If you’ve ever yearned to touch the very fabric of India’s ancient past—to feel the pulse of lives lived millennia ago—then let me take you to a place that etched itself into my memory: the Isko Caves in Jharkhand. These aren’t just rock formations. They’re a vibrant canvas painted by prehistoric hands, whispering tales of early human existence and spiritual continuity.

A Decade-Long Calling

My first brush with the legend of Isko’s rock art was nearly ten years ago. The mental images it conjured—ochre figures frozen in time, bearing witness to forgotten rituals—sparked an immediate desire to visit. My son, Judhajit, shared this fascination, and we made tentative plans. But life, as it often does, swept them aside. Still, the allure of Isko remained—a persistent whisper in the back of my mind.

Finally, on February 2nd, Judhajit had a rare off-day. We knew the time had come to answer that ancient call.

Unveiling the Historical Significance

The Isko Caves, also known as Isko Rock Art Site, are located near the village of Isko in the Barkagaon block of Hazaribagh district, approximately 45 kilometres from the district headquarters. Situated on the Hazaribagh Plateau at an elevation of around 600 metres above sea level, the site is surrounded by dense sal forests and rolling hills typical of the Chotanagpur Plateau region.

Discovered in the 1980s by local archaeologists, the Isko Caves gained prominence in the 1990s through systematic surveys by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and state departments. It was in 1991 that environmentalist Bulu Imam brought these natural shelters to the world’s attention.

Radiocarbon dating and stylistic analysis indicate that the artworks span multiple historical periods. The earliest paintings, dating back to the Mesolithic Era (circa 8000–4000 BCE), feature simple geometric patterns and animal motifs, reflecting the subsistence lifestyle and symbolic expressions of early hunter-gatherer communities.

Subsequent layers, attributed to the Chalcolithic and later periods, suggest that the site continued to be used and embellished over time, with artistic activity possibly extending up to 1000 BCE or beyond.

This overlapping of styles and techniques highlights a long tradition of cultural continuity and evolving artistic expression across millennia. Imagine standing in the very space where humans sought shelter and expressed their world nearly eleven thousand years ago!

Isko is part of a broader network of prehistoric rock art sites in Jharkhand, including nearby Satpahar and Thethangi, collectively forming one of India’s richest concentrations of Mesolithic art outside Bhimbetka (a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Madhya Pradesh).

A Living Tradition

India’s connection to its ancient past isn’t confined to museum exhibits. In regions like Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Orissa, and Karnataka, ethnic communities still practice forms of rock art during rituals. Think of the vibrant handprints adorning gates during births and marriages—a direct link to the artistic impulses of their prehistoric forebears.

The star attraction of Isko is its vivid rock paintings, executed primarily in red ochre (hematite) with occasional white and yellow pigments derived from local minerals. These were applied using fingers, twigs, or animal hair brushes on the rough sandstone surfaces.

Isko lies in the ancestral lands of the Oraon and Munda tribes, whose oral traditions echo themes in the paintings—hunting lore, nature worship, and seasonal festivals. Hazaribagh, home to the Isko Caves, is a cultural mosaic. Villages here are adorned with mural traditions like Khovar and Sohrai, each stroke imbued with religious and socio-cultural significance. These contemporary art forms echo the motifs found in the caves, forming an unbroken thread of heritage stretching back millennia.

The Journey to Isko Caves

Our journey to Isko on that February morning was a family affair. My daughter-in-law, Tania, joined Judhajit and me, our anticipation building with every kilometre. Despite my years of longing to visit, this was our first attempt, and we wisely sought the guidance of Subhashis Das, a celebrated explorer of megalithic sites, to navigate the less-trodden paths.

The drive from Hazaribagh was a balm to the soul, a tapestry of verdant landscapes and winding roads unfolding before us. As we neared Barkagaon, we relied on the kindness of locals for directions, their insights proving far more reliable than the sporadic and often misleading signage.

“Barkagaon?” a shopkeeper echoed, his eyes crinkling at the corners. “Ah, Isko is that way,” he gestured with a knowing smile, recounting his own visit just days prior. While Google Maps offered a digital route, the wisdom of the local community proved invaluable in this rural heartland. It struck me then how much the Jharkhand government could do to promote this incredible heritage by simply installing adequate signage. There were moments of confusion, a government sign pointing one way while Google suggested another. Trusting the local advice, and thankfully, Google’s eventual accuracy, we finally reached Isko village.

A welcoming gate marked the entrance, and we drove along a short metalled road that abruptly ended at a small ditch. A few cemented chairs sat forlornly, marking the limit of our vehicular journey.

Our destination lay further ahead, nestled amidst a landscape of rocky outcrops and the graceful sway of Sal trees. And yet, even here, at the very threshold of this historical wonder, there was no sign to guide us towards the cave.

