Our final sunrise in the Darjeeling district painted the sky in hues of apricot and rose, a gentle farewell from the tranquil embrace of Takdah. While our cozy homestay had woven its peaceful spell, the siren call of Ghum’s historical heights and Darjeeling’s vibrant heart was too strong to resist. With a bittersweet mix of excitement and the looming sense of departure, we embarked on a day trip, determined to squeeze every last drop of magic from this breathtaking corner of West Bengal.

Ghum: Where History Breathes at the Highest Altitude

Our first destination was Ghum, a name that resonated with the whispers of railway history. As we ascended, the air grew crisper, carrying with it the faint scent of pine and damp earth. Reaching Ghum Railway Station, perched proudly at 2,258 meters (7,407 feet), felt like stepping onto a historical stage. This isn’t just any railway station; it’s the highest in India and a vital thread in the fabric of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Standing on the platform, I could almost picture the bygone era when the arrival of the train here in 1881 revolutionized travel. Before the iron horse snaked its way through these hills, a journey from Kolkata to Darjeeling was a week-long affair! The DHR dramatically shortened that, eventually making Ghum a mere 3-4 hour ride from Siliguri. It’s a testament to human ingenuity, this narrow-gauge railway clinging to the steep slopes, a living, breathing antique.

Right beside the station, the Ghum Railway Museum beckoned. Stepping inside was like entering a time capsule. Dusty but precious relics lined the walls – tickets dating back to 1883, their faded ink telling tales of journeys past, and photographs capturing the railway in its infancy. But the star of the show was undoubtedly the iconic steam engine, “Baby Sevok,” a majestic iron beast that once roared through these very hills. Imagine a trip from Darjeeling to Ghum back then cost a mere 66 paise! It’s humbling to see how much the world has changed, yet the charm of this little railway remains timeless.

As we were absorbing the history, the heavens decided to join our exploration, unleashing a sudden and torrential downpour. We huddled inside the museum, watching through the misty windows as the landscape outside blurred into an impressionistic painting. The rain had a strange way of amplifying the moment, making us feel like characters in an old film, caught in a dramatic yet beautiful scene.

Patience, however, is a virtue often rewarded in the mountains. As the downpour softened to a drizzle, we decided to brave the elements and walk towards the famed Old Ghum Monastery. But the rain had other plans, intensifying once more. We sought refuge in a small roadside shop, the kind with its open front displaying an array of local goods. From our sheltered vantage point, we watched a DHR train chug its way from Darjeeling towards Ghum station, its whistle echoing through the rain-soaked air.

The rain showed no signs of abating, and our eagerness to explore outweighed our desire to stay dry. We armed ourselves with colorful umbrellas and continued our walk. And then, as if the weather gods were having a bit of fun, the rain turned into a sudden hailstorm! We had to duck into another shop, the tiny hailstones pelting the tin roof with a surprisingly loud drumming sound. It was a chaotic yet somehow exhilarating experience, a reminder of nature’s unpredictable beauty.

The Old Ghum Monastery

Finally, as the hailstorm subsided, leaving behind a glistening landscape, we made our way to the Old Ghum Monastery, also known as Yiga Choeling. The walk, though punctuated by rain and hail, was surprisingly beautiful, the washed greenery looking vibrant and fresh. This monastery, belonging to the Gelukpa or Yellow Hat sect, exudes a sense of profound peace. Its external structure, established in 1850 by the Mongolian monk Sokpo Sherab Gyatso, stands as a testament to enduring faith.

Inside, the towering 15-foot statue of the Maitreya Buddha commanded our attention. Maitreya, the Buddha of the future, a figure of hope and enlightenment in Buddhist philosophy. Learning about his significance – the prophecy of his arrival when the teachings of the current Buddha have faded – added a layer of depth to our visit. It was a moment of quiet contemplation, a stark contrast to the dramatic weather we had just encountered.

According to Buddhist tradition, Maitreya is a bodhisattva who is prophesied to appear on Earth, achieve complete Enlightenment, and teach the Dharma. According to scriptures, Maitreya’s teachings will be similar to those of Gautama Buddha. The arrival of Maitreya is prophesied to occur during an era when the teachings of Gautama Buddha have been forgotten by most of the terrestrial world. Maitreya is the earliest bodhisattva around whom a cult developed and is mentioned in scriptures from the 3rd century CE. He was accepted by all schools of Buddhism.

