The crisp winter air of late December carried the promise of adventure as we embarked on a long-anticipated road trip from Ranchi to Puri. This journey was more than just a year-end getaway; it was a confluence of aspirations—Jagrata’s heartfelt desire to seek blessings at the Jagannath Temple, Judhajit’s love for long drives, and Tania’s dream of seeing the sea for the first time.

With excitement brimming, we finalized our plans by November, securing our stay from December 30, 2024, to January 2, 2025. Our trusty Maruti Ciaz was ready, and so were we, eager to traverse the 565 km that lay ahead.

Day 1: The Road Beckons

Setting Off from Ranchi

The first light of December 30 saw us rolling out of Ranchi at 6:15 AM, the chill in the air contrasting with the warmth of our anticipation. Google Maps estimated a 12-hour drive, but we knew better—tea breaks, meal stops, and unexpected detours were all part of the adventure.

Traversing Jharkhand’s Highways

Our initial stretch along NH 43 was smooth, and we halted at Chowka, 90 km in, for a steaming cup of tea that revived our spirits.

Switching to NH 18 at Chandil, we passed through Jamshedpur, Ghatsila, and Dhalbhumgarh before reaching Bahragora, Jharkhand’s last town before Odisha.

Crossing into Odisha

The road from Bahragora to Jamshola, our entry into Odisha, was a test of patience, with potholes ensuring we felt every inch of the transition. At Sathi Hotel, we paused for breakfast after covering 209 km—hot aloo parathas, though delayed due to a fresh batch of atta being sourced, were well worth the wait.

Into Odisha’s Heartland

Onward through NH 49 and NH 18, we bypassed Baripada, missing its famed Mudhi Mangsho, but pressed ahead toward Baleshwar. The Baleshwar-Kharagpur Expressway, with its diversions and uneven stretches, slowed us considerably. Multiple tea breaks at Jagannathpur and Bandalo near a toll plaza fueled our resolve.

Hunger struck as we approached Cuttack, yet finding an eatery was tougher than expected. At nearly 5 PM, a roadside shack post-Mahanadi River came to our rescue, serving simple but satisfying veg thalis.

Puri at Last

After lunch, we resumed our journey, passing through Bhubaneswar and embarking on NH 316 towards Puri.

As night descended, we neared Puri, navigating NH 316 with growing anticipation. However, the city’s narrow alleys, compounded by Google Maps’ dubious routing, led to some frantic phone calls and local guidance before we finally reached Shri Gajapati Hotel at 8 PM.

Our exhaustion was overshadowed by relief, but unfortunately, the hotel fell short of our expectations. While new, it lacked proper housekeeping, and the cleanliness of the toilet was a significant concern. With limited options due to the holiday rush, we reluctantly decided to stay for the night. However, a positive development emerged—Judhajit secured the night shift on January 3rd, allowing us to extend our trip to Chandipur. I immediately booked two rooms at Purbi Beach Resort, promising a delightful change of scenery.

Day 2: Faith, Waves, and Reflection

Determined to beat the throngs, we set off at 5:30 AM for Shree Jagannath Temple, located just a kilometre from our stay along the famed Grand Road, the heart of Puri’s Rath Yatra festivities.

A Sacred Morning at Jagannath Temple

As expected during the year-end pilgrimage season, the temple was bustling with devotees. The crowd was being meticulously managed by the police, who allowed people in batches through the Singh Dwar (Lion’s Gate). The approach to the temple required climbing 22 steps, which hold spiritual significance, symbolizing the ascension to divinity.

The sacred Baisi Pahacha (22 steps) leading into the temple held profound significance—each step is an allegory of human evolution and spiritual awakening. As we ascended, a quiet reverence settled over us. Each step is believed to represent a stage in human evolution, encompassing the seven Lokas (worlds), seven Patalas (underworlds), and eight Baikunthas (abodes of Vishnu) as described in ancient scriptures.

Some interpretations link these steps to the 22 aspects of human habits (Para Prakruti) outlined in Puranas and Upanishads, suggesting a journey of self-reflection and spiritual purification. Theologically, the 21 steps are seen as representing the 21-day period during which the Brahma (the supreme reality) is infused into the Daru Murti (wooden idols) of the deities. The final step symbolizes the ultimate union with the divine.

Furthermore, the 22 steps are often interpreted as a symbolic representation of the 18 Puranas and 4 Vedas, emphasizing the intellectual and spiritual depth of the journey towards the Lord. Thus, the Baisi Pahacha is not merely a physical ascent but a profound spiritual experience, inviting devotees to contemplate their own journey towards enlightenment as they ascend towards the sacred presence of Lord Jagannath.

Reaching the temple, we were met with a slight disappointment – the main doors of the sanctum were closed for an hour. Though initially disheartened, we used this time to explore the sprawling temple premises, which are steeped in history and devotion.

