Nestled on Baghdad’s iconic Al Rasheed Street, Haji Zbala Juice Shop is more than just a juice bar; it’s a living chronicle of the city’s rich history and enduring spirit. For over a century, this humble establishment has quenched the thirst of everyone from ordinary Iraqis to prominent world leaders, offering its signature fresh-pressed grape juice since 1900.

Al Rasheed Street: A Living Museum

Al Rasheed Street, inaugurated under Ottoman rule in 1916, holds a special place in Baghdad’s history. As the first street in the city to be lit by electricity, it became a hub of cultural activity, lined with theatres, cafes, bookstores, and even Baghdad’s first cinema, al-Zawra. The street’s Ottoman-era architecture and storied past make it a vibrant symbol of Baghdad’s heritage.

Haji Zbala Juice Shop, with its distinct charm, has been a steadfast part of this historic street, witnessing Baghdad’s transformations through triumphs and turmoil alike. Founded in 1900, towards the close of the Ottoman era, the shop originally operated in the Al-Karkh area. In 1912, it moved to its present location near notable landmarks including the Old Government Palace, the Ministry of Defense, the Qushla Clock, and Al-Maidan Square, at the entrance to the historic Al-Rashid Street.

A Juice Shop for Generations

For around 120 years, the recipe of the dark and sweet raisin juice that has made Haji Zbala Juice Shop famous across Baghdad has remained a closely guarded family secret. “It has passed through my family, from generation to generation,” says Ghahfour, a descendant of the shop’s founder. “People come here from across Baghdad and all over Iraq to try our juice.”

The juice shop’s reputation extends far beyond the city. Its enduring appeal is tied to a local saying: “If there’s juice to be had, then Al Rasheed Street is alive, and Baghdad is alive.” This phrase captures the symbolic connection between the shop’s presence and the vitality of Baghdad itself.

The Ancient Roots of Grapes

he earliest archaeological evidence of wine was discovered at Jiahu in China’s Yellow River Valley (Henan province), dating back to around 7000 BCE during the Early Neolithic Period. During this era, wild grapes were first gathered by some of humanity’s earliest civilizations in Southern Caucasia, an area encompassing modern-day northwest Turkey and northern Iraq, around 6500–6000 BCE.

Further significant evidence comes from Georgia, where archaeological excavations have uncovered the world’s earliest winemaking process, dating back to 6000–5000 BCE. This discovery, published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS), highlights the use of Eurasian grapes, the ancestors of most modern wine varieties. Before this, the oldest known evidence of wine production came from the Hajji Firuz Tepe site in the Zagros Mountains of Iran, dating back to approximately 5400–5000 BCE.

The juice served at Haji Zbala Juice Shop draws from this ancient lineage, made from grapes cultivated in the Zagros Mountains. These mountains, stretching from northern Iraq to Iran, have been a cradle of grape domestication and winemaking for millennia. As one of the oldest cultivated fruits, grapes hold a rich history that intertwines with the story of human civilization, and every sip of Haji Zbala’s juice carries this remarkable legacy.

Each glass of juice at Haji Zbala carries the legacy of this ancient fruit, steeped in cultural significance and timeless tradition.

Historic Guests

Among the many notable figures who have visited Haji Zbala Juice Shop, Saddam Hussein’s visit in 1990 during the Arab League summit stands out. According to WBUR, other illustrious guests include Egyptian President Hosni Mubarak and Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat. These visits are a testament to the shop’s enduring legacy and its place in the social fabric of Baghdad.

An Architectural Gem

The juice shop is housed in a building that exemplifies Baghdad’s traditional “shanasheel” architecture. These distinctive wooden lattice windows, dating back to the Abbasid period, are a hallmark of Baghdad’s cultural and architectural identity. While the shanasheel of Haji Zbala Juice Shop have weathered the ravages of time, they still evoke a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era.

A Taste of Resilience

Despite the challenges of modernization, Haji Zbala Juice Shop remains a cherished landmark on Al Rasheed Street. It has survived decades of political upheaval, war, and urban transformation, standing as a testament to Baghdad’s resilience. Its grape juice is not just a refreshing drink—it’s a sip of history, a reminder of the enduring spirit of a city that has seen it all.

This morning, as I enjoyed a glass of grape juice at Haji Zbala Juice Shop, each sip seemed to carry a taste of the city’s rich history.

Preserving Baghdad’s Soul

As you sit at Haji Zbala Juice Shop, sipping a glass of raisin juice under its Ottoman-style archways, you’re not just enjoying a drink. You’re immersing yourself in a legacy that spans centuries, surrounded by the whispers of history that linger in the air.

For visitors to Baghdad, a stop at this iconic establishment is a must. It’s a chance to taste the city’s history, marvel at its architectural beauty, and connect with its enduring cultural heritage. Haji Zbala Juice Shop is more than a place; it’s a living symbol of Baghdad’s heart and soul.

So, the next time you find yourself on Al Rasheed Street, take a moment to step inside Haji Zbala. Savour its legendary juice, steeped in over a century of tradition, and drink in the stories of a city that refuses to fade.