In December 2023, I stepped into the heart of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq—Erbil, its vibrant capital. I’ve travelled extensively for work, often blending business with cultural exploration, but this trip promised something different. Beyond the strategic meetings and professional exchanges, I was chasing a quieter thrill: the taste of something new.

I thought I had an adventurous palate. I’ve sampled street food in Delhi, savoured mezze in Beirut, and indulged in rich stews in Bahrain. But nothing quite prepared me for the culinary revelation that awaited me in Erbil. If there’s one moment etched in my memory, it’s the evening I discovered Qazwan—a traditional Kurdish hot drink—and how it transformed a simple dessert outing into something extraordinary.

A Stroll, a Sweet Discovery, & a Warm Embrace

My love affair with Kunefe began years ago in Baghdad. That first bite—gooey cheese nestled between crisp, syrup-soaked pastry strands—was unforgettable. Kunefe became my comfort dessert, indulgent yet elegant. So naturally, when I arrived in Erbil, I was already anticipating its familiar warmth.

One crisp evening, after a satisfying dinner at our hotel, my friend Mohammed and I decided to take a walk. The city buzzed with life—locals chatting, storefronts glowing, music drifting from nearby cafés. It was the kind of night that invites lingering.

We stumbled upon a cosy, inviting spot: Antepli Kunefe. Our plan was simple—dessert and coffee. But as I scanned the menu, a name caught my eye: Qazwan. I’d heard whispers of this Kurdish drink before, spoken with reverence, but had never tasted it. Something about it called to me.

“I’ve got to try this,” I told Mohammed, who was already eyeing the Kunefe like a man reunited with a long-lost love.

Understanding Qazwan: The Nutty Elixir of Kurdistan

As we waited for our drinks, I decided to ask Mohammed about Qazwan. He explained it with a smile, mentioning that it’s a traditional Kurdish hot drink, especially enjoyed during colder months. The drink’s primary ingredient is wild pistachios, specifically from the Pistacia atlantica tree, which grows in the mountains of Kurdistan. These pistachios are dried and ground into a powder, then boiled with either water or milk, creating a creamy, nutty concoction. Sometimes, a pinch of cardamom or other spices is added to enhance the flavour.

The simplicity of the drink fascinated me. Despite its humble ingredients, it was a drink that encapsulated the spirit of Kurdistan—warm, earthy, and comforting. I was excited to try it, especially since I had always adored pistachios.

The Perfect Duet: Qazwan & Kunefe

Soon, our desserts arrived—Kunefe, golden and glistening, and a steaming cup of Qazwan. My first instinct was to dive straight into the Kunefe, a dessert I already adored. But I held back for a moment and took my first sip of the Qazwan.

The moment the drink hit my lips, I was enveloped in a warmth that was both gentle and satisfying. The pistachio flavour was rich but not overwhelming, with a slight creaminess that lingered on my tongue. It was subtle yet distinctive, like a delicate whisper of the mountains where the pistachios were grown. The drink wasn’t as bold as coffee, but it offered a quiet, persistent warmth that contrasted beautifully with the coolness of the evening air.

Then came the moment for the Kunefe. Oh, Kunefe! If you’ve ever had Kunefe, you know the magic it holds.

As my fork sank into the golden strands, the cheese stretched in that satisfying way, creating a delightful contrast to the crunchy, syrup-soaked pastry. The saltiness of the cheese balanced the intense sweetness of the syrup, and with each bite, I could feel myself sinking deeper into the layers of texture and flavor. The warm, gooey cheese paired so well with the crisp, sugary pastry. It was, without a doubt, the kind of dessert you could never forget.

But this time, with the Qazwan accompanying it, the experience was elevated to an entirely new level. The creamy warmth of the pistachio drink cut through the sweetness of the Kunefe in the most delightful way. Each sip of Qazwan seemed to complement each bite of Kunefe, balancing the rich, syrupy dessert with the nutty, earthy tones of the drink.

A New Favorite: Kunefe Meets Qazwan

That evening, Qazwan and Kunefe became a pairing I won’t soon forget. As someone who had already fallen in love with Kunefe during my time in Baghdad, this new experience was an eye-opener. The pairing of the rich, nutty warmth of Qazwan with the sweet, indulgent Kunefe added a new layer to the dessert that I hadn’t anticipated. It was as if the two elements of Kurdish cuisine had come together to tell a story—a story of comfort, tradition, and the beautiful simplicity of local ingredients.

As we lingered, chatting about everything from food to life in Erbil, I realised that this wasn’t just a meal—it was an experience. Qazwan was not only a drink but a bridge to the heart of Kurdish hospitality, a true reflection of the region’s warmth and generosity. And the Kunefe? Well, it was a dessert that lived up to its reputation, offering a sweet, gooey contrast to the rich and complex flavours of the Qazwan.

A Memorable Evening

Looking back, that evening in Erbil stands out as one of those rare moments where food, culture, and friendship come together to create something unforgettable. Qazwan and Kunefe were more than just delicious—they were a window into the soul of the region. They showed me a side of Kurdistan I hadn’t expected—a place of rich history, strong traditions, and, of course, incredible flavours.

So, if you ever find yourself in Erbil, do yourself a favour—seek out Qazwan and Kunefe. It’s an experience you won’t regret, one that will stay with you long after the last sip and the final bite. Trust me, it’s a journey worth taking.