June 5, 2025, began as an ordinary day but quickly evolved into an unexpected tapestry of emotions and moments that only a traveller’s heart could truly appreciate. I set out with anticipation and curiosity to visit one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth—Erbil’s Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has stood as a silent witness to millennia of history, with evidence of occupation dating back possibly to the Neolithic period (around 6,000 BCE).

The very name—Erbil Citadel—evokes echoes of a bygone era. Rising from a prominent tell, Qalat Erbil, as it’s known locally, is more than just an ancient structure; it’s a living monument to the resilience and continuity of human civilisation. Standing at its base, gazing up at its timeworn walls that soar nearly 32 meters above the modern city, one can’t help but feel the immense weight of history. This isn’t merely a historical site—it’s widely considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth, a thought that never fails to send a thrill of awe through me.

The anticipation was palpable, the city below humming with life, yet my eyes were firmly fixed on the giant mound in front of me—an ancient hill that holds the secrets of civilisations long past.

The Climb to the Citadel

As the sun bathed Erbil in its golden warmth, the Citadel’s massive silhouette became more prominent, looming over the city like an old guardian. The Citadel—known locally as Qalat—sits atop a tell, an artificial mound formed by layers upon layers of human settlement dating back over 7,000 years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the world. This ancient hill has witnessed the rise and fall of numerous civilisations, with its earliest inhabitants believed to have dated back to the 5th millennium BCE. Historians have long recognised the Citadel as one of the oldest urban centres in human history. From the Sumerians to the Assyrians, the Babylonians, Persians, Greeks, and Ottomans—each civilisation that rose and fell in this region has left its mark on these ancient walls.

As I climbed the gentle slope, my heart raced with excitement. The ancient walls of the Citadel, made from mudbrick and stone, loomed larger with every step, weathered yet resilient. I could almost hear the footsteps of ancient merchants and warriors echoing through these same gates. Camera in hand, I could already envision the photos I would capture—the narrow alleyways, the restored houses, and the panoramic view from the highest points of the Citadel.

But as I reached the grand entrance, my enthusiasm took an unexpected hit. A kind guard, with a tone of gentle regret, informed me that the Citadel was closed for renovation. “Two months, maybe,” he said, gesturing toward the scaffolding and construction work visible behind the walls. “It’s to preserve the site for future generations.”

I felt my heart sink. The Citadel, a place I had dreamed of walking through, was out of reach for now. Yet, preservation is a noble cause. The Citadel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its designation in 2014 was a recognition of its universal value—something to be protected and cherished for centuries to come. The renovation efforts, while disappointing in the short term, were vital for ensuring this treasure would survive for future generations to experience.

Finding Beauty Beyond the Gates

Though the gates to the Citadel were closed, I refused to let my disappointment define my day. Instead, I found solace in the breathtaking view from the rampart just outside the gates. With my mobile camera in hand, I captured the contrast between the ancient Citadel and the modern city below. In the foreground, the lush greenery of the park, where families strolled and children played, beautifully framed the Citadel.

Turning my lens toward the bustling Qaysari Bazaar, I found myself captivated by the Ottoman-era marketplace that stretches out at the foot of the Citadel. This bazaar, dating back to the 16th century, has been a cultural and commercial hub for centuries. Merchants selling spices, textiles, jewellery, and sweets thrived here, and even now, the marketplace pulses with energy. From my vantage point, I could see the vibrant stalls and hear the soft hum of haggling, the exchange of goods, and the timeless rhythm of trade. It was like stepping into a living history book, and I couldn’t resist capturing the colours, movement, and life around me.

A Mojito & a Feathered Friend

In the midst of this vibrant history, I decided to treat myself to a moment of rest. I made my way to the famous Irbil Citadel Café, located on the rampart just outside the Citadel. Known for its panoramic views and open-air seating, the café is a beloved spot for both locals and visitors. I settled into a table overlooking the park and the bazaar, the gentle breeze carrying the fragrance of jasmine and freshly brewed tea.

I ordered a refreshing Green Apple Mojito—a twist on the classic drink, its tart sweetness a perfect companion to the warm afternoon. As I sipped my drink, lost in thoughts about the Citadel’s long history—from its role as a fortified city under the Assyrians to its cultural significance under Ottoman rule—I noticed a small, unexpected visitor.

A tiny bird, with iridescent feathers that seemed to shimmer in the sunlight, hopped onto the edge of my table. It tilted its head, as if asking, “Mind if I join you?” I couldn’t help but smile. In a foreign land, surrounded by the stories of ancient civilisations, this little bird became my unexpected companion, breaking the solitude of my solo travels.

For a moment, I wasn’t alone; I shared this quiet moment with my feathered friend, as it pecked at the nuts I offered.

It was one of those simple, quiet moments that make travelling so special. The Citadel might have been closed, but this spontaneous connection made the day feel meaningful. I quickly snapped a photo of the bird—its tiny form framed against the vastness of the Citadel’s walls. That image would stay with me until I could return.

A UNESCO Treasure & a Promise to Return

As I lingered at the café, the evening light began to soften, casting a rosy glow over the city. The Citadel, though closed for now, remained a beacon of resilience and history in my mind. Its UNESCO designation wasn’t just an honour; it was a recognition of its importance in preserving the stories of human civilisation. The Citadel has been a home, a fortress, a marketplace, and a cultural hub for over 7,000 years. Its mudbrick houses, some of which have been restored to showcase traditional Kurdish architecture, are a window into the past.

Inside its walls, the gem museum, the hammam, and the textile museum all speak to the Citadel’s rich history. But for now, I could only admire these treasures from afar, knowing that one day, I would return to explore them in person. The renovation, though inconvenient, is a necessary step in ensuring that the Citadel remains standing, a monument to the enduring spirit of Erbil.

As the sun dipped lower in the sky, I said goodbye to my feathered friend and took one last look at the Citadel. Its gates were closed, but in my heart, I knew they were not a barrier, but a promise—a promise that in a few months, I would return. I would walk through those gates, explore its ancient alleys, and stand at the heart of one of the world’s oldest cities.

For now, the Citadel of Erbil remains a dream deferred, but it is a dream worth waiting for. And when I return, I know it will greet me with open gates and stories yet to be told. Until that day, I carry with me the photos, the memories, and the promise of a return.