Between Drones & Dawn: Life in Erbil

Erbil currently experiences an unusual, heavy calm. You get used to sleeping through the distant sounds of drones, but find true comfort in the morning commute. Observing the city begin its day with 'business as usual' is the daily habit that keeps us steady. While the skies above remain watchful and weary, the city below refuses to blink. Every car on the road and every open shop door is a small, steady pulse of resilience. It is a daily triumph of routine over chaos; a reminder that as long as the wheels are turning, the spirit of the people remains unbroken. Beneath the tension, the simple act of starting the day is our most powerful proof of faith.

The Beautiful Dissolve: Finding Harmony in Life’s Bitter Contrasts

On a cool December evening in Erbil, I walked without a set direction, letting the festive lights inspire my thoughts. I paused unexpectedly at the Vinery Café, savoring an affogato—a mix of hot espresso and cold ice cream. In this simple combination, I found a reflection of life: opposites like bitter and sweet, hot and cold, liquid and solid coming together to create something unexpectedly complete.

The Hot Kebabs of Erbil: A Winter Ode from Kurdistan’s Beating Heart

On a chilly winter day in Erbil, nothing warms the soul like a smoky, juicy kebab. From the legendary Yasin’s beneath the Citadel to Farooq Jaafar’s famed skewers on Iskan Street, Erbil’s kebabs are culinary ritual and cultural heritage. Wrapped in fresh naan, topped with sumac onions, and sipped with chilled Mastaw, each bite is a taste of Kurdish warmth.

Under the Citadel’s Shadow: Savouring Erbil’s Soul

In the heart of Erbil, where modern life hums around an ancient hill, history still breathes through stone. The Erbil Citadel — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places — rises above the city like a memory that refuses to fade. Beneath it, the Old Bazaar buzzes with life: men sip tea and smoke shisha under the autumn sun, children feed pigeons, and the aroma of kebabs drifts through narrow lanes once walked by traders and conquerors alike. Watching people enjoy these simple pleasures, time seems to dissolve — and you realize that in Erbil, the past and present are forever entwined.

Qazuan Restaurant: A Kurdish Dastarkhan in the Heart of Erbil

Erbil is a city that combines a rich historical background with contemporary living, exemplified by Qazuan Restaurant, famous for its genuine Kurdish dishes. An impromptu lunch with coworkers turned into a delightful culinary journey featuring tasty meals and a welcoming environment. The traditional ambience added to the experience, enabling a stronger cultural connection. After a short wait, the food exceeded expectations, reflecting Kurdish hospitality. The gathering promoted friendship, creating lasting memories and emphasising the strong ties that food fosters within cultures.

Refreshing Iced Matcha Latte in Erbil’s Heat

On a hot summer evening in Erbil, I sought shelter in a cool café and ordered an Iced Matcha Latte, intrigued by its unique appeal. The drink, made from ground green tea and milk over ice, offered a refreshing and intricate flavour. This beverage, steeped in history, represented a moment of tranquillity in the heat, highlighting the value of enjoying life's simple pleasures and finding peace amid the chaos.