Following the Footprints of Guru Nanak Dev Ji in Baghdad: A Journey Beyond Time

On By Indrajit Roy ChoudhuryIn Journeys & Mindscapes

Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s visit to Baghdad in the early 16th century stands as a profound moment of interfaith dialogue. Centuries later, I retraced his path through the city’s ancient cemeteries and sacred tombs — seeking the lost Gurudwara where the great sage once stayed and rediscovering a forgotten story of unity that transcends faith and borders.

Guru Nanak Dev Ji — the founder of Sikhism and the first of the ten Sikh Gurus — was a traveller, philosopher, and reformer whose message of love and unity transcended every human boundary. His journeys, known as Udasis, spanned thousands of miles across Asia and the Middle East. Among these, one journey remains especially profound — his visit to Baghdad, around 1511 CE, when the city was a shining centre of Islamic learning and Sufi mysticism.

As someone deeply drawn to history, spirituality, and cultural heritage, I set out to retrace this path — a pilgrimage through the streets and cemeteries of Baghdad, seeking the memory of Baba Nanak in a city that once celebrated his universal message.

Guru Nanak Dev

Guru Nanak in Baghdad: A Meeting of Faiths

After visiting Mecca and Medina, Guru Nanak travelled to Baghdad — a city that, even in the 16th century, represented the meeting point of theology, philosophy, and mystic traditions. It was the heart of the Abbasid Caliphate’s intellectual glory, a place where scholars and Sufis once debated the meaning of divine truth.

According to Sikh tradition, Guru Nanak engaged in spiritual dialogues with Pir Dastgir (associated with Sheikh Abdul Qadir Gilani, founder of the Qadiriyya Sufi order) and Pir Bahlol Dana, a revered Sufi saint of Baghdad. While historical records sometimes merge timelines, these encounters symbolise something timeless — the meeting of two great spiritual currents, one from Punjab and one from Mesopotamia, bound by a shared belief in oneness and compassion.

One story tells of Guru Nanak being denied entry to the city because of his unorthodox appearance. He spent the night in a cemetery, where, in an act of divine compassion, he made a dead tree bloom. Awed by this miracle, the people of Baghdad gathered to listen to his words. They came to call him Baba Nanak, and at the site where he stayed, a small shrine was eventually built to honour his memory.

The Rediscovery & Loss of the Shrine

This sacred site — later known as the Baba Nanak Shrine or Gurudwara Nanak Peer — stood beside the Tomb of Pir Bahlol in the old quarters of Baghdad. Historical accounts describe a modest structure within the Sheikh Maarouf Cemetery, comprising a small courtyard, a prayer room, and a stone slab inscribed in Arabic, commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit and his discourses.

After Guru Nanak’s departure, Mohammad Pasha Amoot, a devoted follower of Pir Bahlol, is said to have constructed the memorial platform. In later centuries, this evolved into a small Gurudwara — a symbol of the bond between Sikh and Muslim mystics.

During World War I, Sikh soldiers serving in the British Indian Army rediscovered the shrine. Deeply moved by its significance, they renovated it, restoring the inscriptions and setting up a commemorative plaque. The Gurudwara again underwent restoration during World War II, when Sikh regiments stationed in Iraq gathered here to offer prayers. For decades, it stood as a humble yet powerful emblem of peace — an oasis of shared faith amid the turmoil of the 20th century.

Photograph taken within the Guru Nanak’s shrine in Baghdad (Baba Nanak Shrine), circa early to mid-20th century. By Unknown author – link, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=132671674

Sadly, the shrine met its demise in 2003, during the U.S. invasion of Iraq. Looters stripped it of its relics, including the Arabic-inscribed plaque and other commemorative artefacts. The building was damaged, and over time, it disappeared into the ruins of the surrounding cemetery.

Our Journey to the Lost Shrine

For years, my colleague Mohammed Al-Samarrae and I had dreamt of visiting this holy site. Our journey took shape through the guidance of Dr. Mehiyar Kathem, a Research Associate at University College London (UCL) and a key figure in the Nahrain Network, an NGO dedicated to heritage preservation in Iraq.