Batasia Loop: An Engineering Marvel Amidst the Mist

Our next stop was the iconic Batasia Loop, a place I had read so much about. This isn’t just a railway track; it’s an engineering marvel, a spiraling loop designed to help the DHR train gracefully navigate a steep descent. Commissioned in 1919, it’s a testament to the ingenuity of the railway’s builders.

The Batasia Loop is also a poignant memorial to the Gorkha soldiers of the Indian Army who were martyred in the Indian independence movement. A cenotaph stands proudly, a reminder of their sacrifice. On a clear day, the loop offers breathtaking panoramic views of Mt. Kanchenjunga and the snow-capped Himalayan peaks. Sadly, the persistent clouds and mist played hide-and-seek, obscuring the majestic panorama. However, witnessing the loop itself, the way the railway line curved and descended almost imperceptibly, was fascinating in its own right. It was a tangible representation of the challenges overcome to connect these remote hills.

Darjeeling: A Hill Station Alive with History & Flavours

Finally, we arrived in Darjeeling, the quintessential hill station, its name synonymous with rolling tea gardens and colonial charm. By the time we reached the bustling Chowrasta square, it was around 3:30 PM. This central plaza, historically a fashionable gathering place during the British era, still retains its lively atmosphere, now a melting pot of locals and tourists.

The Chowrasta (Intersection where four roads meet) is a historical public square in Darjeeling. Located in the heart of the town, it was the fashionable place of assembly for residents and visitors in the 18th century. Chowrasta is situated on the ridge of the Darjeeling hill range and is now a focal centre of tourist attraction and a popular spot for the residents and tourists to assemble, leisurely or just stroll in the tranquility that that part of the hill station offers.

A prominent golden statue of the Nepali poet Shri Bhanubhakta Acharya stands sentinel, a tribute to the man widely regarded as the first poet in the Nepali language and best known for his translation of the epic Ramayana. His presence adds a touch of cultural gravitas to the vibrant square.

Glenary’s

Our stomachs were rumbling, and there was only one place on our minds: Glenary’s. This beloved bakery and cafe, a Darjeeling institution since 1885, exuded an old-world charm from the moment we stepped inside. The aroma of freshly baked goods filled the air, mingling with the comforting buzz of conversation. The vintage rooftop setting offered glimpses of the town, even through the lingering mist.

We indulged in a hearty late lunch, a satisfying mix of local and continental fare. For the men, a touch of Honeybee brandy warmed us from the inside out, while the ladies opted for refreshing Virgin Mojitos. The food was indeed delicious, the portions generous, and surprisingly, the prices were reasonable. Glenary’s isn’t just a place to eat; it’s an experience, a step back in time, a taste of Darjeeling’s enduring heritage.

A Stroll Through Darjeeling’s Streets

We strolled through the lively lanes, browsing the shops filled with colorful woolens, intricate handicrafts, and, of course, the fragrant Darjeeling tea. We picked up a few packets and some souvenirs, tangible reminders of our Himalayan sojourn. We eventually made our way back to Chowrasta, now bathed in the soft glow of streetlights. The iconic fountain in the center stood as a silent witness to the day’s comings and goings. Even in the fading light, the charm of Darjeeling was undeniable, a blend of colonial history and vibrant modern life nestled amidst the majestic hills.

A Fond Farewell to the Hills

Our day trip to Ghum and Darjeeling was a whirlwind of experiences – the historical echoes at the highest railway station, the spiritual serenity of the ancient monastery, the engineering marvel of the Batasia Loop shrouded in mist, and the vibrant energy and culinary delights of Darjeeling. Each moment, whether touched by rain or bathed in the evening light, wove itself into the rich tapestry of our travel memories.

The next morning, as we bid a heartfelt farewell to the warm hospitality of the Lama family at Rose Villa and began our journey towards Bagdogra airport, our hearts were full. Our adventure through Takdah, Tinchuley, Triveni, Lamahatta, Ghum, and Darjeeling had been an unforgettable journey, a testament to the timeless allure and captivating beauty of these Himalayan gems. We left with stories to tell, photographs to share, and a longing to return to these misty mountains someday.