The Hot Kebabs of Erbil: A Winter Ode from Kurdistan’s Beating Heart

On a chilly winter day in Erbil, nothing warms the soul like a smoky, juicy kebab. From the legendary Yasin’s beneath the Citadel to Farooq Jaafar’s famed skewers on Iskan Street, Erbil’s kebabs are culinary ritual and cultural heritage. Wrapped in fresh naan, topped with sumac onions, and sipped with chilled Mastaw, each bite is a taste of Kurdish warmth.

Qazuan Restaurant: A Kurdish Dastarkhan in the Heart of Erbil

Erbil is a city that combines a rich historical background with contemporary living, exemplified by Qazuan Restaurant, famous for its genuine Kurdish dishes. An impromptu lunch with coworkers turned into a delightful culinary journey featuring tasty meals and a welcoming environment. The traditional ambience added to the experience, enabling a stronger cultural connection. After a short wait, the food exceeded expectations, reflecting Kurdish hospitality. The gathering promoted friendship, creating lasting memories and emphasising the strong ties that food fosters within cultures.

Of Steam, Soul, & Sips: My Journey Through Iraq’s Chai Culture

In Iraq, I discovered that tea is far more than a mere beverage; it's a profound ritual, a sanctuary, and a quiet testament to resilience, much as it is in India. From the timeless charm of Baghdad’s Shabandar Café to the sun-drenched benches near Erbil’s citadel, each sip of tea tells a story. It's a reminder that many of life's deepest lessons, like a perfectly steeped glass, are infused slowly, revealing their wisdom gradually.

Tracing the Echoes of History: Yazidism & Indian Spirituality

Sibaram Das reflects on his visit to Lalish, the holiest site of the Yazidis in Iraq, exploring the interconnectedness of history, migration, and spirituality. He draws parallels between Yazidism and Hinduism, observing shared rituals and beliefs, such as reverence for sacred elements and the cyclical nature of time. His journey raises questions about the origins of faith and the universality of human experiences, leaving him with thoughts on migration and resilience.

The Zanj Rebellion: Impact on Iraq’s Ancient Agriculture

A recent article from The Independent reveals that ancient ridges and canals in Southern Iraq, previously attributed to an agricultural system, were likely built using slave labor, particularly by the enslaved Zanj. This discovery connects their construction to the 9th-century Zanj Rebellion, underscoring the significant but overlooked contributions of enslaved Africans to the region's landscape. The findings challenge existing historical narratives and bring attention to the hidden legacy of these individuals.

A Journey Through Time: Exploring the Citadel of Erbil

On June 5, 2025, I visited Erbil's Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with anticipation to explore its rich history. However, upon arrival, I learned the Citadel was closed for renovations. Despite the disappointment, I found joy capturing views of the Citadel from outside, enjoying the nearby bustling Qaysari Bazaar, and sharing a moment with a small bird at a café. I left with a promise to return and explore its ancient treasures.

A Golden Saturday in Erbil: Kebab, Companionship, & the Kurdish Soul

Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region in Iraq, boasts a rich culinary scene, particularly at Kebab Farouq Jaafar in Iskan, renowned for its delectable kebabs. During a memorable lunch with colleagues, a variety of grilled meats and traditional dishes showcased the restaurant's authenticity. The meal culminated with fragrant Iraqi chai, reinforcing the joy of shared experiences amidst vibrant local culture, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts.

Qazwan & Kunefe: A Sweet Encounter in the Heart of Erbil

In December 2023, I visited Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq, where I experienced its vibrant culture and culinary delights. A special highlight was discovering Qazwan, a traditional Kurdish hot drink made from wild pistachios. Paired with Kunefe, a sweet dessert, it created a memorable dining experience. This evening showcased Kurdish hospitality and rich flavors, revealing the region’s heritage.