There are journeys that stay etched in memory not for the grand sights they offer, but for the people who unexpectedly cross our path. On a recent visit to Prayagraj, I had the pleasure of meeting one such extraordinary individual — Rajendra Kumar Tiwari, fondly and famously known as “Dukanji”, the moustache dancer of India.

Yes, you read that right — a moustache dancer! His remarkable artistry has earned him a place in the Guinness Book of World Records (1995), the Limca Book of Records (1994), and the India Book of Records (2012). But, beyond the accolades lies a story of creativity, perseverance, and charm as unique as his art.

A Morning at the Triveni Sangam

My wife, Jagrata, and I were visiting my brother-in-law in Prayagraj for a short trip. As always, no visit to this ancient city feels complete without spending time at its most sacred spot — the Triveni Sangam, where the holy Ganga and Yamuna meet the mythical Saraswati.

The sight never fails to move me — the darker waters of the Yamuna gently merging with the lighter currents of the Ganga, as if two distinct melodies were blending into a timeless raga.

Winter mornings at the Sangam have their own rhythm. The air hums with temple bells and chants, while Siberian gulls wheel gracefully overhead, drawn to the waters during their long migratory sojourn. As our boat glided across the calm surface, we fed the gulls bits of bread and watched them swirl in a cloud of wings and white.

After taking a few ritual dips at the confluence — a moment of quiet reflection and renewal — we began our return to the ghat, content and serene.

The Discovery of Dukanji

On the way back, we stopped at a small kiosk for hot tea and crisp pakoras — an unmissable indulgence after a chilly boat ride. It was around ten in the morning when our boatman, Rishi Kumar, pointed towards a man sitting nearby and said with quiet pride, “That’s Rajendra Kumar Tiwari, Dukanji — the Guinness World Record holder, the famous moustache dancer of Prayagraj.”

Curiosity piqued, I walked up to him. He smiled warmly and handed me a card that bore his name and title — ‘Mooch Nritya Samrat of Sangam’, the undisputed king of moustache dancing.

The Art of Moustache Dancing

What began as a playful experiment during a power outage on a Diwali night became a lifelong pursuit of mastery. As he once told me, he had jokingly placed a burning candle in his moustache — and that spark (quite literally) lit the flame of a new art form.

Over the years, Dukanji perfected the moustache dance — a performance that has to be seen to be believed. With incredible control, he balances four burning candles nestled symmetrically in his thick, jet-black moustache, moving them in perfect rhythm with music.

He can make them sway, twirl, or “dance” — one at a time, in pairs, or all four together — using nothing but subtle facial movements. He even pairs them with unlit sticks for visual symmetry. It’s whimsical, daring, and oddly mesmerizing.

Born and raised in the Daraganj locality of Prayagraj, Dukanji was known in his youth as the local black sheep — indifferent to academics but bursting with creative energy. His father ran a small bookstore, where young Rajendra would sketch cartoons and sign them “Dukan ji,” a name that soon became his identity.

Beyond the Spotlight

But there’s more to him than his moustache and his fame. Beneath the flamboyance lies a compassionate activist. Dukanji is deeply involved in social campaigns — from AIDS awareness and cancer prevention to the Save Ganga movement, blood donation, and organ donation drives.

He zips around Prayagraj on his scooter, painted in vibrant colours and adorned with his own portrait — a living emblem of eccentric creativity and civic pride.

As we shared another cup of tea, he mentioned, with a twinkle in his eye, his upcoming appearance on India’s Got Talent, where he hoped to once again bring his unique performance to a national audience.

A Serendipitous Encounter

Soon, it was time to move on with our day and visit more relatives, but that short conversation with Dukanji left a lingering joy. There was something deeply inspiring about his spirit — a blend of artistry, humour, and purpose that transcended mere performance.

It’s not every day that you meet a Guinness World Record holder while sipping tea at a riverside ghat. But that’s the magic of travel — life’s best stories often unfold in the most unplanned moments.

As we parted, I asked for a selfie — a keepsake of this delightful encounter with the moustache dancer of Prayagraj.

And as I looked at that photograph later, I couldn’t help but smile — for in that twirl of his moustache and the sparkle in his eyes lived the very soul of India’s endless creativity.

Epilogue

As we drove away in our car from the ghat that morning, the image of Dukanji lingered in my mind — his story of moustache flickering with candlelight, his laughter rising above the river’s murmur. In him, I saw the spirit of India itself — inventive, resilient, and joyfully unorthodox. Sometimes, the most unforgettable journeys begin with nothing more than a cup of tea.