Hello everyone! I’m excited to share another travel story from Iraq, this time from the historic and literary heart of Baghdad—Al-Mutanabbi Street. Often called the “Book Market of Baghdad,” this iconic street embodies Iraq’s deep cultural reverence for literature, living up to the saying: “The reader does not steal, and the thief does not read.” Steeped in history, Al-Mutanabbi Street traces its roots back to the Abbasid era, enduring as a symbol of Baghdad’s literary spirit.

Books are truly companions, teachers, and friends, as eloquently described by Charles William Eliot:

Books are the quietest and most constant of friends; they are the most accessible and wisest of counsellors, and the most patient of teachers.

Named after the legendary 10th-century poet Al-Mutanabbi, one of the greatest Arab poets, the street is lined with bookshops, cafes, and galleries. For centuries, it’s been a hub for intellectuals, writers, and artists, who gather to share ideas and inspiration. Al-Mutanabbi Street has withstood the ravages of wars, sanctions, and even bombings, emerging each time as a beacon of resilience and hope.

Situated between al-Rasheed Street and the Tigris River, Al-Mutanabbi Street was founded in the 10th century as Baghdad flourished under the Abbasids. Originally known as Darb Zakha (Zakha Alley), it was later renamed multiple times, ultimately acquiring its present name in the 1930s when King Faisal honored the renowned poet. Professor Muhsin al-Musawi notes that even during the Abbasid period, the street was bustling with scribes and booksellers.

A Legacy of Literacy and Resistance

Iraq has long cherished its literary heritage, with its public education system once being a source of pride in the Arab world. The old saying, “Egyptians write, Lebanese publish, Iraqis read,” captures Baghdad’s reputation as a city of avid readers and intellectual curiosity. Baghdad was the first UNESCO City of Literature in Asia.

One tragic event in the street’s history was the 2007 car bomb attack, which claimed over 30 lives and devastated its vibrant bookselling community. The attack, however, ignited global support for Al-Mutanabbi Street, inspiring artists, poets, and activists worldwide to donate books and funds to help rebuild.

I visited Al-Mutanabbi Street on a Friday morning, the street’s busiest time, with people engrossed in books, sipping tea, and exchanging ideas. One bookseller shared his hopes for a peaceful Iraq where Al-Mutanabbi Street can flourish once more as a place of joy. This street, with its resilience and vitality, left me inspired, humbled, and deeply moved by its story.

The books are generally in Arabic language, and it is difficult to find books in English. I looked at a few books from one of the vendors, who told me stories about his life and his love for books. He said that books are his friends and his teachers and that he hopes to pass on his passion to his children.

Mutanabbi Street has always been a hotbed of dissent. Under the long leadership of Saddam Hussein, anti-government cells published and sold illegal copies of their tracts here under fake names.

The Qishla and Shahbandar Café

There is an Ottoman castle on Mutanabbi Street. The Ottoman Castle of Baghdad was built in the nineteenth century. The castle is known as “Qishla,” meaning fortified site, or more accurately, a military defence building. Having been half destroyed, the Iraqi government has progressed with the structure’s restoration. The initial planning concept incorporated the restoration of the clock tower, now visible from many points within the old city. Later restoration efforts in the surrounding area included its gardens, antique markets, and significant cultural events.

Shabandar Cafe was opened in 1917, at the beginning of the British occupation of Baghdad. From British rule to modern-day Iraq, the cafe has lived through the birth of a nation, the toppling of its monarchy, decades of domination by Saddam Hussein, the drama of the US-led invasion and the bloody chaos that followed.

Shahbandar Cafe is a cozy meeting spot where writers, poets, and artists gather, much like the patrons at Kolkata’s Indian Coffee House.

I left Al Mutanabbi Street feeling inspired and humbled by the people I met and the things I saw. I think that Al Mutanabbi Street is not just a street, but a state of mind. It is a place where people come together to share their ideas, their dreams, and their hopes. It is a place where people resist oppression and violence with creativity and courage. It is a place where people honour their past and look forward to their future.

A Connection Across Borders: Al-Mutanabbi Street and College Street

Visiting Al-Mutanabbi Street brought to mind another beloved book market closer to home: Kolkata’s College Street. Renowned as the “Boi Para” (Neighborhood of Books), College Street, like Al-Mutanabbi Street, has a magnetic pull for book lovers, students, and literary enthusiasts. Named after the educational institutions that line it, including Presidency University and the University of Calcutta, this street is an intellectual treasure trove where you can find rare editions, fresh releases, and almost any book in any language.

The man who does not read has no advantage over the man who cannot read.

Mark Twain

College Street is an eminent centre of Kolkata’s literary crowd. Its name derives from the presence of many colleges and educational institutions, including Presidency University (established in 1817), the University of Calcutta (established in 1857), Medical College & Hospital (established in 1857), Sanskrit College (established in 1824). This book market is regarded as the Mecca of students who are either in search of a lost edition of an academic bestseller or want a new book that has just been released. It’s hard to come out of the market empty-handed.

The College Street is most famous for its small and big bookstores, which gives it the nickname বই পাড়া (Boi Para) or “Neighbourhood of Books”. The street is also dotted with countless very small book kiosks which sell new and old books.

… a half-mile of bookshops and bookstalls spilling over onto the pavement, carrying first editions, pamphlets, paperbacks in every Indian language, with more than a fair smattering of books in and out of print from France, Germany, Russia and England.

An article in the journal Smithsonian described College Street

According to Wikipedia, it is the largest second-hand book market in the world and the largest book market in India and collectively boasts of a collection of almost any title ever sold at Kolkata.

In 2007, College Street was featured among the famous landmarks of India which have made it to Time Magazine’s “Best of Asia” list. The magazine has mentioned:

Thriving beside the rusted tram tracks of College Street in north Kolkata is the boi para, or “neighborhood of books,” offering the largest mass of secondhand volumes in Asia. Generations of Kolkata’s famous writers and revolutionaries have come of age amid its chaos.

Time Magazine

The Indian Coffee House, popularly known as Coffee House, on the College Street is a favourite hang-out place among the students, youth, scholars, editors, artists, and writers. It has been the rendezvous place of many illustrious and notable personalities like Rabindranath Tagore, Subhas Chandra Bose, Satyajit Ray, Manna Dey, Amartya Sen, Mrinal Sen, Shashi Kapoor, Aparna Sen, NK Roy Choudhury, and the list goes on. Many talented geniuses have penned down pieces of lyrics, poems, story scripts or exchanged brimming ideas related to the world of art and culture in this cafeteria.

In 1883, the first session of the Indian National Conference was held at the prestigious Albert Hall of College Street which led to the founding of the Indian National Congress in Bombay in 1885. College Street has been the hub of Political meetings since the 1930s and is witness to many historical political congregations led by iconic Indian leaders like Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. College Street has also witnessed the beginning of the Naxalite Movement in West Bengal.

Parallel Worlds of Literary Passion

Separated by miles but united in spirit, Al-Mutanabbi Street and College Street are remarkable cultural epicenters. They capture the essence of intellectual freedom, where conversations about idealism and revolution blend seamlessly with poetry readings and friendly gatherings over cups of tea. Both streets are tributes to the enduring power of literature and the courage of people who, in the face of adversity, hold fast to their books and dreams.

If you ever have the chance, do visit these extraordinary places. They’ll leave you enriched and inspired, with a renewed faith in the resilience of human creativity and community.