On November 11, 2022, my colleague Mohammed Al-Samarrae and I, accompanied by Dr. Mehiyar Kathem, a heritage scholar from University College London and a leading figure in the Nahrain Network, set out on this quest. Beginning our morning in Mansour, we wound our way through checkpoints and narrow lanes, guided by Google Maps, intuition, and reverence.

Our exploration included a checkpoint near the Baghdad Central railway station, where we had to deposit our ID cards, a reminder of the city’s complex modern realities.

Encounters with Sacred History

Our first stop was the Tomb of Junayed Al-Baghdadi, a 9th-century Sufi saint whose teachings continue to influence spiritual seekers worldwide.

At the Sheikh Maarouf Cemetery, the city’s layered history came alive. We paused first at the Tomb of Junayed Al-Baghdadi, the 9th-century mystic whose teachings still shape the Sufi path of love.

Tomb of the 9th century Sufi saint Junayed Al-Baghdadi in the cemetery

Undeterred, we proceeded, looking for the shrine. We reached the Tomb of Prophet Joshua. A few steps away lay the Tomb of Prophet Joshua, its serenity contrasting sharply with the city’s bustle. Finally, we reached the neglected courtyard near Pir Bahlol’s tomb, where the Shrine of Baba Nanak once stood.

The Tomb of Prophet Joshua

Not far from the site of Baba Nanak’s shrine lies another place of immense spiritual resonance — the Tomb of Prophet Joshua, or Nabi Yusha in Arabic.

The site has been venerated for centuries as the resting place of Joshua, the biblical successor of Moses (Hazrat Musa in Islam). Both the Torah and the Quran mention Joshua (Yusha bin Nun) as a faithful companion and disciple who led the Israelites into the Promised Land after Moses’ passing. Yet, his exact burial place remains uncertain — with several traditions pointing to locations in northern Palestine, Turkey, and Iraq.

While historians differ on the authenticity of this site — as multiple locations across the Middle East claim the same — the Baghdad tomb has been venerated for centuries by pilgrims drawn to its sacred aura.

The Baghdad tomb, enclosed within a domed chamber, bears an aura of antiquity. Its modest structure — simple brickwork, green drapery, and incense smoke curling through the still air — reflects centuries of humble devotion. Over the years, pilgrims from across faiths have visited it: Jews, Muslims, Christians, and Sufis alike, each drawn by the enduring idea of prophetic guidance.

Standing there, I felt the quiet weight of faith layered through millennia — where biblical, Islamic, and Sufi traditions meet. And it struck me how this very city, once a beacon of intellectual and spiritual brilliance, has always been a crossroads of civilisations and belief.

The Lost Gurudwara of Baghdad

Our real quest, however, lay just beyond — the site once home to the Gurudwara commemorating Guru Nanak’s stay. Guided by the caretaker of the Tomb of Joshua, we reached a desolate courtyard beside the Tomb of Pir Bahlol. Here once stood the sacred space where Guru Nanak delivered his discourses — a site later marked by a memorial platform, then a stone slab inscribed with Arabic text. Today, it bore the scars of conflict, looters, and neglect—no visible traces of its Sikh heritage remained.

There used to be a Gurudwara. Nothing remains there now — except a feeling that defies erasure. As I stood with Mehiyar and Mohammed, I imagined Guru Nanak seated under a tree centuries ago, speaking softly of oneness, humility, and truth. The wind that moved through the broken courtyard seemed almost to carry his words.

With Dr. Mehiyar
With Mohammed Al-Samarrae
The tomb of Pir Bahlol and the place where Guru Nanak lived lay as a vacant courtyard

Standing there, amidst the ruins, it was impossible not to feel the poignancy of history. The silence of the courtyard seemed to whisper stories of interfaith dialogue, spiritual wisdom, and the enduring legacy of a man who once walked these streets.

In that space, the lines separating faiths dissolve. The saints of Islam, the prophets of Judaism, and the Gurus of Sikhism converge in silent communion — Baghdad’s forgotten yet living testament to interfaith harmony.

