The Zanj Rebellion: Impact on Iraq’s Ancient Agriculture

A recent article from The Independent reveals that ancient ridges and canals in Southern Iraq, previously attributed to an agricultural system, were likely built using slave labor, particularly by the enslaved Zanj. This discovery connects their construction to the 9th-century Zanj Rebellion, underscoring the significant but overlooked contributions of enslaved Africans to the region's landscape. The findings challenge existing historical narratives and bring attention to the hidden legacy of these individuals.

A Journey Through Time: Exploring the Citadel of Erbil

On June 5, 2025, I visited Erbil's Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with anticipation to explore its rich history. However, upon arrival, I learned the Citadel was closed for renovations. Despite the disappointment, I found joy capturing views of the Citadel from outside, enjoying the nearby bustling Qaysari Bazaar, and sharing a moment with a small bird at a café. I left with a promise to return and explore its ancient treasures.

A Golden Saturday in Erbil: Kebab, Companionship, & the Kurdish Soul

Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region in Iraq, boasts a rich culinary scene, particularly at Kebab Farouq Jaafar in Iskan, renowned for its delectable kebabs. During a memorable lunch with colleagues, a variety of grilled meats and traditional dishes showcased the restaurant's authenticity. The meal culminated with fragrant Iraqi chai, reinforcing the joy of shared experiences amidst vibrant local culture, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts.

Qazwan & Kunefe: A Sweet Encounter in the Heart of Erbil

In December 2023, I visited Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq, where I experienced its vibrant culture and culinary delights. A special highlight was discovering Qazwan, a traditional Kurdish hot drink made from wild pistachios. Paired with Kunefe, a sweet dessert, it created a memorable dining experience. This evening showcased Kurdish hospitality and rich flavors, revealing the region’s heritage.

A Corkscrew into Baghdad: My First Descent into Iraq

In August 2007, I embarked on my first flight into Baghdad, experiencing a nerve-wracking corkscrew descent designed for safety amidst conflict. Arriving in a war-torn city, I was there to help transform the Trade Bank of Iraq's digital landscape. Supported by a local colleague, I navigated security and customs, witnessing Baghdad's scars of war alongside its resilience. This journey signified a significant beginning in my professional life.

The Ubaid Civilization: Masters of Innovation & Imagination

The Ubaid culture, existing in southern Mesopotamia around 5000 to 4000 BCE, laid the groundwork for Sumerian civilization. Notably, the Lizard Figurines, with their unique reptilian features, suggest complex societal beliefs, including possible connections to shamanism and fertility. These artifacts highlight Ubaid advancements in art, agriculture, and spirituality.

A Tea Lover’s Journey at Machko Chai Khana in Erbil

Erbil, the capital of Kurdistan, hosts the Erbil Citadel, one of the oldest inhabited sites globally. Inside its ancient walls, Machko Chai Khana tea house offers a cozy atmosphere and traditional Iraqi chai, rich in spices and history. The tea house embodies Iraqi hospitality, fostering connections among locals and travelers. A visit to Machko is essential for those seeking cultural and culinary experiences in Erbil.

Skewers & the Soul of Erbil: A Night at Yasin Restaurant

In Erbil, Kurdistan, Yasin Restaurant is renowned for its succulent kebabs, drawing locals and travelers. The warm ambience and diverse menu create an unforgettable dining experience. We, a group of friends, enjoyed a feast, savoring traditional Kurdish flavors and the company of each other. The evening concluded with traditional Kurdish tea, leaving hearts full and memories cherished. Yasin Restaurant is a must-visit for a delightful culinary adventure.

Adhamiya’s Fried Catfish: A Culinary Pilgrimage in the Heart of Baghdad

In the heart of Baghdad's Adhamiya district, the search for fried catfish led to an unforgettable culinary adventure. Amidst vibrant streets and the aroma of spices, the dish was a sensory delight. With its rich flavours and cultural significance, the meal served as a connection to Baghdad's history and traditions. This experience was more than just a meal; it was a heartfelt connection to the city and its people.

Chapli Kebabs & the Taste of Goodbye: A Farewell Etched in Spice

Erbil, the vibrant heart of Kurdistan, reveals its stories through food, particularly the Chapli Kebabs made by my neighbor Arbab. Our friendship blossomed over shared meals and laughter, with each kebab offering a journey through time and culture. Arbab’s cooking, full of love and tradition, connected us deeply. The flavors and aromas of his kitchen embody cherished memories, making food a lasting expression of friendship and heritage.