In Iraq, the close of a year is more than a date on the calendar—it’s a ritual of precision. December 31st marks the end of the financial year, and the days leading up to it are a storm of reconciliations, tallies, and final confirmations. For those of us in finance, the department only breathes easy once the books are closed and the numbers align.

On January 1st, 2023, the relief was palpable. The 2022 accounts were officially wrapped, and my colleague Ali Abdul Salam and I decided that the best way to welcome the new year was through indulgence. Tradition has it that beginning the year with sweets ensures the months ahead will be filled with sweet moments. Who was I to argue?

A Culinary Journey Begins

We eased into our celebration with something familiar—shawarma, the quintessential Middle Eastern street food. The wrap, juicy with spiced meat and crisp vegetables, was only the prelude. The real destination of our gastronomic pilgrimage lay in Al-Mansour, Baghdad: the iconic Al Halawany Sweets.

Established nearly ninety years ago, Al Halawany has earned its reputation as a household name. Known especially for its cheese-based desserts, the shop has been part of Baghdad’s sweet tooth for generations. Walking into the bright, bustling shop, I felt as though I was about to step into a world where tradition, craftsmanship, and indulgence met.

Halawet el-Jibn: The Whispering Dessert

On this visit, two Middle Eastern legends vied for our attention: Kunafeh and Halawet el-jibn.

While Kunafeh was a familiar friend, Halawet el-jibn was a mystery waiting to be discovered. Its name translates to “sweetness of cheese,” but no translation could prepare me for its delicate charm.

Made from a soft dough of semolina and cheese, Halawet el-jibn is carefully rolled around clotted cream, sprinkled with pistachios, and finished with a drizzle of sugar syrup. The first bite was pure enchantment—silky and light, with just the right balance of sweetness and richness. Unlike Kunafeh, which bursts with flavour and texture, Halawet el-jibn spoke in whispers. It was subtle, elegant, and quietly decadent.

In that moment, I realized this dessert was not meant to compete with Kunafeh’s grandeur. It carved its own place—less dramatic, but unforgettable in its gentle sophistication.

Kunafeh: A Timeless Favorite

And yet, Kunafeh remains the undisputed queen of Middle Eastern sweets. At Al Halawany, their version was flawless: golden, crisped kataifi strands encasing melted cheese, soaked in syrup that shimmered with sweetness but never overwhelmed.

The contrast was delightful—crunch on the outside, molten softness inside. It was indulgence at its finest, a reminder of why Kunafeh has endured across generations, crossing borders from Palestine and Lebanon to Syria and Iraq.

Coffee, Conversation, & Origins

Of course, no dessert feast is complete without coffee. The strong, cardamom-laced Arabic brew provided the perfect counterpoint to the richness on our plates. As we sipped, I found myself pondering the history of Halawet el-jibn.

Some trace its origins to Homs in Syria, others to northern Lebanon. Regardless of birthplace, it struck me that this dessert remains under-celebrated compared to its more famous counterparts like Kunafeh or Baklava. In fact, in many sweet shops, Halawet el-jibn isn’t displayed prominently at all—it waits quietly in refrigerated trays, a hidden gem for those who know to ask.

A Sweet Start to the Year

As Ali and I finished our feast, there was no doubt we had started the year in the sweetest way possible. More than just satisfying a craving, the experience reminded me of the joy that food brings when shared—with friends, with community, and even with tradition itself.

Here’s to more discoveries, more sweet indulgences, and more moments where food becomes memory.

Have you ever tasted Halawet el-jibn or Kunafeh? Which one stole your heart? I’d love to hear your stories and your favourite dessert spots!