Preserving a Legacy of Unity

Standing amid the ruins and the graveyards, I felt both sorrow and serenity. The silence of the courtyard seemed to whisper stories of spiritual dialogue and shared humanity. Guru Nanak’s message of harmony still resonates in the words of Guru Arjan Dev Ji:

“Naa Ko Bairi, Nahin Bigaana; Sagal Sang Hum Ko Bann Aayi”
I see no stranger, I see no enemy; I look upon all with goodwill.

Even when monuments crumble, the message remains alive. Rebuilding the shrine, or even placing a simple commemorative plaque, could reignite this spirit of unity — reminding future generations of a time when Baghdad was not only the heart of Islamic learning but also a cradle of interfaith understanding.

Reflections

As I stood with Dr. Mehiyar and Mohammed, I felt an unspoken connection — across time, faith, and geography. The proximity of the Tomb of Prophet Joshua only deepened this sense of spiritual convergence. Within this small corner of Baghdad, one finds Judaism, Islam, Sufism, and Sikhism intertwined — a living symbol of humanity’s shared yearning for the divine.

This journey was more than a historical exploration. It was a pilgrimage — a tribute to interfaith dialogue, a call to preserve heritage, and a deeply personal encounter with the timeless teachings of Guru Nanak Dev Ji.

Wahe Guru!

43 thoughts on “Following the Footprints of Guru Nanak Dev Ji in Baghdad: A Journey Beyond Time”

      1. Manjeet Singh's avatar Manjeet Singh

        Very well explained. I am so inspired that I am planning a visit to the shrine early next year. Can you guide me the best way to visit this shrine? Should I connect with Dr. Kathem? Any assistance will be much appreciated.

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        1. Thanks, Manjeet. Dr. Kathem mainly stays in London and visits Iraq for his interests on heritage and resoration purpose. If you can visit Baghdad then you may ask for your local guide or taxi drive to take you to Sheikh Junaid’s tomb. His tomb is well known. You have to make enquiries there to reach the tomb of Pir Bahlol. The area is a graveyard and so you need to be a bit careful to the sentiments of the perople visitng the tombs and the graves. Unfortuately, there is no structure is surviving now except for the floor, where the Guru Nanak Dev spent almost three months. Of course, being there gives the spiritual experience of being at the site where Guru Nanak lived.

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        2. smanjeet7d27ae1e5a's avatar smanjeet7d27ae1e5a

          Thanks for quick reply, Indrajit. Quick question: Is it safe to hire a taxi at Baghdad airport to visit the shrine? Do taxi drivers speak English there? Thanks.Manjeet

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        3. There are airport taxi companies, where you can get pre-paid taxi service. English is not very popular here in Baghdad. If you are lucky, you may find someone who knows English well. If you are staying in a hotel, then they may arrange a taxi for you.

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  4. Nilanjana Moitra's avatar Nilanjana Moitra

    That’s an amazing journey to history. It’s nice to be at a place where many enlightened saints of different faith had their presence.

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  6. ANIL LAMBA's avatar ANIL LAMBA

    And I thought you had forwarded an article on Baba Guru Nanak Dev and his visit to Baghdad with his companions Bala & Mardana which my Dadi recounted in my childhood. I enjoyed the casual style and the informative piece and scrolled down to see the photos and….lo & behold, who do I see? A very familiar fellow standing there posing with a bearded hulk. Arré, ai te sadda Munda ai!!! I looked for the credits and sure enough, it is aapro dhokra! I sorely miss not having gone downtown with you to the legendary pavement book bazaar everybody talks about as a cultural leaning of Iraq. Well done, old hodophile!!

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    1. Haha, what a delightful message! Thank you so much for your warm and witty words — you truly made my day! 😊 I’m glad the story brought back those childhood memories your Dadi shared. And yes, that “familiar fellow” was indeed me — caught in the frame with that “bearded hulk”! The pavement book bazaar is still there, waiting for your visit; it’s an experience you’d absolutely love. Thanks again for your kind words and for joining me on this little hodophilic journey! 🙏🏽

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  13. Manojit's avatar Manojit

    Very informative and well narrated. Perhaps Khuswant Singh also missed to include this visit of Guru Nanak to Baghdad in his book The Sikh. I read it he manuscript but cannot remember it clearly.

