahane (or Mahanad) and Baksa rivers — where the air itself hums with an ancient resonance. As we approached, the landscape changed — fields gave way to clusters of temples and scattered archaeological remnants, silent sentinels guarding the stories of forgotten eras. It felt less like arriving at a destination and more like stepping into a living chronicle of India’s spiritual evolution.

Where Faiths Intertwine

The Itkhori Temple Complex — anchored by the awe-inspiring Bhadrakali Temple — is no ordinary shrine. It is a vivid illustration of India’s syncretic soul, where the divine finds expression in many forms. As we entered the complex, the scent of incense mingled with the earthy aroma of rain-soaked stone. The idol of Maa Bhadrakali, fierce yet motherly, sat enshrined in all her majesty, flanked by Shiva and Panchmukhi Hanuman. Yet what lay beyond was even more astonishing — a Buddhist stupa adorned with 1,008 miniature figurines of Buddha, and nearby, the sacred footprints (charan paduka) of the 10th Jain Tirthankara, Sheetalnath.

What was truly remarkable was the striking similarity in the aesthetic style of all these icons, each crafted from the same dark, enduring stone. It spoke of a remarkable era of religious coexistence during the Middle Ages, a time when different faiths seemed to breathe the same spiritual air, their artistic expressions intertwined. It was a powerful reminder of the inclusive traditions that have long defined the spiritual landscape of India.

In that moment, standing amidst those stones, I felt the pulse of India’s timeless spirit — inclusive, layered, and whole.

Echoes of History

History whispers that Lord Buddha once meditated in Itkhori on his journey to Bodh Gaya. The legend adds a poignant dimension — when his relatives came searching for him, unable to rouse him from his deep meditation, they lamented in Pali, “Iti khoi” — “We lost him here.” Over centuries, that phrase became the name of the place — Itkhori.

Excavations have revealed relics from 200 BCE to 1200 CE, echoing the Mauryan and Gupta eras. Yet, at the center of all this, the Bhadrakali Temple remains the eternal flame — a structure that has watched dynasties rise and fall since the 9th century CE.

Standing there, I could almost hear that ancient sorrow turned serenity — a quiet surrender to the inevitability of spiritual calling.

The Sacred Bazaar

The narrow street leading up to the temple was a riot of color and aroma. Stalls brimmed with puja samagri — incense, vermilion, flowers, sacred threads — while the air was thick with the fragrance of frying pakoras and sweet jalebis. Pilgrims jostled with tourists, laughter mingled with chants, and the whole scene felt like an overture before the main act of devotion.

It was heartening to see the Jharkhand Tourism Department’s efforts in preserving and beautifying the site. The grand entrance gate, reconstructed with intricate stonework, seemed to stand not merely as an architectural feature but as a symbolic threshold — from the mundane to the divine.

The Grace of Maa Bhadrakali

At the heart of the complex stood the sanctum of Maa Bhadrakali, her idol believed to date back to the ninth century CE, commissioned by King Mahendra Pal of Bengal-Bihar fame. The Brahmi inscription near her feet felt like an intimate message from the past. Crafted from Gomed (Hessonite) and Ashtadhatu (an alloy of eight sacred metals), the idol radiated both strength and serenity.

Bhadrakali — the fierce yet benevolent form of the Divine Mother — is worshipped here as the bestower of auspiciousness, embodying both destruction and creation, wrath and grace. The very name blends Bhadra (good fortune) and Kali (the remover of darkness). Before her, time itself seemed to pause.

The legends surrounding Maa Bhadrakali are captivating, each tale adding another layer to her mystique. One powerful narrative speaks of the demon Shankhachud, who, blessed by Lord Vishnu, was seemingly invincible to any mortal. When his reign of terror became unbearable for the gods, even the mighty Kartikeya, the commander of the divine forces, was defeated. It was then that Goddess Adishakti manifested in her fierce form as Bhadrakali. Though initially unable to vanquish the demon due to Vishnu’s boon, she began to decimate his vast army. Ultimately, it was Lord Shiva who brought an end to Shankhachud’s tyranny with his powerful trident, the Goddess having paved the way for his final defeat.

