In the heartlands of India, amid the verdant forests and vibrant culture of its indigenous communities, lies a hidden gem of tradition and flavour—Handia. This indigenous rice beer has been a staple in rural households for centuries, deeply intertwined with social gatherings, religious ceremonies, and daily life. The name ‘Handia’ likely stems from the word Handi, referring to the deep, wide-mouthed cooking vessel commonly used in Indian kitchens.

Handia, also known as Hadia, has ancient roots in tribal regions across Odisha, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Bihar, and Madhya Pradesh. Its preparation and consumption are integral to the rituals, festivals, and cultural practices of these communities. It is not merely a drink but a symbol of social unity and spiritual significance, revered during sacred ceremonies and celebrations.

Fermentation: A Timeless Technique

Fermentation, a process that has been used for preserving food and drinks since ancient times, is central to the creation of Handia. Microorganisms like bacteria, yeast, and fungi convert organic compounds, such as sugars and starch, into alcohol or acids. This technique was employed by early civilizations in the Indus Valley, Middle East, Egypt, Greece, and Rome to produce fermented milk products, alcoholic beverages, and leavened bread.

Fermentation has long been a method to preserve food and beverages, dating back to times when refrigeration was unheard of. This ancient technique, practised by early civilizations, involves microorganisms like yeast, bacteria, or fungi converting sugars and starches into alcohol or acids. It has sustained human communities since Neolithic times, with fermented drinks like Handia playing a vital role in tribal life. The Santal and Munda tribes even attribute the creation of Handia to their deities, with myths describing how the supreme god, Marang Buru, imparted this knowledge to the first humans.

Rice beer is probably the oldest manufactured drink in the world. Many ancient civilizations have Gods assigned specifically to the task of brewing beer. Over the years, beer has grown into types and styles; Indian rice beer is one such type of beer. It is known as saki in Japan, lao-chao in China, tape ketan in Indonesia, khao-mak in Thailand.

A History of Fermentation in India

The Rigveda, a sacred Hindu text dating back to around 1500 BCE, mentions the preparation of Soma juice, an alcoholic beverage, through fermentation. Later, during the post-Vedic period (600 BCE to 100 CE), various other fermented beverages like medaka, prasanna, and asava were popular.

The origin of the traditional drink Handia among Santals is very much connected with their creation story. It is the most sacred and indispensable drink of the Santals. Santals believe in one “supreme being” whom they call Thạkur Jiu (Life Giver) or Marangburu (Great Mountain) who is considered to be the “supreme” among all the “religious beings”.  According to a myth, the Supreme deity, ‘Maran Buru’, taught the first human pair of Pilchu Haram and Pilchu Budhi to prepare Handia. Maran Buru brought the Soma to be with the man; the first parents then made a bowl of green leaves and offered a drink to ‘Maran Buru’. It is, therefore, a very sacred drink to them.

The Art of Brewing

Crafting Handia is an art passed down through generations. The art of crafting Handia involves mixing boiled rice with ranu tablets—special fermenting agents made from 20-25 herbs, such as turmeric and ginger. The mixture is left to ferment in earthen pots, and within a week, Handia is ready to be served chilled. With a lower alcohol content than other traditional liquors, it offers a milky white hue and a tangy, slightly sour taste, and it can be enjoyed fresh or stored for later use.

It’s important to maintain cleanliness and hygiene throughout the preparation process to ensure the quality and safety of the Handia.

Handia’s Cultural Significance

Handia holds significant cultural and social importance in many Indian communities. It is often served during weddings, festivals, and other celebratory occasions. In some regions, it is considered a sacred drink and is offered to deities during religious rituals. Handia is also a symbol of hospitality and is often shared with guests as a sign of welcome.

On the Indian subcontinent, fermented foods and beverages are an integral part of cultural heritage, even today. These have been developed throughout the history of human civilisation for sustained nutrition and food preservation. The consumption of foods and drinks that have undergone fermentation contain health benefits that stretch beyond food preservation. The transformation of sugars and starches enhances the natural, beneficial bacteria in food.

Tribal women are key players in the preparation and sale of Handia, with its production providing vital income for rural households. The beverage is often sold in local markets and roadside stalls, making it a symbol of both cultural pride and economic sustenance.

Health Benefits

Fermented foods are rich in probiotic bacteria so by consuming fermented foods you are adding beneficial bacteria and enzymes to your overall intestinal flora, increasing the health of your gut microbiome and digestive system and enhancing the immune system.

The health-beneficial effects of fermented food were first advocated as far back as 76 CE by the Roman historian Pliny, who mentioned the use of fermented milk for treating gastrointestinal infections.

Beyond its cultural significance, Handia offers potential health benefits. The fermentation process can result in the production of beneficial probiotics, which can positively impact gut health and digestion. Fermented foods, rich in probiotics, support digestive health and boost the immune system.

A Taste of Tradition

Handia’s appeal extends beyond its taste, as it embodies the heritage of India’s tribal communities, serving as a reminder of the importance of preserving traditional knowledge. With every sip, Handia connects people to the ancient rituals and stories that have shaped their history, celebrating the rich tapestry of India’s diverse culinary traditions.

The Dark Side of Tradition

While Handia has long been a cherished part of tribal culture in India, there is a growing concern about its misuse. Some individuals within tribal communities are resorting to mixing chemicals with Handia to enhance its potency or create a more intense effect. This practice poses serious health risks and threatens the cultural integrity of this traditional beverage.

Excessive consumption, particularly from a very young age and throughout the day, can indeed lead to severe health consequences, including cognitive impairment, addiction, and a shortened lifespan. The misuse of Handia not only harms individuals but also undermines the cultural significance of this traditional beverage. By mixing chemicals, individuals are diluting the cultural heritage associated with Handia and potentially damaging its reputation.

Programs focused on education, awareness, and offering healthier alternatives could help mitigate these harmful practices. By addressing these issues, we can help protect the health of individuals within tribal communities and preserve the cultural heritage of Handia.

Conclusion

Handia, a testament to a tradition that has endured for centuries, brewed with care and reverence, continues to bind communities together, celebrate life’s milestones, and offer a glimpse into the rich cultural tapestry of the country. While the challenges of modernization may threaten its existence, Handia’s enduring spirit and deep-rooted significance ensure that its legacy will continue to be cherished for generations to come.