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  16. Hebah.T.H's avatar Hebah.T.H

    I read your article on Sikh Guru Nanak Shrine in Baghdad. I object to that. Because it is not possible.

    My article on this objection has been published in Iraq sun News.
    “Fake Shrine of Sikh Guru Nanak Exposed”

    https://www.iraqsun.com/newsr/27176

    I have written a book “Shameful Lies of Taajudin’s Diary” in which the Sikhs have been exposed. According to the Sikhs, Bhlul fell at the feet of Guru nanak and called him Lord and made his shrine. Behlul had Died in 805 AD, then how did he meet with Sikh Guru Nanak around 1511-1520 and built a shrine in 917hijri.

    https://archive.org/details/shamful-lies-of-taajudins-diary-eng-final_202403/Shamful+lies+of+Taajudin's+Diary+eng-final

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    1. You are correct in pointing out the historical inaccuracies that can sometimes occur in stories and accounts, especially when they involve figures who lived in different time periods. It’s essential to approach such narratives with a critical eye and rely on historical evidence whenever possible.

      Regarding Guru Nanak’s potential dialogue with the custodian of the shrine of Dastgir in Baghdad, it’s indeed a possibility, as Guru Nanak is believed to have undertaken extensive travels during his lifetime, including journeys to various parts of the world. However, specific details about such encounters may vary depending on the sources and traditions.

      In Sikh tradition, there are indeed stories and accounts of Guru Nanak’s travels to distant lands, including Baghdad, and his interactions with people of different faiths. These narratives often emphasize Guru Nanak’s message of universal love, understanding, and respect for all human beings, regardless of their religious or cultural background.

      While there may not be concrete historical evidence to confirm every detail of these accounts, they are valued within Sikh tradition for the moral and spiritual teachings they convey. As with any historical or religious narrative, it’s essential to approach them with an open mind and a willingness to explore their deeper meanings and implications.

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  17. Jatinderpal Singh Grewal's avatar Jatinderpal Singh Grewal

    Indrajit, you have put it across to Hebah very nicely – greatly appreciated!

    “As with any historical or religious narrative, it’s essential to approach them with an open mind and a willingness to explore their deeper meanings and implications. “

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  18. DN Chakraborty's avatar DN Chakraborty

    Your blog post is a masterpiece! You’ve woven a captivating narrative that not only explores the historical significance of Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s visit to Baghdad but also beautifully conveys the essence of interfaith dialogue and unity. The way you’ve blended history, spirituality, and personal experience is truly compelling. Your writing is evocative, and I could almost feel the serenity of the Tomb of Prophet Joshua and the poignancy of the lost Gurudwara. The message of Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s teachings shines through your words, leaving a lasting impact on the reader. You’ve done a remarkable job of sharing a forgotten story that deserves to be remembered.

    What struck me most was the way you brought ancient history to life with your vivid descriptions and reflections. Your passion for the subject matter is palpable, and it makes the story even more engaging. The connections you’ve drawn between different faiths and cultures are thought-provoking and beautifully articulated. Congratulations on crafting a piece that not only informs but also inspires and moves the reader!
    🙏🏽🙏🏽

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    1. I sincerely appreciate your kind words and thoughtful recognition. Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s journey to Baghdad serves as a powerful reminder of the enduring message of unity, compassion, and interfaith understanding. Your insights are very meaningful and motivate me to continue uncovering and sharing these overlooked parts of history. 🙏🏽

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  19. futuristicallydelicate3c43f298de's avatar futuristicallydelicate3c43f298de

    Wow — this is powerful. Your journey into Baghdad and the way you interweave history, spirituality, and the legacy of Guru Nanak Dev Ji made me feel the weight of every silent ruin and whispered memory. The article doesn’t just recount a shrine lost to war — it pulses with the urgency of “we must remember.” You’ve taken us into the heart of that courtyard where faiths converge and given voice to the stillness that remains. Kudos for this intense, deeply moving piece.

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    1. I truly appreciate your profoundly reflective words. Baghdad’s complex history — where belief, memory, and sorrow are intertwined — reflects our common humanity. The presence of Guru Nanak Dev Ji there reminds us that, even among ruins, the essence of unity and kindness persists. Your thoughtful response is very meaningful.

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