Kolkata. The very name conjures images of bustling streets, the aroma of street food, and a vibrant cultural tapestry woven through centuries. On our recent sojourn to this ‘City of Joy,’ my father, ever the explorer, unveiled a plan that promised a unique perspective of this grand metropolis: a river cruise along the Hooghly, the lifeblood of West Bengal, affectionately known as the Ganga by locals.

This 260-kilometer distributary, snaking its way through verdant landscapes and past ancient settlements, holds within its currents the echoes of history. Empires rose and fell along its banks, diverse faiths found fertile ground, and the sails of colonial traders marked the genesis of Kolkata’s transformation into a vital commercial hub. It was on these very waters that the East India Company’s ships navigated, charting a course that would forever alter the destiny of Bengal.

Setting Sail on an Evening Serenade

Our vessel for this aquatic adventure was courtesy of Vivada Cruises, promising a three-hour round trip from the modern expanse of Millennium Park to the spiritual haven of Belur Math. As the afternoon sun began its descent, casting a warm golden hue, we found ourselves stepping aboard, anticipation bubbling within us.

A gracious welcome awaited us, complete with refreshing drinks and a delectable array of pakoras and the quintessential Kolkata snack, jhalmuri. Soon, the gentle hum of the engine replaced the city’s clamor, and we began our glide towards the iconic Howrah Bridge, the city’s grandeur slowly unfurling before our eyes.

The imposing silhouette of Howrah Station, a majestic brick-red edifice, stood sentinel on the riverbank. This historic railway terminus, a vital artery of India’s transportation network since 1853, exuded an old-world charm against the backdrop of the flowing river.

Beneath the Mighty Arch: A Moment of Awe

The experience of passing directly beneath the Howrah Bridge, affectionately called Rabindra Setu, was nothing short of surreal. This colossal cantilever bridge, a marvel of engineering and one of the longest of its kind globally, connects the twin cities of Howrah and Kolkata. Opened in 1943, it bears the weight of over a hundred thousand vehicles and countless pedestrians each day. Gazing up at its intricate steelwork, its sheer span stretching across the water, left us in profound admiration for human ingenuity.

Sailing below the mighty cantilever bridge was a wonderful experience.

Howrah Bridge is a cantilever bridge with a suspended span over the Hooghly River in West Bengal, India. The length of the bridge is 705 meters and the width is 71 ft., with two footpaths of 15 ft on either side. The third-longest cantilever bridge at the time of its construction, the Howrah Bridge is the sixth-longest bridge of its type in the world. The construction of the bridge started in 1936 and ended in 1942. It was opened for public transport on February 3, 1943. The first vehicle to use the bridge was a solitary tram.

Whispers from the Riverbanks: Tales of Time and Tradition

As our cruise meandered along the Hooghly, the riverbanks transformed into a living canvas of Kolkata’s history and culture. We passed Nimtala Ghat, its dense foliage creating an almost mystical ambiance. A solitary Kali idol nestled under a neem tree, sheltered by a simple thatched roof, added to the site’s enigmatic charm. Our guide pointed out the Samadhi Prangan, the serene memorial dedicated to Rabindranath Tagore, the first non-European to receive the Nobel Prize in Literature, a poignant reminder of Bengal’s intellectual prowess.

Amidst the dense forest, near the Hooghly River, stood alone Kali Idol, under a Neem Tree, with only a thatched roof to save the goddess from the vagaries of nature. The Nimtala Crematorium derived its name from this Neem Tree that bowed down towards Goddess Kali. The burning ghat was constructed in 1827.

It’s a great feeling to see the Samadhi Prangan (Memorial) dedicated to Kobi Guru Rabindranath Tagore at Nimtala Crematorium from the river. He became in 1913 the first non-European to win a Nobel Prize in Literature. He renounced his knighthood in response to the Jallianwala Bagh massacre in 1919. He authored the National Anthems of India and Bangladesh.

Further along, the grandeur of Shobhabazar Rajbari at Sovabazar came into view. Our guide recounted how Nabakrishna Dev initiated the iconic Durga Puja celebrations here in 1757. The palatial homes lining Pathuriaghata Street spoke volumes of a bygone era’s opulence, their colonnaded facades whispering tales of wealthy merchants and zamindars. We marveled at the Tagore Castle, built in 1895, its slightly dilapidated state unable to completely mask the architectural splendor it once possessed, a poignant reminder of Kolkata’s rich heritage.

Pathuriaghata Street is so named as it once led to a stone-flagged ghat on the Hooghly River. It is one of the oldest residential areas in what was Sutanuti. Even in the 21st century, the area is replete with colonnaded mansions. These merchant princes built palatial colonnaded houses here, especially in the 19th century, in what was once known as Sutanuti, one of the three original villages comprising old Calcutta.

Amongst the oldest and most renowned residents of the neighbourhood were the Tagores. Joyram Tagore, who amassed a large fortune as a merchant and as Dewan to the French government at Chandannagar, shifted from Gobindapur to Pathuriaghata when the British constructed new Fort William in the mid-eighteenth century.

Unlike the Jorasanko Thakurbari, this ‘The Tagore Castle’ is not related to Rabindranath Tagore. It was Jatindramohan Tagore who built it in 1895. This building is in shambles, though, and this fading grandeur reminds one of the imposing structures that Kolkata has always boasted of.

The narrative then shifted to the legendary Natta Company, a folk theatre troupe from Bengal, as we passed their former performance venues, imagining the vibrant stories that once unfolded there.

The above building used to host the legendary Natta company. It’s a folk theatre troupe from Bengal established in 1869. In the early years, the group used to perform in different Zamindar’s (landlord’s) palaces. As time passed on they started to perform in different villages, small towns and also in cities like Kolkata (formerly known as Calcutta).

A Confluence of Faith and Art: Belur Math

The crescendo of our river journey was our arrival at Belur Math, the global headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math and Ramakrishna Mission, founded by Swami Vivekananda, the revered disciple of Ramakrishna Paramahamsa.

We disembarked at the Belur Math jetty for a brief but enriching visit. The temple’s architecture was truly captivating, a harmonious blend of Christian, Islamic, Hindu, and Buddhist motifs, symbolizing the universal message of religious unity championed by the Ramakrishna Movement. The serene atmosphere and the spiritual aura of the place left a lasting impression.

As darkness fell, we returned to the cruise with hearts full of gratitude and minds rich with memories. The riverbanks lit up, revealing a sparkling cityscape. Though we missed seeing the Howrah Bridge illuminated, the beauty of the night-time skyline made up for it.

Returning with Memories: A City Aglow

As dusk painted the sky in hues of orange and purple, we began our return journey to Millennium Park. The city lights began to twinkle, transforming the riverbanks into a sparkling spectacle. While we had sailed under the majestic Howrah Bridge before it was fully illuminated, the enchanting night-time skyline more than compensated.

The opulence of the bridge, however, comes alive in the night time as it is all lit up. But, we missed it as we sailed under it before the bridge was lit up.

Back at Millennium Park, as the cruise gently docked, we were treated to another round of delicious snacks – crispy pakoras, savory fritters, and comforting coffee. Our hearts were full, our minds enriched with the stories and sights we had witnessed.

Reflections on a Riverine Reverie

Cruising along the Hooghly River in Kolkata is not merely a tourist activity; it is an immersive journey through the city’s soul. It offers a unique vantage point, a tranquil escape that allows one to connect with the historical and cultural essence of this remarkable metropolis. For anyone venturing to Kolkata, this river cruise is an absolute must-do, a serene sojourn into the heart of India’s ‘City of Joy.’