The air was thick with anticipation as we piled into the car in Ranchi, the capital of Jharkhand, ready to embark on a journey to Netarhat—a hill station I’d heard described as the “Queen of Chotanagpur.” Nestled at 3,696 feet amidst low, rolling hills, dense forests, and spring-fed streams, Netarhat promised a retreat from the chaos of modern life. It was a family adventure—Jagrata, Judhajit, my young uncle and aunt-in-law (Jyoti mesho and Rupa mashi), and I—chasing the kind of natural beauty and quietude that feels increasingly rare. Little did I know, this trip would weave together breathtaking landscapes, whispers of history, and moments that would linger in my heart long after we returned home.

The Road to Netarhat: A Tapestry of Rural Charm

The drive from Ranchi, about 150 kilometres, was a story in itself. As we left the city behind, the urban sprawl gave way to sprawling paddy fields, their vibrant green stretching endlessly under the wide Jharkhand sky. Small villages dotted the landscape, their mud-walled homes and thatched roofs offering glimpses of a simpler life. Children waved as we passed, their laughter mingling with the hum of our car, and I felt a quiet connection to this land, so different from the concrete jungles I’m used to.

We stopped briefly in Lohardaga, a bustling little town, to grab some snacks and stretch our legs. The local market was alive with colour—piles of fresh vegetables, vendors calling out, and the faint aroma of roasted corn in the air.

From there, the road began to climb, and the scenery transformed dramatically. Dense forests of Sal, Palash, and Mahuwa trees closed in around us, their leaves forming a canopy that filtered the sunlight into golden patches. As we passed through Ghaghra, the ascent grew steeper, and the hills began to reveal themselves—rugged, timeless, and impossibly inviting.

The final stretch to Netarhat was like stepping into another world. The road levelled onto a plateau, or “Pat,” as the locals call it, surrounded by towering cypress and pine trees. The air grew cooler, crisper, carrying the scent of earth and resin.

As we crossed the charming entrance gate to Netarhat, I felt a flutter of excitement—this was a place that promised to be special.

Settling In: Naturehat Resorts & a Taste of Adventure

We arrived at Naturehat Resorts, where I’d booked two cosy tents for our stay. The setup was perfect: rustic enough to feel like we were truly in the wild, yet comfortable with modern amenities. The kids were thrilled, running around the grassy area, already planning their adventures. After a long drive, we were famished, so we quickly settled in with steaming plates of noodles, the kind of simple meal that tastes divine when you’re surrounded by nature.

Our first mission was to catch the sunset at Magnolia Sunset Point, though the overcast sky didn’t bode well for a clear view. Before heading out, we asked the resort staff to prepare a special dinner for us—Ahuna Chicken, a Champaran-style dish slow-cooked in earthen pots over charcoal. The thought of it was enough to make my mouth water. With dinner sorted, we set off for Magnolia Sunset Point, eager to soak in the views and the stories that clung to this place.

Magnolia Sunset Point: Tales of Beauty & Heartbreak

Magnolia Sunset Point is steeped in legend, and as we drove toward it, I couldn’t help but recount the tale to my family. During the British colonial era, it’s said that a young woman named Magnolia, the daughter of a British officer, fell deeply in love with a local man. Their romance, forbidden by the rigid social norms of the time, ended in tragedy when Magnolia, heartbroken and rejected, leapt to her death from the cliff that now bears her name. The story hung heavy in the air as we arrived, the mist and drizzle adding a haunting beauty to the scene.

The local administration has done a remarkable job preserving Magnolia Sunset Point, making it a prime spot to take in the rolling hills and valleys below. Though the clouds obscured the sunset, the atmosphere was magical. The mist curled around the hills like a soft blanket, and the drizzle lent a silvery sheen to the landscape.

We stood there, sipping hot tea and munching on crispy pakoras from a nearby stall, letting the tranquillity wash over us.

