Hey, fellow food adventurers! Let’s embark on a journey, shall we? A journey that takes us through the smoky alleys of ancient cities and the bustling markets of modern metropolises, all in pursuit of that tantalizing skewer of grilled delight: the kebab. You might think you know the kebab, but trust me, there’s a world of stories hidden within each charred morsel. Today, we’re setting our sights on two lands, Iraq and India, where the humble kebab has been transformed into a culinary masterpiece, each with its own unique tale to tell.

The Street-Side Stage

I remember standing before a row of grills, each one a miniature stage where skewers of lamb and chicken sizzled in rhythm. The kebab-maker, with the flair of a conductor, turned the skewers with a flick of his wrist, sprinkling sumac and salt as though he were seasoning not just meat but the very air. Behind him, stacks of flatbread waited like blank pages, ready to soak up the story.

The scene was less about food and more about performance—the hiss of fat hitting coals, the glow of embers, the chorus of voices calling out orders.

A Culinary Genesis: The Story Begins

Kebabs are as old as fire itself. Clay tablets from ancient Mesopotamia describe skewered meat roasted over flames, proof that Erbil has been perfumed by smoke for millennia. Later, the Ottomans refined the art, spreading kebabs across their empire. Each region added its own accent: shish in Turkey, seekh in India, kofta in Persia.

Food historian Colleen Taylor Sen, in her captivating book “Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India,” paints a vivid picture of this ancient tradition. She reveals that even in the heart of the Indus Valley Civilization and ancient Mesopotamia, the practice of grilling meat on sticks was commonplace. And in India, the 12th-century text “Manasollasa” brings to light recipes that bear a striking resemblance to our beloved kebabs, long before the Mughal era. It’s a reminder that food, like stories, travels and evolves, carrying the echoes of civilizations past.

Iraq: Where Fire & Flavour Dance

Now, let’s journey to Iraq, a land where kebabs are more than just food; they’re a cultural cornerstone. Picture bustling kebab houses, where the air is thick with the aroma of charcoal and spices. Here, kebabs are a testament to Iraq’s rich history, mentioned even in the witty tales of Al-Jahiz’s “Kitab al-Bukhala,” a book from the 9th century.

The “Kitab al-Tabikh” from 1226 CE, penned by Mohammed ibn Al-Hasan Al Baghdadi, reveals recipes for meatball kebabs, a testament to the dish’s enduring legacy. In Iraq, the shish kebab reigns supreme: chunks of marinated lamb or beef, kissed by the flames of natural wood charcoal, seasoned with sumac, cumin, and paprika. Imagine the sizzle, the fragrant smoke, and the final flourish of fresh parsley before it’s served alongside grilled vegetables, bread, and fragrant rice.

And then there’s the tikka kebab, its smaller, tender pieces of meat, and the unique kubba halab kebab, a symphony of minced meat, bulgur wheat, and spices, stuffed with cheese or nuts, and fried to golden perfection. Every street corner, every restaurant, every home tells a different chapter of this culinary saga, served with warm khubz and dips like hummus and tahini, each bite a taste of Iraqi heritage.

India: A Tapestry of Spices and Tales

Our next chapter takes us to India, a land of vibrant colors and intoxicating aromas. Here, kebabs are a reflection of the country’s diverse culinary tapestry. Though the “Mahabharata” and “Manasollasa” speak of ancient meat dishes, it was during the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal eras that kebabs truly flourished. Ibn Battuta, the intrepid traveler, recounts tales of kebabs served in royal courts and enjoyed by commoners alike.

Though spit- or skewer-cooked meat dishes are noted in an ancient Indian text, the Mahabharata, and an early 12th-century Sanskrit text Manasollasa (the Delights Of The Mind) composed by the Kalyani Chalukya king Bhulokamalla Someshvara III (reigned 1127–1138 CE). The title Manasollasa (मानसोल्लास) is a compound Sanskrit word, consisting of manas (मनस्) or “mind” and ullasa (उल्लास) or “delight”. The Manasollasa talks about bhaditrakam — a dish made by cutting lamb or goat into small pieces, stringing the pieces on iron skewers and cooking them on hot coals. There is a graphic description of cooking kebabs and the text is South Indian Hindu in origin, which shows no traces of Middle Eastern influences.

Indian kebabs are a symphony of flavors, marinated in yoghurt and spices like ginger, garlic, turmeric, and garam masala. Imagine the tender meat, infused with these rich, aromatic blends, cooked in a tandoor or over a fiery grill. Picture it served with naan or roti, accompanied by chutneys and raita, each bite a burst of Indian culinary artistry.

Whether it’s the rich, Mughlai kebabs, laden with dry fruits and aromatic spices, or the rustic, char-grilled delights of pre-Mughal traditions, there’s a kebab for every palate. The streets of Patna, captured in old sketches, reveal the timeless tradition of cooking meat on skewers, a testament to India’s enduring love affair with this dish.

A Culinary Convergence: Comparing the Tales

As we compare these two culinary tales, we find that both Iraqi and Indian kebabs share a love for meat, but their seasonings and cooking methods tell different stories. Iraqi kebabs, with their Middle Eastern spices and charcoal-grilled charm, speak of ancient traditions and desert nights. Indian kebabs, with their yoghurt marinades and tandoor-baked tenderness, reflect a rich tapestry of regional flavors and Mughal influences.

Both cuisines celebrate the kebab with bread and rice, but their accompaniments vary, each telling a unique story of its region. Iraqi kebabs are served with khubz and hummus, while Indian kebabs are paired with naan and chutneys.

The Enduring Flame: A Culinary Legacy

As we savor these delectable dishes, let’s remember the centuries of evolution and the cross-cultural influences that have shaped them. Each bite is a taste of history, a whisper of ancient fires and bustling markets. So, the next time you find yourself before a skewer of sizzling meat, take a moment to appreciate the stories it holds, the tales of two lands and their enduring love for the kebab.

And remember, whether it’s the smoky charm of Iraqi kebabs or the vibrant flavors of Indian kebabs, you’re embarking on a culinary journey that spans centuries and continents.

Bon appétit, and happy travels!