Tucked away in the lively heart of Erbil, the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, I recently set off on a culinary journey that whisked me straight to the vibrant streets of Cairo. The highlight of this food adventure? Koshary (or Koshari, Kushari), Egypt’s beloved national dish—a vegetarian delight as rich in history as it is in flavour. As I enjoyed this delightful fusion of lentils, rice, pasta, chickpeas, spicy tomato sauce, and crispy fried onions in a charming Erbil eatery, I couldn’t help but marvel at how a dish with Indian roots has evolved into a global favourite, finding a place even in the diverse culinary scene of Iraqi Kurdistan.

Koshary’s story is as layered as its ingredients, revealing a fascinating journey across continents and cultures. While it’s celebrated as Egypt’s national dish, its origins firmly trace back to the Indian subcontinent, specifically to khichri, a humble yet incredibly significant rice and lentil dish.

The very name “Koshary” is a direct linguistic descendant of the Hindi word khichri, a powerful testament to its heritage. Khichri in India is far more than just a meal; it’s a culinary cornerstone, revered for its simplicity, nutritional value, and comforting qualities. It’s often one of the first solid foods given to babies, a go-to for the unwell, and a staple in many households, embodying the essence of wholesome, economic sustenance.

During the British colonial period in the 19th century, a version of khichri made its way to Egypt. British officers and Indian soldiers, part of the colonial administration, brought their culinary traditions with them. This rice and lentil combination was initially a practical, affordable, and nourishing meal for workers, particularly those involved in railway construction and other infrastructure projects.

Over time, Egyptians, with their ingenious culinary spirit, began to make this imported dish their own. They incorporated ingredients readily available and popular in their own cuisine. The most notable additions were pasta, likely introduced through Italian traders who had a strong presence in Egypt, and a vibrant, often fiery, tomato sauce. This transformation slowly but surely birthed the Koshary we know today, a testament to cultural fusion.

Explorer Richard Burton, in his 1853 book Journey to Egypt and the Hijaz, provided an early glimpse of this evolution, describing a version of Koshary served in Suez that already included lentils, rice, butter, onions, and pickled lemons. What began as a simple meal sold from food carts has since grown into a culinary institution, served everywhere from bustling street vendors to upscale restaurants across Egypt—and now, even in places like Erbil.

Erbil, with its rich history stretching back millennia and its increasingly cosmopolitan vibe, is no stranger to diverse cuisines. Walking through the bustling Qaysari Bazaar or the modern eateries near the historic Citadel, you’ll find restaurants serving everything from traditional Kurdish kebabs to Middle Eastern classics. It was in a small, family-run restaurant tucked away in a lively Erbil neighbourhood that I first encountered Koshary. The menu boasted an array of regional dishes, but the mention of Koshary, described as “Egypt’s street food sensation,” immediately caught my eye. Intrigued by its compelling Indian connection and unmistakable Middle Eastern flair, I knew I had to try it. I ordered a bowl, also topped with chicken.

The dish arrived in a vibrant, heaping bowl, a colourful mosaic of textures and aromas. At its core was a base of perfectly cooked lentils, fluffy rice, and tender macaroni noodles, topped with plump chickpeas and a generous pile of golden, crispy fried onions. The pièce de résistance, however, was the vivid red tomato sauce, boldly spiked with a classic Middle Eastern spice blend called Baharat. The phonetic similarity and the historical context of the spice trade strongly suggest a connection in how the Arabic term “Baharat” evolved to refer to spices, linking it to India. A side of potent hot sauce and a small bowl of tangy pickled lemons accompanied the dish, promising an explosion of flavours.

The first spoonful of Koshary was nothing short of revelatory. The lentils and rice provided a hearty, earthy foundation, while the macaroni added a satisfying chew. The chickpeas brought a nutty richness, and the fried onions delivered a delightful crunch that contrasted beautifully with the softer textures beneath. But it was the spicy tomato sauce that truly stole the show—its tangy, fiery kick, infused with the warm, aromatic notes of Baharat (a blend often including cumin, coriander, cinnamon, and sometimes nutmeg or cloves), elevated the dish to new heights. A drizzle of the accompanying hot sauce added an extra layer of heat, perfectly balanced by the bright, zesty pickled lemons.

What makes Koshary so special is its ability to be both comforting and exciting. It’s the kind of dish that feels like a warm hug from a home-cooked meal, yet its bold flavours and dynamic textures keep you coming back for more. In Erbil, where hearty meat dishes often dominate the culinary landscape, this vibrant vegetarian gem stood out as a refreshing, flavorful option that didn’t compromise on satisfaction.

One of Koshary’s greatest strengths is its universal accessibility. In Egypt, it’s a quintessential street food staple, served from humble carts to long lines of eager customers, from labourers seeking a quick bite to office workers on their lunch break. Its affordability and incredibly filling nature make it a go-to for people from all walks of life. In Erbil, I noticed a similar enthusiasm. The restaurant was buzzing with locals and visitors alike, all drawn to the dish’s reputation for being both delicious and budget-friendly. The portion I received was generous, easily enough for a hearty meal, yet it cost only a fraction of what you’d typically pay for other restaurant dishes.

Koshary’s versatility also makes it ideal for large gatherings, from intimate family dinners to grand community events. In Erbil, where communal dining is a cherished tradition, I could easily imagine Koshary being a massive hit at a local festival or conference, its vibrant colours and bold flavours bringing people together around a shared, satisfying meal.

As someone intimately familiar with Indian khichri, I couldn’t help but draw strong parallels between it and Koshary. Both dishes are fundamentally built on the foundation of lentils and rice, designed to be nourishing, economical, and deeply comforting. However, while traditional khichri often leans towards simplicity and can be quite subtle in flavour, Koshary is a bold, multicultural creation that vividly reflects Egypt’s incredible ability to absorb and transform external influences into something uniquely their own. The incorporation of pasta, a nod to Mediterranean culinary traditions, and the distinct Middle Eastern Baharat spice blend gives Koshary a unique identity that transcends its humble Indian origins.

In Erbil, Koshary feels remarkably at home. The city’s culinary scene is a vibrant melting pot of Kurdish, Arab, Turkish, and Persian influences, and Koshary’s harmonious blend of global flavours fits seamlessly into this rich tapestry. As I chatted with the restaurant owner, he shared that Koshary has gained a small but devoted following in Erbil, especially among those who have travelled to Egypt or discovered it through the burgeoning world of Middle Eastern food blogs. For locals, it represents a novel and exciting alternative to traditional dishes, while for visitors like me, it’s a delightful taste of Egypt with an intriguing hint of home.

My Koshary experience in Erbil was a powerful reminder of food’s incredible power to connect cultures and tell compelling stories. From its humble beginnings as an Indian khichri to its celebrated status as Egypt’s national dish, Koshary has travelled far, picking up new flavours, ingredients, and fans along the way. In Erbil, it’s a delightful discovery, a dish that effortlessly bridges the gap between South Asia, the Middle East, and beyond. Whether you’re enjoying it at a bustling street cart in Cairo, a cosy restaurant in Erbil, or even attempting to recreate it in your own kitchen, Koshary stands as a vibrant celebration of simplicity, spice, and shared heritage.

Have you ever tried Koshary, or perhaps a different dish with a surprising cultural journey? Share your thoughts in the comments below!