A Night Under the Stars

Back at the resort, night had fallen, and Netarhat revealed another layer of its charm. The silence was profound, broken only by the occasional rustle of leaves or a distant bird call. The air was cool, scented with pine and wildflowers, and we gathered outside our tents, glasses of whiskey in hand, to toast the beauty of the evening.

Dinner was a feast—rice, soft chapatis, and the star of the show: Ahuna Chicken. The rich, smoky flavours, slow-cooked to perfection in those earthen pots, were unforgettable. We ate until we could eat no more, laughing and sharing stories under a sky studded with stars.

Exhausted but content, we retired early, knowing we had an early start to catch the sunrise. The kids protested, but the promise of another adventure had them in bed before long.

Sunrise Over the Koel River Valley

At 4:30 AM, the alarm jolted us awake, and we bundled up against the chilly morning air to head to the sunrise point near the Koel River Valley.

The drive was short but exhilarating, the road winding through dark forests as the first hints of dawn painted the sky. The Koel River, which originates in the nearby Palamau Tiger Reserve, splits into the South Koel and North Koel, fed by three streams: South Karo, North Karo, and Koina. As we reached the viewpoint, the sun began to rise, its golden rays piercing through scattered clouds to illuminate the lush valley below.

The sight was breathtaking. The river glinted like a ribbon of silver, winding through verdant hills that seemed to stretch into eternity. We stood in silence as the world woke up around us. It was one of those moments where words felt inadequate, and all you could do was feel the beauty of the earth.

Lower Ghaghri Falls: A Trek Through Nature’s Heart

After a hearty breakfast back at the resort, we set out for Lower Ghaghri Falls, about 10 kilometres from Netarhat. The journey there was an adventure in itself. We parked our car and began trekking through dense forests, where tall trees formed natural bridges over small, brisk rivulets.

The path was lined with wild mushrooms and moss-covered rocks, and we stumbled upon an old forest watchtower, its stairs slick with moss from disuse. Climbing to the top, we were rewarded with a sweeping view of the forest canopy, a sea of green stretching out beneath us.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Indrajit Roy Choudhury (@indrosphere)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Indrajit Roy Choudhury (@indrosphere)

The trail to the falls was challenging, especially in the rainy season. The path was slippery, overgrown with vines, and at times nearly impassable.

We couldn’t reach the base of the falls, but even from a distance, the sight was mesmerising. The water roared down the rocks, its sound echoing through the woods like a symphony.

I was reminded of Robert Frost’s words about “lovely, dark, and deep” woods, and indeed, this place felt like a poem come to life. The kids were in awe, snapping photos and pointing out every new discovery, from a brightly colored bird to a cluster of wildflowers.

Preserving Netarhat’s Soul

What struck me most about Netarhat was its untouched quality. Unlike many hill stations that have succumbed to commercialisation, Netarhat remains a sanctuary of natural beauty and simplicity. The local community welcomed us with warmth, their hospitality as genuine as the landscape itself. But I couldn’t help but feel a pang of concern for this fragile paradise. Places like Netarhat rely on mindful tourism—practices like proper waste disposal and respect for the environment—to preserve their magic for future generations.

A Farewell to the Queen of Chotanagpur

As we packed up to leave, I felt a quiet ache in my chest. Netarhat had woven itself into our story, from the misty cliffs of Magnolia Sunset Point to the golden sunrise over the Koel River Valley and the wild beauty of Lower Ghaghri Falls. It wasn’t just the landscapes that moved me—it was the way this place brought us together as a family, gave us space to breathe, and reminded us of the world’s enduring wonders.

Netarhat is more than a destination; it’s a feeling, a memory, a call to return. As we drove back to Ranchi, the hills fading in the rearview mirror, I knew we’d carry this place with us. If you ever find yourself in Jharkhand, make the journey to Netarhat. Let its forests, rivers, and stories wrap you in their embrace. You won’t leave unchanged.