Some places defy time, space, and imagination. They transport you into another dimension—a parallel realm akin to the magic we seek in art, literature, and cinema. My visit to Jeita Grotto was one such surreal experience. Though I knew I was deep underground, I felt weightless, as if I were floating through space, surrounded by nature’s most exquisite sculptures.

Jeita Grotto

Jeita Grotto is a compound of interconnected limestone caves spanning an area of about nine kilometres. The two main caves visitors can explore are the upper gallery and the lower gallery. The upper gallery can be accessed on foot, while the lower gallery is explored by boat on an underground river.

Stalactites and stalagmites are the stars of this subterranean show. Formed over centuries by the slow drip of mineral-rich water, they create a mesmerizing landscape of elongated mineral formations. Stalactites hang like icicles from the ceiling, while stalagmites rise from the floor, creating a forest of stone.

The adventure began as I stepped into the entrance of Jeita Grotto, a magnificent limestone cave system tucked away in the Nahr al-Kalb valley, just 18 kilometres north of Beirut. The anticipation was palpable. I had seen pictures and read about it, and yet, nothing could have prepared me for what lay ahead.

Exploring the Upper Gallery

Upon reaching the base of the complex, we left our car in the parking area and purchased our tickets. We took a short ride up the mountain in one of four Austrian cable cars, which provided a stunning view over the river called Nahr al-Kalb (Dog River). The upper gallery, accessible by foot, features a walkway that takes visitors through a series of stalactites and stalagmites formations, beautifully illuminated to highlight their natural beauty.

The Jeita upper cave has an overall length of 2,130 metres (6,990 ft) of which only 750 metres (2,460 ft) are accessible to visitors; access to the remainder of the cave was restricted to prevent ecological damage which may occur due to the flocking tourists. 

One of the most notable features of the upper gallery is the Crystal Gallery, showcasing some of the most spectacular crystal formations in the grotto. These formations have been growing for thousands of years, their unique and mesmerizing appearance captivating visitors.

The first is called the White Chamber, and the second Red Chamber, due to the colour of the formations. White dripstones are pure calcite without defilement, the red colour is given by iron oxide (rust) in small amounts. In Lebanon, iron oxide has a red colour instead of the brown beige colour which is common in northern countries. The reason is a different chemical reaction caused by the high temperature which produces a different kind of iron oxide. The White Chamber is medium-sized but has the most impressive formations of the cave.

The grotto has strategically positioned coloured lights that showcase the stalactites and stalagmites in all their crystalline glory.

The Red Chamber is up to 106 metres (348 ft) high, and 30 metres (98 ft) to 50 metres (160 ft) wide. The third chamber is the biggest of all three chambers and has a height of more than 120 metres (390 ft). The longest stalactite in the world is located in Jeita’s White Chamber; it measures 8.2 metres (27 ft) long.

A Descent into the Unknown

One of the most enormous and attractive statues found in Lebanon is placed at the entrance of the lower grotto and is called “Guardian of Time” heightening 6.6 m and weighing 65 tons.

After exploring the upper gallery, we walked down to the entrance of the lower gallery, enjoying the natural beauty along the way. The lower gallery, located 60 meters below the upper gallery, is traversed by an underground river and a lake known as the “Dark Lake.” To see the lower cave, we took a boat on the crystal-clear underground river, an experience that felt like stepping into a fairytale. Gliding through this subterranean wonderland was surreal as if we were floating in space.

To see the lower cave, we took a boat on the crystal-clear underground river, which feels like a fairytale — there is no scale of time or space. It is another territory, a parallel one, similar to the one we seek in art and cinema. I knew I was underground but felt I was also floating in space.

The lower gallery’s “Thompson’s Cavern” is a massive hall with impressive speleothems such as the Eagle Obelisk stalagmite. Other halls include the Pantheon, Grand Chaos, and Shangri-la, each offering unique and awe-inspiring views of nature’s artistry.

The lower gallery which has an overall length of 6,200 metres (20,300 ft) is located 60 metres (200 ft) below the upper gallery. It is traversed by a smooth underwater river and a lake (the “Dark Lake”). The river is broken up by several small cataracts and rapids.

A Geological Marvel

Jeita Grotto is not just a visual wonder—it is a geological masterpiece. Formed within the Jurassic-era Keserouane strata, the cave system is a result of millions of years of rainwater dissolving limestone, carving intricate passageways and vast halls. The underground river flowing through the grotto is not just an aesthetic marvel; it is the principal source of Nahr al-Kalb, providing fresh water to over a million people in Beirut., which is the principal source of Nahr al-Kalb, providing fresh water to over one million people in Beirut.

This is not just a cave—it is a lifeline, a force of nature sustaining both beauty and existence.

A Treasure Rediscovered

Though traces of prehistoric habitation have been found, the modern world first rediscovered Jeita Grotto in 1836, when Reverend William Thomson stumbled upon its entrance. His curiosity led to one of the greatest natural discoveries in Lebanon. Over the years, explorers, scientists, and nature lovers have marvelled at its intricate formations, each visit revealing new wonders.

In 2002, Jeita Grotto received the Sustainable Development in Tourism award from French President Jacques Chirac, the United Nations World Tourism Organization, and the World Bank. It was also a finalist in the New7Wonders of Nature competition, an acknowledgement of its unparalleled beauty and ecological significance.

A Memory Etched in Stone

Photographs are not allowed inside the caverns, a rule aimed at preserving their pristine condition. Yet, I hardly needed a camera—every detail, every shimmering stalactite, every whisper of water against the cave walls is etched in my memory.

As I emerged from the grotto, stepping back into daylight, I felt as though I had just returned from another world—a place where nature had painted its own masterpiece in stone and water. Jeita Grotto is more than a destination; it is an experience, an immersion into the heart of the Earth’s artistry.

For those who seek wonder, for those who long to step beyond the ordinary, Jeita awaits—a hidden marvel, a timeless treasure, and a journey like no other.