The very air in India during the festival season crackles with an almost palpable energy. It’s a time when the mundane dissolves into a vibrant tapestry of bright colours, shimmering lights, majestic floats, and soul-stirring ceremonies. And at the heart of it all, for many of us, lies Durga Puja – a celebration, a worship (Puja literally meaning just that), of the powerful Hindu Goddess Durga, the embodiment of Shakti, of divine feminine power. Magic, I truly believe, is the only word that can even begin to describe the sheer pageantry and fervent devotion that swirls around this grand festival.

Yesterday, while sifting through a treasure trove of old photographs, I stumbled upon snapshots from a Durga Puja we spent in Varanasi. With the festival just a few weeks away this year, those images acted like a key, unlocking a floodgate of cherished memories. While Kolkata undoubtedly reigns supreme as the most electrifying destination to witness the authentic Durga Puja festivities, back in 2008, we felt a pull towards Varanasi, a desire for a different kind of experience. And there were special reasons guiding our hearts.

Our revered Guruji, a guiding light in our lives, used to perform Durga Puja in Varanasi, and for years, his kind invitations had beckoned us. Adding to this, my in-laws reside in Prayagraj, a mere 120 kilometers from Varanasi. Their loving requests for us to spend at least one Vijaya Dashami with them had also resonated deeply. So, the decision blossomed naturally: let’s immerse ourselves in the Durga Puja fervor of Varanasi and then journey to Prayagraj for the auspicious Vijaya Dashami.

Varanasi, the spiritual nucleus of India, a city that breathes history and holiness with every inhale, also known by its ancient names of Benaras or Kashi, sits serenely on the banks of the sacred Ganga. It holds the esteemed position of being the holiest among the Sapta Puri, the seven sacred cities revered in both Hinduism and Jainism. Moreover, this ancient city played a pivotal role in the very genesis and development of Buddhism.

During Durga Puja, the narrow, winding lanes of Bengali Tola and the iconic ghats that line the Ganga come alive with a vibrant Bengali community. They leave no stone unturned in their passionate celebration of Durga Puja, painting the city with their unique traditions and joyous spirit.

Durga Puja is particularly renowned for its breathtakingly beautiful pandals – temporary structures erected to house the idols of the Goddess. Each year, the puja organizers unleash their creativity, surprising and delighting visitors with innovative themes and artistic concepts that often leave you spellbound. A simple rickshaw ride through the old city, perhaps near the bustling Godowliya Chowk, or a visit to the ancient Durga temple, is all it takes to be completely enveloped by the festive atmosphere.

Finding a decent hotel room in Varanasi during Durga Puja is no easy feat unless you’ve planned well in advance. Thankfully, we had secured our stay at the Taj Ganges Hotel. Nestled amidst the sprawling lawns of the Nadesar Palace, right on the banks of the Varuna river, it felt like an oasis of calm amidst the joyful chaos. The Nadesar Palace itself carries a rich history, nestled amongst mango orchards, fragrant marigold fields, and delicate jasmine blooms. Originally built by the East India Company and later acquired by Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh in the 19th century, the property is named after the goddess Nadesari, whose shrine graces its entrance.

Each morning, we would eagerly get ready and leave the tranquil embrace of the hotel, our destination the vibrant puja mandap – a temporary platform erected for the religious ceremonies. Navigating the narrow, often teeming streets of Varanasi, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, was an experience in itself. Even on regular days, the lanes are bustling, but during Durga Puja, the energy escalates tenfold. Traffic restrictions, with bamboo barricades strategically placed for crowd and traffic management, were a common sight. We often found ourselves traveling separately in auto-rickshaws, and sometimes even resorting to walking to reach our destination, the sheer volume of people a testament to the city’s devotion.

Our days would unfold at the puja mandap, immersed in the rituals, our senses captivated by the chanting, the aroma of incense, and the vibrant colours of the idols. We would eagerly await the Prasad and bhog – the food blessed by Maa Durga. Our Guruji, in his immense kindness, would arrange for the organizers to bring this sacred food to his special room at the Haveli. The centerpiece of the bhog platter was always the khichudi, or khichdi. This quintessential Bengali version was unlike any other khichdi I had ever tasted. It wasn’t just the simple rice and lentils; it was enriched with fragrant spices, sweet peas, earthy potatoes, juicy tomatoes, and sometimes even delicate florets of cauliflower.

In the evenings, our hearts full and our spirits uplifted, we would return to our hotel after witnessing the mesmerizing Sandhya Aarti, the evening prayer ceremony.

And then there was the unforgettable day of Maha Ashtami, the eighth day of the festival, when I had the profound privilege of participating in the Kumari Puja alongside our Guruji. Kumari Puja, also known as Kanya Pujan, is an integral and deeply moving part of Durga Puja. During this ritual, a young, unmarried pre-teenage girl is worshipped as a living embodiment of the Goddess. Held at the culmination of the Mahastami puja, the same sacred rituals and offerings that are made to Goddess Durga are lovingly offered to the Kumari. She is purified and sanctified through the chanting of holy mantras, creating an atmosphere of pure devotion and reverence.

According to Hindu scriptures, Kumari Puja commemorates the powerful legend of Goddess Kali vanquishing the demon Kolasur. It is said that Kolasur had once seized dominion over both the heavens and the earth, leaving the helpless deities to seek the aid of Mahakali. Responding to their desperate pleas, she manifested once more, taking the form of a young maiden, and in her divine power, slayed the formidable demon.

The afternoon of Mahanavami, the ninth day, was marked by the sacred Homa – a fire ritual. As the flames danced and the air filled with fragrant offerings, we felt a deep sense of purification and renewal. After the Homa, we sought the blessings of our Guruji, his words of wisdom and love a comforting balm to our souls, before returning to the quietude of our hotel.

That night, after a peaceful candlelight dinner at the hotel, we embarked on our journey to Prayagraj. This entire experience in Varanasi wasn’t just about celebrating a grand festival; it was a tapestry woven with threads of spiritual connection, the warmth of family bonds, and a deep immersion into the rich cultural heritage of India. As Durga Puja draws near once again this year, the nostalgic warmth of that magical time in Varanasi floods my heart, filling it with a quiet joy and eager anticipation for the festivities to come.