Yet, the idol of Maa Bhadrakali enshrined in the Itkhori temple exuded a gentle serenity, embodying the form of Maa Mangala Gauri, the giver of auspiciousness. Crafted from the precious Gomed (Hessonite) stone and Ashtadhatu (an alloy of eight sacred metals), the idol has miraculously withstood the ravages of time and the tumultuous currents of history.

Interestingly, we were told a poignant tale of loss and recovery. Originally, an eight-handed idol of Goddess Durga stood beside Bhadrakali, but tragically, both were stolen in 1968. While Maa Bhadrakali’s idol was eventually recovered, the Durga idol remains lost, a silent sorrow echoing within the temple walls.

Locals believe Itkhori to be the second most important Shakti Peeth in the Jharkhand–Bihar region after Chhinnamasta Temple at Rajarappa, followed by Ugratara Temple at Hunterganj — a sacred triangle of divine feminine energy.

Legends That Bind

Itkhori’s stories stretch beyond the Puranas into the epics. Local lore tells of Lord Rama, Sita, and Lakshmana halting here during their exile, and of King Yudhisthir spending time here during his agyatvas. Every corner seemed alive with mythology.

A marble hexagonal Shilapatta within the temple premises records some of this legacy — its engravings faint but immortal. The Markandeya Purana too finds resonance here, linking Itkhori to King Surath and Sage Medha Rishi, whose spiritual discourse on the Goddess Chandi unfolded by the banks of the Mahane River.

The Markandeya Purana, an ancient Hindu text, also weaves its narrative into the history of Itkhori. It speaks of King Surath, whose capital lay near the Kuleshwari hills near Hunterganj. Defeated by a foreign invader and stripped of his kingdom, he sought solace at the ashram of the wise sage Medha Rishi, located near the sacred confluence of the Mahane River. At the same time, a wealthy merchant named Samadhi Vaishya, who had been unjustly deprived of his wealth and abandoned by his family, also arrived at the ashram, his heart heavy with distress. Medha Rishi, through his profound wisdom, revealed the underlying causes of their suffering and advised them to seek the benevolent blessings of Goddess Bhadrakali.

Following the sage’s guidance, both King Surath and Samadhi Vaishya retreated to a dense forest near the confluence of Bhairavi and Damodar rivers (present day, Rajrappa) and engaged in intense prayers and penance, their devotion echoing through the ancient woods. Pleased by their unwavering faith, Maa Bhadrakali appeared before them in her radiant form. King Surath, with her divine blessings, regained his lost kingdom, while Samadhi Vaishya, seeking not material wealth but ultimate liberation (moksha), attained it through the Goddess’s grace.

We followed a worn path leading towards the gentle banks of the Mehane (Mahanad) River, my mind picturing the scene where Medha Rishi had recounted the sacred stories of Goddess Chandi to King Surath and Samadhi Vaishya, the flowing waters bearing silent witness to their spiritual awakening and the transformative power of faith.

Standing on that very riverbank, I imagined the scene — the murmuring water, the flicker of fire, the stillness of revelation.

Temples Within Temples

Adjacent to the Bhadrakali temple stood the remarkable Sahasra Lingam Shiva Temple. The Shiva linga enshrined within was truly unique, its surface intricately carved with no less than 1,008 miniature lingams, each a tiny representation of the divine. The Nandi bull, the sacred vehicle of Lord Shiva, positioned reverently outside the temple, was sculpted from a single, massive rock, a testament to the skill of ancient artisans. The number 1008 holds immense auspiciousness in Indian culture, and this lingam is revered as swayambhu, meaning self-manifested, believed to have arisen naturally from the earth.

Nearby, the Panchmukhi Hanuman Temple dazzled with its five-headed deity — Hanuman, Narasimha, Garuda, Varaha, and Hayagriva — embodying divine strength in manifold forms.

And then, the Buddha Stupa — part submerged, part revealed — a 15-foot structure adorned with serene Bodhisattvas and Buddhas, its top releasing droplets of water when lifted. I touched that water — cool, ancient, otherworldly. A silent mystery that refuses to be explained.