Exploring the Temple Premises

We began by visiting the Shaktipeeth Vimla Devi Temple, also known as the Bimala Temple, which is a revered Hindu shrine dedicated to Goddess Vimala, located within the hallowed precincts of the Jagannath Temple complex. It holds immense significance as one of the four Adi Shaktipeethas, considered among the most ancient and sacred of the 51 Shaktipeethas, revered sites associated with the divine feminine. The temple’s serene atmosphere makes it a particularly auspicious site for meditation and spiritual contemplation.

Next, we walked around the Grand Kitchen, the sacred space where the Mahaprasad (holy offering) is prepared. This kitchen is a marvel of tradition and efficiency. The sight of dedicated sevayats (temple workers) performing their roles with seamless coordination was inspiring. From drawing water from wells to cooking over firewood in earthen pots, every task is done by hand, adhering to age-old customs. The quiet diligence of the workers reflected their devotion and discipline.

The Divine Darshan

When we returned to the gate of the Garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum), the doors had just reopened. The atmosphere was charged with reverence and excitement as devotees surged forward for their turn to see the Lord. We joined the crowd and, after a short wait, were blessed with a darshan of Lord Jagannath, along with His elder brother Balabhadra and sister Subhadra.

Standing before the deities, adorned in vibrant colours and majestic ornaments, was a deeply spiritual experience. The aura of the sanctum, the chants of the priests, and the collective devotion of the crowd made this moment profoundly moving. It felt as though time had paused, allowing us to fully absorb the divine energy of the place.

The visit to the Jagannath Temple was more than a ritual; it was an experience of faith, tradition, and unity. The sacred ambience of the temple, intricate architecture, and people’s devotion left an indelible mark on our hearts. The temple is not just a place of worship; it is a testament to Odisha’s enduring spirit of devotion and rich cultural heritage.

After the spiritually uplifting visit to the Jagannath Temple, we stepped out into the vibrant streets of Puri. The morning air was filled with the aroma of freshly prepared breakfasts from roadside eateries. We enjoyed a hearty breakfast and returned to our hotel, feeling both blessed and hungry after the early morning temple visit.

Golden Beach: Tania Meets the Sea

After breakfast and a short rest, we made our way to Golden Beach—a Blue Flag-certified haven of pristine sands and rolling waves. For Tania, this was a moment long dreamed of. As she stood at the shore, the vastness of the sea stretching endlessly before her, the sheer awe was evident. The waves, the salt in the air, the rhythmic pull of the tide—it was a first-time encounter that words could barely capture.

We let ourselves be children again, splashing in the waves, surrendering to the sea’s embrace. For Tania, seeing the sea for the first time was an emotional moment. Judhajit and Tania enthusiastically played in the water, while I soaked in the serene beauty of the waves.

A Divine Meal: Mahaprasad

Returning to the hotel, we eagerly awaited the arrival of Mahaprasad, the holy offering from the Jagannath Temple. Served on banana leaves and eaten while seated on the floor, the meal was an experience in itself. The Mahaprasad included an array of simple yet flavourful dishes: dal, rice, greens, mixed vegetables, malpua (sweet pancake), and rabri (sweet, condensed milk dessert). There was an unmistakable sanctity in its flavours, each bite a blessing.

Evening at the Beach: Seafood and Souvenirs

After a refreshing nap, we ventured back to the beach for an evening of indulgence. The shacks lining the shore offered a variety of fried veggies and seafood, from crispy chillies, brinjals, and prawns to flavourful fish fry. The aroma of the freshly fried delicacies was irresistible.

Sitting by the sea, relishing the food, and watching the waves under the moonlit sky was a magical experience.

We also explored the souvenir shops, picking up trinkets and small statues of Lord Jagannath to take home as memories of this beautiful trip.

Dinner and Welcoming the New Year

For dinner, we chose a nearby restaurant that specialized in Chinese cuisine. The warm soup, noodles, and stir-fried dishes provided a delightful contrast to the day’s traditional flavours. Returning to the hotel, we prepared for the New Year’s Eve celebrations.

As the clock struck midnight, the four of us were together in our cosy hotel room, reflecting on the day’s blessings and joys. The sound of fireworks from the beach echoed in the distance, adding to the festive spirit. It was a simple yet meaningful way to welcome the New Year, surrounded by family and the love we share.

Planning for Chilika Lake

Before retiring for the night, we finalized our plan to visit Chilika Lake the next day. Chilika Lake is Asia’s largest brackish water lagoon and the second-largest coastal lagoon, covering an area of over 1,100 square kilometres. It is located along the eastern coast of Odisha, India, and serves as a crucial wintering ground for migratory waterfowl.

Because it was New Year’s Day, vehicle entry into Puri was restricted, so we booked a hired car for the trip. With the excitement of another adventure ahead, we drifted off to sleep, content with the day’s memories and eager for what lay ahead.