The Trek to Marwadwar Cave

With patchy network coverage rendering Google Maps unreliable, we ventured on foot, following a faint trail into the forest. The air was alive with rustling leaves and birdsong. After a long walk, we emerged onto a rocky expanse—a natural vantage point with a sliver of network. A quick check confirmed our fears: we had veered off course.

Retracing our steps, we encountered a local villager emerging from the dense foliage. Hope surged within us. “The path to the cave?” we inquired. He readily agreed to guide us, explaining that the cave we were seeking, adorned with the famed rock art, was about a kilometre from another nearby rock shelter known as Marwadwar.

Marwadwar, he said, was steeped in legend—a haven for a newlywed king and queen. Nearby flowed the Marwatari river, its name forever linked to the cave where their union took place. Later, I recalled Mr. Das’s insight: such caves symbolised the “womb of the Great Mother,” remnants of ancient fertility cults.

Even today, locals revere these caves as sacred spaces, inhabited by spirits and deities. Rituals and prayers are still offered here, especially during festivals—a testament to the enduring spiritual connection to this ancient land.

Trek to Isko Caves

After exploring the shelter of Marwadwar, we made our way towards Isko village, our quest for the rock art rekindled. A group of children were playing by the roadside, their laughter echoing in the tranquil air. I approached them, inquiring about the location of the rock art site. Their innocent eyes lit up, and they eagerly pointed us in the right direction. Not only that, but three of them – Jiwan Munda, Pawan Munda, and Hans Munda – volunteered to be our guides, leading us through the winding paths of their village towards the ancient masterpieces.

Witnessing Ancient Masterpieces

And then, there it was. Standing before the 10,000-year-old paintings, bathed in the soft glow of the afternoon sun, felt like stepping through a portal in time. The rock face was a canvas teeming with life – depictions of ritual dances, hunting expeditions, and scenes of daily existence, all rendered in vibrant natural pigments of red ochre, yellow ochre, white kaolin, and black manganese.

The artistry was breathtaking, the expressions captured in these ancient strokes resonating with a profound sense of human experience and spirituality. It was a privilege to witness such enduring creativity, a testament to the rich cultural and social lives of those who walked this land so long ago.

The rock paintings of Isko Caves are among the oldest and finest examples of prehistoric art in India. They depict various scenes of hunting, fishing, dancing, fighting and ritual activities. The paintings are made with natural pigments such as red ochre, yellow ochre, white kaolin and black manganese. The paintings show a high degree of artistic skill and expression, as well as a rich cultural and social life of the ancient people.

A Magico-Ritual Connection

Some rock art sites (like Thethangi, Isko, Rahaman, and Sidpa) of North Karanpura valley also show the magico-ritual connection between present-day ethnic communities and the rock art site. These caves are more than historical sites; they are sacred spaces for the local community, who regard them as the abode of ancestral spirits and deities. Rituals are still performed here, blending ancient beliefs with contemporary practices.

As Shubham Rajak eloquently puts it, the anthropomorphic figures found in Isko and other sites like Thethangi, Rahaman, and Sidpa in the North Karanpura valley likely held multiple meanings for their creators, representing shamans, ancestors, deities, and mythical characters all at once. The fact that similar figures and symbols persist in the ethnic art of the region provides an invaluable link, allowing us to interpret the archaeological record through the lens of living cultural traditions.

The Significance of Isko Caves

The Isko Caves hold immense significance for both archaeology and anthropology. They offer tangible evidence of prehistoric human habitation in Jharkhand, and the rock art provides crucial insights into the evolution of human creativity and communication. These caves serve as a powerful reminder of the ingenuity and adaptability of our early ancestors, who found ways to express their world and document their experiences through the enduring power of art.

Preserving the Heritage

While the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and dedicated conservationists like Subhashis Das have made efforts to protect this invaluable heritage, much more needs to be done. Declared a national monument on World Heritage Day, April 18, 2023, the Isko Caves deserve greater awareness and responsible tourism to ensure their long-term preservation. It is our collective responsibility to respect the sanctity of the site, refraining from touching the delicate paintings, avoiding littering, and minimising our impact on this fragile ecosystem.

A Visit to Remember

In an era of digital distractions, the Isko Caves invite reflection on humanity’s artistic origins. Far from crowded tourist circuits, they offer solitude amid nature, where one can trace fingers over 10,000-year-old handprints and ponder the universal human impulse to create. As Jharkhand pushes for greater recognition of its heritage, Isko stands poised to join India’s archaeological map— a must-visit for anyone seeking the roots of civilisation in the subcontinent’s tribal soul.

As we bid farewell to Isko, a profound sense of awe mingled with a renewed commitment to protect and cherish this incredible heritage. The whispers from the stone echoed in our hearts, a reminder of the long and fascinating journey of humankind on this ancient land.