Nearby, a serene statue of Lord Buddha gazes into eternity, while the government’s plans for a grand new stupa promise to carry forward this legacy of harmony.

The Jain Connection

Adding yet another vibrant thread to Itkhori’s rich historical and spiritual tapestry was the discovery of its Jain heritage. In 2012, the Archaeological Survey of India unearthed an ancient Jain idol from beneath the temple compound, providing tangible proof of Jainism’s significant presence here long ago. A pair of ancient footprints enshrined nearby are believed to be those of the 10th Jain Tirthankara, Sheetal Nath.

In fact, Itkhori is believed by some to be his birthplace, further elevating its importance for Jain devotees. Unfortunately, we couldn’t view the stone bearing these sacred footprints, as it is said to be visible only in the afternoon light. However, we were informed about the ongoing construction of a grand Jain temple nearby, poised to become the second largest temple dedicated to Sheetal Nath, a magnificent testament to Itkhori’s enduring significance for the Jain faith.

Archaeology

The archaeological findings at Itkhori are a veritable treasure trove for historians and religious scholars, offering invaluable insights into the region’s multifaceted past. Numerous antiquities, including Buddha stupas dating back to the 9th century CE, along with a wealth of artifacts related to Jainism and Hinduism, have been unearthed through careful excavations. The sheer number of Buddhist relics – an astounding 417 idols and statues of Lord Buddha – discovered within the temple campus, now carefully preserved and displayed in a museum within the District Board campus, speaks volumes about the flourishing Buddhist presence in this region centuries ago.

The nearby village of Bihari has also yielded a wealth of significant Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, and many other valuable artifacts have been serendipitously found during well-digging and other activities in the region, each discovery adding another piece to the intricate puzzle of Itkhori’s past. The Bhadrakali Mandir Museum itself houses a selection of these precious sculptures, offering visitors a tangible glimpse into the artistic and religious landscape of bygone eras.

Itkhori stands today as a prominent religious site, a remarkable confluence point for Hinduism and Buddhism, with a significant and undeniable Jain connection. It serves not only as a revered place of worship and pilgrimage for devotees of various faiths but also as a site of immense historical exploration, drawing history enthusiasts and scholars eager to unravel its ancient secrets.

It was heartening to witness the ongoing and dedicated efforts to preserve and promote the rich cultural heritage of the Itkhori Temples. Conservation, restoration, and meticulous documentation initiatives are actively underway, ensuring that these architectural and spiritual treasures are safeguarded for future generations to appreciate and learn from. The active involvement of the government and local authorities in promoting tourism underscores the widespread recognition of Itkhori’s profound historical and cultural significance, a beacon of India’s diverse spiritual landscape.

Homeward Bound

As we drove back toward Ranchi, our hearts heavy yet content, we stopped for lunch at a rustic highway dhaba on the edge of the Hazaribagh Wildlife Sanctuary. The air was fragrant with local spices, and the simplicity of the meal — dal, roti, and a hint of mustard oil — felt like a benediction after a day of spiritual abundance. Our journey continued toward the Chhinnamasta Temple at Rajarappa, the second jewel in Jharkhand’s sacred Shakti circuit.

That evening, as the fading sun painted the horizon with hues of saffron and violet, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude — for the journey, for the land, and for the shared silence between father and son that had, in its own way, become a form of prayer.

The Eternal Resonance of Itkhori

Today, Itkhori stands as more than just a destination — it is a dialogue across time. A place where Buddha’s compassion, Bhadrakali’s power, and Sheetalnath’s serenity coexist within the same sacred breath. It reminds us that faith, at its purest, is never divisive — it is the meeting point of humanity and hope.

As we left, I turned back one last time. The temple spires glistened in the golden dusk, and a gentle breeze carried the sound of temple bells — ancient, eternal, and endlessly comforting.

ॐ जयंती मंगला काली भद्रकाली कपालिनी
दुर्गा क्षमा शिवा धात्री स्वाहा स्वधा नमोस्तुते।

Jai Maa Bhadrakali!