Day 3: Exploring Chilika’s Wonders

The third day of our Puri trip began with anticipation as we prepared for our visit to Chilika Lake, Asia’s largest brackish water lagoon. We were ready by 8 AM, as agreed upon with the driver, but he arrived late due to traffic jams caused by roadblocks in the city. It was New Year’s Day, and the streets were bustling with pilgrims flocking to the Jagannath Temple. We learned that Lord Jagannath was awake the entire night, welcoming the countless devotees who arrived after midnight to seek His blessings—a testament to the divine energy of Puri.

The Journey to Chilika Lake

Once the driver arrived, we set off for Chilika Lake. The city diversions and festive traffic added time to our journey, but the lively atmosphere kept us engaged. We stopped at a roadside restaurant for a sumptuous breakfast, enjoying piping hot chhole bhature, Dosa, Idli, and tea. The hearty meal fueled us for the adventure ahead.

Reaching the Jetty

By mid-morning, we arrived at the jetty on Chilika Lake, where the calm, expansive waters greeted us. The cool breeze carried the scent of the lake and the sight of boats bobbing gently on the water added to the excitement. After some negotiation, we booked a private boat for four hours. The package included a tour of the lake and the highlight — dolphin sighting.

A Serene Boat Ride and Dolphin Sightings

Chilika was an expanse of shimmering blue, teeming with migratory birds. Seagulls swooped gracefully, catching the feed we tossed.

As our boat glided across the shimmering waters of Chilika Lake, we were awestruck by its vastness. The horizon seamlessly blended with the water, creating a serene and surreal vista. Flocks of seagulls soared above us, adding life to the tranquil scene. We couldn’t resist buying packets of feed to toss to them, watching in delight as they played and danced around our boat. It was an unforgettable experience.

After a couple hours of boat cruise, we arrived at the dolphin sighting area, where a few moments of quiet anticipation paid off as we spotted the playful Irrawaddy dolphins (Orcaella brevirostris). Irrawaddy dolphins are a unique species of dolphin primarily inhabiting coastal and freshwater regions of the Bay of Bengal and Southeast Asia, including the Mekong River. Recognisable by their rounded foreheads, absence of a beak, and playful nature, these dolphins are currently classified as endangered. Their declining numbers are attributed to habitat loss, pollution, and the impacts of fishing activities. Their sudden appearances and graceful dives were a joy to witness. Tania’s enthusiasm was infectious as she excitedly pointed out each sighting, while Judhajit relentlessly tried to capture every moment with his camera.

Island Stop and Seafood Delights

A stop at a tiny island shack introduced us to the freshest seafood imaginable—prawns and pomfret fry, spiced just right. The taste of the ocean lingered long after the last bite.

A Relaxing Return

After our tranquil boat ride on Chilika Lake, our next stop was a local restaurant where we indulged in a sumptuous seafood lunch. The spread was a treat for the taste buds, featuring crabs, prawns, and Parshe fish, cooked with authentic coastal flavours. The fresh, flavorful dishes perfectly complemented the serene experience we had just enjoyed at the lake.

Alarnath Temple: A Divine Stop

On our way back to Puri, we stopped at the Alarnath Temple, a revered shrine dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The temple holds special significance during the Anavasara period, when Lord Jagannath is believed to rest, and devotees come here for darshan. We were fortunate to witness the Aarati ceremony, which was a mesmerizing experience with the rhythmic chants, the sound of bells, and the glow of oil lamps filling the sanctum with divine energy.

Returning to Puri

As we approached Puri, the city was abuzz with the New Year crowd. At one of the entry points, the police stopped our car due to traffic restrictions. We left the vehicle and completed the journey to our hotel via an autorickshaw, navigating through the lively streets teeming with pilgrims.

Evening Walk to Jagannath Temple and Sweet Shopping

After a short rest at the hotel, Judhajit, Tania, and I decided to visit the Jagannath Temple once more. Although the temple was crowded with devotees, we stood outside the gates and offered our prayers, feeling the spiritual essence of the place even from afar.

Before returning to the hotel, we visited the famous Nrusingha shop near Dakshin Dwar to buy Khaja, the iconic sweet of Puri. This crispy, sugar-coated delicacy is a must-have for anyone visiting the city. Though there are many shops with the name “Nrusingha,” the one near Dakshin Dwar is reputed to be the original, and we were delighted to grab a box of this speciality as a souvenir of our trip.

A Journey Beyond Destinations

As we packed for Chandipur, a realization dawned—this trip was not just about places visited, but about moments lived. The sanctity of Jagannath’s darshan, the embrace of the sea, the flavours of Odisha’s culinary traditions, and the simple joy of an unhurried road trip—these were the stories that would stay with us long after the journey ended.

The road had more tales to tell, and we were eager listeners, ready to continue our odyssey.